 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Transfer box removal instructions |
 
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| Badger110 Member Since: 06 Feb 2018 Location: South hams Posts: 1039   
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memories of 4x2 wood across the seats and ratchet straps slung down and around the box spring to mind when i took mine out the old 200tdi.
They aren't too difficult once you've removed everything attached to them, however you're box is a different beast to the old ones, but the knuckle scrapes and swearing will be the same 
Hopefully someone who has done one recently will be along with pearls of wisdom for you  |
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29th Nov 2020 12:32am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3525  
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Done mine single handed last summer. Did not even lift the Defender off its wheels as need to work from both inside and from below. For the heavy transfer box, made an adapter that bolts to the bottom plate of the transfer box and bolts to a trolley jack.
Here is a summary how I went about to remove it (I might have missed some steps in my list). Oil needs ti be drained. 1. Remove cubby box, and middle seat box cover plate. Also removed transmission tunnel cover. 2. Remove center exhaust box. 3. Remove prop shafts. I decided to remove also from final drive units so that they are not in the way. 4. Remove handbrake drum (this makes handling of the box far easier). Handbrake lever needs to be removed in step 1. 5. Disconnect hi/low and diff lock. 6. Release exhaust temperature sensors and harness from brackets. 7. Undo 5 bolts/ nuts from studs. 8. Slide back and lower to ground. Re assembly is basically same in reverse. I opted to replace 2 of the lower bolts that couple it to the adaptor housing by studs. Those where installed with loctite for a good oil seal. If using the original bolts, then also need to use some seal on the threads. Also note the length if the bolts, as mounting longer bolt in the wrong hole will foul with the intermediate gear. Just be sure that you work safe. The transfer box is damn heavy. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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29th Nov 2020 8:46am |
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| stew 46 Member Since: 26 Jan 2012 Location: Wadebridge ,cornwall . Posts: 561  
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My mobile fitter done mine a few months ago in my unit but only got a few pics of the corroded shaft
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Had to replace the shaft as corroded This had also been done a couple of months before by a garage for it went up for sale and they didn’t replace the shaft !! , but lucky I had 6 months warranty and they covered the cost |
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29th Nov 2020 8:59am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8206  
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I have done 4 in last 12mths on my own at home.
On puma you don't need to take anything out on the top side, just disconnect t box high low linkage, ball joint, push on/off after pulling out locking cap. Diff lock just undo nut on top of box. Do both above once front prop is off for ease of access, other wise follow list as above. Don't put vehicle too high, it further to reach up to do the job and lift t box up/down. I also did mine with wheels on. I just manhandled mine up and down. Used some long studs to aid refitting in correct location. Hsndbrake, leave cable connected , just take drum and then back plate off and cable tie assembly complete up out of way. After prop only 5 bits to undo to achieve this. Its half a days work remove/refit plus any time to fit seals etc. Cheers James 110 2010 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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29th Nov 2020 10:03am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17698 
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When I did my '07 110 I left the propshafts on, just released the t-box end and tied them out of the way, didn't need to do anything to the exhaust, and tied up the handbrake backplate assembly as described above. I left the vehicle on its wheels, and used the genuine LR adaptor to bolt thet-box to a transmission jack. You'll find it helps (but is not essential) to have a set of alignment studs to help refit the t-box to the gearbox without damaging the input shaft seal.
It's really not a difficult job but bear in mind that although it's not very heavy dropping the t-box on any part of you anatomy could cause life-changing injury. |
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29th Nov 2020 10:42am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8206
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its very unbalanced making it awkward but not overly heavy. a bench press up and onto the longer studs to align it works well, or use trolley jack as above.
exhaust, will depend if its a 90/110. 110 one can be worked around easily, middle box can be in the way on a 90. Cheers James 110 2010 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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29th Nov 2020 12:28pm |
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| HTB Member Since: 24 Mar 2013 Location: Surrey Posts: 72 
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Thank you - seals should be here in the next day or so, so I’ll get myself together and try and get it sorted in the next week or so....
H |
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2nd Dec 2020 9:30pm |
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