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Eduardo

Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Región Metropolitana
Posts: 2110

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey

another alarm question... SOLVED

Hi there,

Today I check the auxiliary fuse box and take out the 20A fuse from the alarm system to check it for around 1-2 minutes. The fuse were OK and I put it again.

After that when I try to start the car sounds 2 honks and start (similar when you have a door open and you activate the alarm). It was during the nigth in the garage so, I didnt take out the car to see if the inmobilizer start (I dont like to bother my neighbors in the middle of the nigth with a crazy alarm).

Question: Can my alarm system has been desconfigurated and the alarm manual code should be introduced?
I ask that because I dont have the code, so if this is the problem I need to call the dealers tomorrow at 1st hour to get the it

Cheers and thanks. Eduardo

MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64'
MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo"

Click image to enlarge

Last edited by Eduardo on 3rd Oct 2011 1:13pm. Edited 1 time in total

3rd Oct 2011 4:52am

Lorryman100

Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

Try a different fob to eliminate the fob battery first. Also check all doors/bonnet are properly closed as this is the most common source for a mislock tone. The 10AS gets its power from more than one source so pulling one fuse will not disable the 10AS unit.
The defender should start as normal with the fob and key as the settings page within the 10AS needs to be re-flashed with new settings to incur changes otherwise the 10AS would need re setting every time the battery was disconnected. The EKA code is really just a get you home solution to losing/inoperable key fob as it allows the vehicle to be mobilized in an emergency and only lasts one ignition cycle.

After checking the doors are closed and a different fob (battery) and it still does it, try a hard reset by disconnecting the battery for 10 mins before reconnecting to see if this clears the issue. Other than that a capable diagnostic tool will allow you to see what faultcodes are stored in the 10AS and give you live data on the sensor voltages allowing you to see what is causing the issue.

HTH Brian.

EDIT: Just reread your post Eduardo and I completely missed the two honks as you started the defender

Was the Alarm dash red light flashing fast (Tamper, as you tampered with the power supply with the ignition off and the immobilizer active)?

3rd Oct 2011 8:57am

Eduardo

Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Región Metropolitana
Posts: 2110

Thanks LorryMan

I didnt paid attention to the alarm lights when I do the test: I will try again in 1-2 hours to see if the inmobilizer is active or not (still early here in Chile to play with alarms)

Also I forgot to said that both FOBs doesnt work...
The car is open, so the alarm is not active.

Cheers Eduardo

MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64'
MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo"

Click image to enlarge

3rd Oct 2011 11:24am

Eduardo

Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Región Metropolitana
Posts: 2110

Lorryman

Just I do the test. The red light are still there when i put the key in the barrel and I move to position 2.
Also the car do 2 honks, cranck and doesnt start.

Cheers Eduardo

MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64'
MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo"

Click image to enlarge

3rd Oct 2011 12:42pm

Eduardo

Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Región Metropolitana
Posts: 2110

another alarm question: Issue Solved...

After the hard reset 10 min battery disconnected all comming to normal.

Thanks Lorry for your help Eduardo

MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64'
MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo"

Click image to enlarge

3rd Oct 2011 1:12pm

Lorryman100

Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

I'm glad I could help.

The one thing to remember about the Lucas 10AS alarm is that it does most of its work with the ignition switched off, this includes communications between it and diagnostic gear. So when you removed the fuse the unit registered it was being tampered with and would not allow the immobilizer to be reset with just the key. I am curious now as the fobs should have reset the unit though by you arming then disarming the alarm? Are the fobs working? Any other issues with the alarm, starting or running issues that could come down to the passive immobilizer?
Though as I mentioned earlier you can always resort to the hard reset to try and resolve any issues by disconnecting the battery for 10mins to allow any stored capacitance in the ignition circuit to drain allowing the unit to reset. You could probably speed this time up by pressing the brake pedal a couple of times as well, though I haven't tested that theory but will add it to my to do list.

Brian.

4th Oct 2011 9:05am

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