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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5816   
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285? Nice. Still wondering about what type. Certainly not BFGs, either ST Maxx or current favourite the Pirelli Scorpion ATR+. But I’ve also always liked the Discoverer.....decisions, decisions.... Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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29th Dec 2020 12:41pm |
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| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2168 
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Cant get STMaxx in that size in the EU anymore sadly! Other sizes are very short supply. I ended up going for Toyo Open Country MTs really good on the road for an MT as well Instagram @defender_ventures
Empire Tuning - Agent |
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29th Dec 2020 1:00pm |
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| Joel Member Since: 18 Oct 2020 Location: Rotherham Posts: 76  
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So for the last week or so I have been installing my dual battery system and mud pod
I used 2 lots of 13 core trailer cable so I have plenty of spares for later, terminated one of them for the mud pod full of Carlin switches - not all are used yet, but future plans and all that. I terminated the connection using DT connectors so that it can be removed if necessary to get to the dash etc.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Ignore the swarf, will be hoovered out once I have finished fiddling. For the dual battery, I am using a TMAX system, alongside two Exide marine batteries - they are the spiral cell type, like the optimas. I think I made a mistake ordering as I ended up with both screw terminals and normal posts. However the screw terminals are much easier, there isn’t much room in the battery box, so every spare bit counts! Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I took apart the tmax and used some shallow head bolts to fix it to the dash: Click image to enlarge I am using 3 busbars, 1 for all the -ve terminals, and one each for the +ve for each battery. I need to figure out some kind of cover for the +ve busbars, but I have some 3mm acrylic that I am going to bend up and make something. The two metal brackets will be for the aux fuse box, they are temp, I am having something better made up at work, but will do for now. I also added a bar at the back of the box that I can house relays on - it’s tight, but maximising space. Click image to enlarge Still some tidying to do, there isn’t a lot of space, but it’s just enough. Not as neat as some on here, but it will do the trick for now. |
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29th Dec 2020 9:31pm |
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| Joel Member Since: 18 Oct 2020 Location: Rotherham Posts: 76
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I think I am going to ditch it, it looks like it needs too many bits, and I am not a fan of the air con grill if I am honest. |
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29th Dec 2020 9:33pm |
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| VVS210 Member Since: 12 Nov 2016 Location: Hampshire Posts: 953
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If you put the VIN number into this website it will give you the full build spec of the original vehicle, including whether it had air con or not 👍 Www.vindecoderz.com |
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30th Dec 2020 10:13am |
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| Joel Member Since: 18 Oct 2020 Location: Rotherham Posts: 76
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Ok, so the dual battery system and aux fusebox is in, but I’m not really happy with the install, I’ve tried to cram everything into the battery box
Click image to enlarge It’s just a PITA trying to route cables, and a bit of a nightmare getting the batteries in or out. So after some swearing I have ordered a mudstuff cubby locker and am going to house the fuse box and relays in there. I also need to get some better terminal covers. These are PVC and just split if the terminal needs any kind of wiggling to get on, going to see if rubber ones are more pliable. |
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3rd Jan 2021 4:09pm |
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| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2168
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Nice. Thats exactly what I did, Mud cubby locker, aux fuse box inside. Much neater solution.
Id suggest backing the seatbox lid with rubber, the batteries I fit *just* fit and where almost touching the top! So best avoid any jssues. Instagram @defender_ventures Empire Tuning - Agent |
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3rd Jan 2021 4:32pm |
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| Joel Member Since: 18 Oct 2020 Location: Rotherham Posts: 76
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Thanks,
How did you route the cables? Did you go via the transmission lid piece straight in, or did you go via the bit next to the seat? Just conscious of being able to get the lid up if I need to. |
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3rd Jan 2021 5:06pm |
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| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2168
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Ran battery cable for the fuse box out the right side of the seatbox, the up into the cubby box.
Cables from the cubby run down the transmission tunnel and up the center console for switches. Instagram @defender_ventures Empire Tuning - Agent |
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3rd Jan 2021 5:26pm |
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| Joel Member Since: 18 Oct 2020 Location: Rotherham Posts: 76
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Ok, so I've not really done much to her for a while.
