Home > Maintenance & Modifications > battery top-up / solar power |
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Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414 |
As my Defender also do not get regular use, I made an easy way to keep the battery topped up, albeit not using a solar charger.
Since I already had a fuse box in the battery compartment for the rear working lights, I used a spare connection through the fuse box and routed a piece of wire with a 2 pin connection that I can connect a battery charger to. Something very similar to what cteck have, but dim (do it myself). Just an idea of the connector I use: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3284197192...web201603_ 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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2nd Mar 2021 12:02pm |
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I Like Old Skool Member Since: 23 Feb 2015 Location: Manchester Posts: 809 |
I would put some effort into finding out what is discharging your battery before fitting a solar charger. There should be very little in a G reg 90 that draws power.
My 1994 TDI doesn't do many miles as I usually cycle to work and during the worst of the covid lockdown last summer it wasn't moving for months at a time. When I occasionally thought it might be a good idea to throw the trickle charger on during this period it would flick over to float charging in just a couple of minutes as the battery was already tip-top. The only dormant power draw is the radio memory and apparently that takes a fraction of f'all. |
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2nd Mar 2021 12:44pm |
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Gongladosh Member Since: 26 Jun 2018 Location: Manchester Posts: 12 |
Cheers guys.
What's the best way to track down a power drain? |
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3rd Mar 2021 6:57pm |
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Mike c Member Since: 11 Aug 2017 Location: Maldon, Essex Posts: 928 |
I would recommend an auto electrician. On my first Defender (300tdi) I had a reoccurring flat battery issue that went on for some time, in the end I bit the bullet and got a professional to look at it and they diagnosed the problem very quickly.
It turned out to be an old tracker unit that was guilty, it had a back up battery of it's own that had long since expired and was constantly draining the main battery. Hope you get it sorted. |
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3rd Mar 2021 8:02pm |
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Leamreject Member Since: 19 Dec 2020 Location: Middle Earth - Leamington Spa Posts: 970 |
I just use one of these, it’s the size of an iPad, £11 off eBay and just works.....
Click image to enlarge Ride like you stole it!! If I’m not on a bike it’s because only a 4x4 will do… 2011 2.4 Puma 90 HT |
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3rd Mar 2021 8:18pm |
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BogMonster Member Since: 05 Feb 2008 Location: Stanley Posts: 400 |
Disconnect one of the battery terminals and put an ammeter between the battery post and the terminal - a normal multimeter on the 10 amp range is all you need, though it can be a faff to set it up so you can go off and do other things. One option is to do it on the battery negative and use a couple of hose clips to clamp the multimeter probes onto the battery post and the negative terminal. You'll see if there is a measurable drain. On a vehicle with an alarm/clock etc this is usually of the order of 20ma (0.02 amps). On an older vehicle with no 'sleeping electronics' it could be down to effectively zero. Persistent problems with flat batteries usually result from a drain of 0.1-0.5 amps or more, which is easy to identify. If there is a drain, go through the fuse box and pull the fuses one by one until the drain disappears. When that happens you know what is sucking the juice so work through that circuit and/or replace whatever is on the end of it. If it doesn't disappear after all the fuses have been pulled, it's something that isn't fused, and the most likely culprit in that case would be the alternator, or something else (like the tracker mentioned in an earlier post) which may be connected directly to the battery. A dud alternator regulator can often suck a couple of amps which is more than enough to flatten a battery in a day or two. Remember to disconnect the ammeter before you turn the ignition or any high-load things on otherwise you will hear a pop and quite possibly need a new ammeter. No prizes for guessing how I know that. A solar panel as shown above is a good solution. My father uses them in a couple of vehicles. Just be aware that on some vehicles the cigarette lighter socket is switched with the ignition, which means the ones that plug in there don't work with the ignition off. Depends on the vehicle. --- 2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi |
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6th Mar 2021 11:01am |
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Simon Audi Member Since: 19 Nov 2020 Location: Newport Posts: 544 |
I bought one from Aldi's in one of their specials - I fit it under the sunroof (Vitara) between galss and cover.
The wire runs out and I tapped it to the Overhead Light The Aldi one says - disconnect before driving - but its been hard wired last 3 years with no issue. |
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6th Mar 2021 11:39am |
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Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553 |
I used a cheap solar charger and it cooked my battery. You need to make sure your charger won't do the same.
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6th Mar 2021 8:50pm |
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I Like Old Skool Member Since: 23 Feb 2015 Location: Manchester Posts: 809 |
^^^^This advice is spot on and exactly how I have traced such faults myself in the past (but without blowing up my multimeter ) Funnily enough, like another poster above, the vehicle that I really had a bad problem with was my old Jeep Cherokee that turned out it had some kind of commercial vehicle tracking device fitted from the first company owners. Fine if the vehicle was used regularly but would flatten the battery in 7-10 days. Like ^^he said, idle standing current drain should be 15-20mA or less. Doing the maths suggests a 15mA draw will flatten a fully charged 70Ah battery in around 195 days or approx 6 months! That should be long enough for most of us. |
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6th Mar 2021 9:51pm |
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