 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Steering track rod end replacement. |
 
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5878   
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Will be doing the steering track rod end replacement in the very near future, the rubber bush on the current one (Driver’s side) is toast. It will be a complete part replacement (not just the bush). I’m doing the steering box ball join at the same time. Any top tips? Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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2nd Dec 2020 8:33am |
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| grafty99 Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: North Devon Posts: 4793  
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I'd buy polyurethane ball joint boots from Gwyn Lewis as they won't degrade over time (I switched after the rubber boots on one of mine split after 2 months on a brand new TRE!)
Also I'd consider changing to a discovery drop arm - it will make future ball joint replacements much quicker /easier  2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200 Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton |
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2nd Dec 2020 8:47am |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5878
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Thanks Grafty. This is just to pass the French version of the MOT as I’m importing the DC this month. Next spring I’ll do a full GL upgrade. Just wondered if there were any tricks to getting the old ends off etc. Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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2nd Dec 2020 8:58am |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3650 
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generally a puller, if it dosnt move, place a steel mallet on one side and give the other side a tap with a hammer this will normally release the taper
regards the GL upgrade I can recommend this, I got my bits during their sale and the steering is much better, and the impact of pot holes less significant DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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2nd Dec 2020 9:26am |
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| shropshiredefender Member Since: 05 Jun 2017 Location: Shropshire Posts: 834  
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As above on both counts.
Regarding the hammer method of releasing the TRE taper - by all means start with a tap - if/when that doesn't work increase the blow gradually to the almighty humongous clout usually required 
A proper ball joint splitter is relatively cheap, easy to use, and less likely to cause "self harm". 
Just because you're offended doesn't mean you're right. |
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2nd Dec 2020 12:50pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3467  
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This is a very good video:
1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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2nd Dec 2020 1:23pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17536 
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Many years ago when I, as a youngster, was in the trade, it was indoctrinated into me that the "two hammers" methods was dangerous due to the risk of cracking or damaging the component with the taper. If I had ever used this method, the hammer would probably have been applied to my knuckles. In view of how widespread this practice is, and how rare deaths due to fractured steering components are, I suspect that the danger was exaggerated, but no vehicle of mine is ever going to receive the "two hammers" treatment. Best practice is to use a proper separator like the one illustrated above (not the tapered fork type, which are useless) and if the joint still won't split then tap the separator with the hammer (along the axis of the taper). This has never failed for me. |
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2nd Dec 2020 2:08pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3467
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Suspension/steering components need to be tough. Toughness is the combination of strength and ductility. Ductile metals will not crack easily. If components were made too hard, they may become brittle, and would be dangerous in an accident.
But it could be that the metallurgy in the very early days was high in carbon, and control was not as good, making components less tough. And the good practice was carried on (can read on the metallurgy of the Titanic). Not the case nowadays, although with the high recycling percentage we might be going backwards (I know front axles on later Defenders like to snap in 2)  1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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2nd Dec 2020 7:11pm |
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| Tribord Member Since: 20 Apr 2013 Location: France Posts: 220 
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Are you trying to import before Dec 31st? 
Good luck, I just completed one and it took over 5 months to get the CG! I did need an FFVE cert, although that did not take so long. Hopefully things will start to improve, although I guess there is still a backlog. |
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3rd Dec 2020 3:04pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8149  
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Just use one hammer, quicker, easier than puller and never had any detrimental affects on any i have done. Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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3rd Dec 2020 9:02pm |
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