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22900013A



Member Since: 23 Dec 2010
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 3149

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Keswick Green
Which lamp guards?
I am thinking of getting some lamp guards for my 110, all to easy to smash the rear lenses with a trailer (already done it once) which are the best to get? Genuine seems very expensive, are the aftermarket ones also hinged? I wouldn`t mind a pair for the front as well. Do they all fit the TDCi as some I saw on ebay say "upto 2003" etc.

Any suggestions for a budget solution welcome. 2011 110 USW
1973 Series III 1-Ton
1972 Series III 1-Ton Cherrypicker
1969 IIA 1-Ton
1966 IIA 88"
Post #82019 26th Jul 2011 3:09pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5013

United Kingdom 
I know you won't Dan so a general note - Don't forget not to use steel self tappers, if you do Sad the corrosion on your wing will start instantly Rolling Eyes Big Cry

Use an aluminium rivet or sheath the fasteners with something similar to a plug/raw-plug Thumbs Up
Post #82024 26th Jul 2011 3:27pm
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22900013A



Member Since: 23 Dec 2010
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 3149

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Keswick Green
That was my next question actually, do I have to drill into my bodywork. I`d rather not but looks like I will have no choice. 2011 110 USW
1973 Series III 1-Ton
1972 Series III 1-Ton Cherrypicker
1969 IIA 1-Ton
1966 IIA 88"
Post #82048 26th Jul 2011 5:24pm
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bob neville



Member Since: 30 Apr 2009
Location: Marbella
Posts: 3248

Spain 2001 Defender 90 Td5 SW Epsom Green
I'm sure you have read this already but just in case Thumbs Up

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic1804.html

Bob
Post #82062 26th Jul 2011 6:11pm
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Landy nut



Member Since: 22 Dec 2007
Location: In hiding
Posts: 154

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 PU Epsom Green
For stock type lamp guard, I guarantee you will not beat Rebel 4x4 ever. The quality of their guards is far superior to anything else I have seen out there. The bars are better spaced, thicker, better finished.
Post #82065 26th Jul 2011 6:35pm
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cinstone



Member Since: 29 Nov 2010
Location: Stourbridge
Posts: 375

England 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Keswick Green
Zagato wrote:
I know you won't Dan so a general note - Don't forget not to use steel self tappers, if you do Sad the corrosion on your wing will start instantly Rolling Eyes Big Cry

Use an aluminium rivet or sheath the fasteners with something similar to a plug/raw-plug Thumbs Up


That's just what the stealer did to mine, drill the body and fitted large self tappers! Zinc plated by the looks of things.

Chris. http://shropshirelandrovers.freeforums.org

2015 Defender 90 XS SW & Helen, 1964 IIa. Previously 2012 Defender 90 XS SW & 2008 90 XS SW.

Previous LR's: Michael, my 2008 Defender 90 XS SW.

Machinas oportet intrare non capsicum annuum faveo
Post #82095 27th Jul 2011 5:33am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5013

United Kingdom 
How many ruined wings do you see with bubbling around the screw heads Rolling Eyes Some of these bonding adhesives are extremely strong and are used in modern manufacture for structural purposes! Maybe cut off a screw head and stick it down with the guards so it looks correct, might have to strip the paint off - not sure. Probably going to mess the wing up either way Rolling Eyes

Spend your money on a reversing camera £100-150 to prevent backing into things and aid hitching up, job done and you can also check on your load on the move Thumbs Up No more broken rear lenses and your really not going to need front ones - thin edge of the wedge Dan, you'll be putting chequer plate on next Shocked Laughing
Post #82099 27th Jul 2011 7:00am
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Happyoldgit



Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
The plastic RDX lamp guards that use the existing lens screws will help protect the lamps. Although I've had them on Defenders in the past I've never been that keen on fixing iron grids over the lamps as not only do most of them require drilling holes they get in the way of the spare wheel, the coating comes off them and the slightest nudge against one will push the panel in. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.
Post #82109 27th Jul 2011 8:18am
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JSG



Member Since: 12 Jul 2007
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2412

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Miserableolgit wrote:
The plastic RDX lamp guards that use the existing lens screws will help protect the lamps. Although I've had them on Defenders in the past I've never been that keen on fixing iron grids over the lamps as not only do most of them require drilling holes they get in the way of the spare wheel, the coating comes off them and the slightest nudge against one will push the panel in.


Seconded - I've had the grid type on previous Defenders and removed them as the look rubbish after a while.

The type that use the existing screws are the way forward.

Saying that - replacing a light lens is cheaper than straightening a pushed in rear panel. John

http://www.hampshire4x4response.co.uk

2011 Tdci 110 CSW XS
Post #82137 27th Jul 2011 11:07am
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