 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Tips and tricks to remove an MT82 |
 
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414   
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PS, have also ordered and will be replacing all seals, rear crank, gbox input and output and TC input as a matter of course. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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27th Dec 2020 12:34am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8025  
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I tend to remove both t box and gbox joined together, having removed props and handbrake assembley
The handbrake cable can remain connected both ends, just unbolt back plate and cable tie whole lot up out if way. I use an engine crane through drivers door to take weight and trolley jack to maintain balance of t box . Ie stop it rotating. All bell housing bolts can be reached without taking anything off, ones on top under egr cooler can be fiddly Starter stays on Engine is well balanced, fan is clear of rad. The loom down the side of the gbox needs care to avoid damage. Undo all the clips holding loom to gbox, including crank sensor wire clips on top of box. I would unplug crank sensor too, it can stay in place. Hydraulic side is very simple to unclipped, just make sure you have correct parts to reconnect new slaves. Some slaves have a different fitting. I tend to get the whole lot, slave, t piece, adaptor and bit that goes on end of metal pipe that way I know it all goes together. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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27th Dec 2020 8:20am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414
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Thank you James for the tips.
I will have to take the tbox before the gearbox as I shall be doing it at his place.. I ran out of space at my place, and would need the engine crane at my place. Just to be sure that I understand well, no need to support the engine. It will balance well on the engine mounts when the gearbox is off? Will not tip forward? Or at least not enough to hit the radiator? Yes, indeed I will (always am) very careful around the harness. I am aware of the harness above the Tbox, and side of the gbox. I have also ordered an adaptor and a valve to go with the new release bearing, so I hope the hydraulic department is good as well. May I ask which is the heaviest? Tbox or gearbox? When I removed my Tbox singlehanded, I made an adaptor that attaches to the jack. But I have done tbox without jack, but not singlehanded. I find the lt230 much heavier than an lt77, but no idea for the MT82. At least the latter has aluminum housing. But hope the gears are more substantial. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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27th Dec 2020 11:49am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8025
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Correct, engine will sit there fine with no gbox
Tbox is most ungainly thats for sure and is easier on/off than gbox as you can benchpress it back on. Gbox could well be lighter but being longer is harder to manhandle back on to splines. The spigot bearing is a real pain on them. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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27th Dec 2020 4:59pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372  
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I have always removed the t-box first then the gearbox on a TDCi, I feel it is easier but it is a personal view. Conversely on the Td5 I remove them as a unit, but I do have the proper bracket for bolting the transmission jack to the R380/LT230 assembly (there is no equivalent bracket for the MT82/R380). A further consideration is I feel that you always want to split the MT82 and LT230 to inspect the output adaptor shaft, so it is as easy to split them as you remove them as it is once removed.
In essence removing the MT82 is very straightforward and doesn't take too long. The top bell-housing bolts are a pain if you have big hands, and the transmission cross-member can be stubborn. I have this job to look forward to since I really do need to get round to fitting yet another clutch to mine. |
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27th Dec 2020 8:43pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414
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Thank you gentlemen for your inputs.
I had a look yesterday evening in his engine bay, and looks like most bolts are pretty accessible except the ones under or behind the egr cooler. That was a bit of a relief, as my 2.2 looks a bit less easy to get to the bell housing. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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28th Dec 2020 7:16am |
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| PumaPhil Member Since: 26 Oct 2014 Location: Bridgend Posts: 201  
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I recently had to do mine and as said above it is relatively straightforward. Only point I can add is that you don't need to remove the handbrake assembly if yours is a 90, I believe this is only necessary on a 110 because they have an extra crossmember just behind the transfer box.
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28th Dec 2020 3:40pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414
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Thank you PumaPhil for your input. Yes it is a 90. I have removed tbox without removing handbrake assy, but latest I've done opted to remove for weight reduction. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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28th Dec 2020 6:11pm |
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