Took her for a service / MOT at a Landrover specialist who I won't name yet for reasons that will become clear. Spent about 2k with them in may, and had: New Steering Arm + Ball Joint New Swivel housing and bearing New passenger front door latch and actuator New Striker New front to rear brake pipes New diff pinion oil seal New exhaust manifold (inc drilling out old broken studs) New fan belt tensioner and idler New fan belt New crank pulley damper New LOF clutch cylinder and spring Full service and a few other smaller bits that needed doing. Done about 1200 miles since then. Last weekend at a event I was at with our 4x4 Response group, I noticed that the front driver side was making a noise, and I could feel a pulsing though the brake pedal, as well as a slight drag at low speed. Figured it was just a warped disk, they were on the list to replace anyway. Order a new set of the terrafima gooved / drilled disks and pads. Strips off the wheel, spacer, final drive flange. Left with the hub nut - one of the TD5 style nuts. Could I get the thing off - nah. I had impact gun on it, and my air gun, and a breaker bar with a scaffold tube on it, wouldn't budge. It seems that basically it had wound itself up as tight as it could go, and having removed the calliper, it seems that the bearing was basically being crushed. On inspection, it seems that whoever did the bearing / swivel at the garage, neglected to flatten the ring on the TD5 nut, or they reused the nut, as it looks like its not new, so its wound itself up tighter than a Yorkshireman at casino. I ended dropping £200 on a Makita DTW1001Z Impact wrench, which is the biggest 18v impact wrench they do. That managed to get the nut off with that coupled with some more swearing. The bearing was cooked, the grease was like jelly. Luckily the stub axle wasn't damaged. It also looked like they used el-cheapo bearings. I haven't spoken to the garage yet, but I was royally  off. I know mistakes happen, but it could have been a lot worse, especially as we are heading to Cornwall in a couple of weeks.
I've also found the mud shield was rotted though at where it bolts on on via the steering stop bolts. Nut came off ok, but luckily enough Landrover bolts are made of cheese, so that just snapped the head off the bolt so ended up welding a nut to the end and mole gripping it off. That and the calliper pistons are all rusted. So now I have ordered: New bearing kit Set of Galvanised mud shields LOF Brake callipers with Stainless pistons New set of bolts for the steering stops Great fun..... |
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24th Aug 2021 1:04pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10756 
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Sorry to hear about your problems
 hopefully you will get it sorted in time ready for your trip down to Cornwall  1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.
Keeper. Clayton. |
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27th Aug 2021 8:49pm |
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| Joel Member Since: 18 Oct 2020 Location: Rotherham Posts: 76
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Been a long time since I added anything, I keep forgetting to add what I have done.
Since the last post I have added dual odyssey batteries and significantly tided up the battery box Devon 4x4 TD5 winch bumper and Goodwinch TDS-12c with bow motor 2 In Jan I ordered a stage 1 r380 with a V8 5th gear and stage 2 lt230 from Winchester Gears, I cannot recommend them enough they were super helpful with advice on what I was looking for. Finally got them fitted along with a LOF power spec clutch. Also ended up having the rear cylinder head core plug replaced as it had filled the bell housing with water😮 One thing with the LOF kit that I didn’t know, more of a fyi, you cannot fit a new LOF clutch if you have either their power master of power slave, which is a bit of pain as now I have to live with a heavy clutch for 5000 miles. Oh, and a Clifford alarm and optimill steering boss and swivel lock |
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21st Apr 2022 4:55pm |
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| Joel Member Since: 18 Oct 2020 Location: Rotherham Posts: 76
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So, after chasing an oil leak for some time, and found it was also part diesel leak.
Turned out that someone prior to me had tried to replace the fuel pressure regulator at some point, and ended up cross threading the bolt, and rather than just take the head off and repair it properly, they decided to try and helicoil it. Resulting in the helicoil not being straight. Took the head off, only to find that half of the rockers had helicoils in, and the head had been skimmed to within and inch of its life. So, new head, bolts, gasket, pressure regulator and the best part of 2k later the leak is mostly fixed, also had to change out the alternator as that had been going squiffy for a while. Also now replaced the steering damper which has stopped my 50mph death wobble. |
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9th May 2023 2:14pm |
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| Joel Member Since: 18 Oct 2020 Location: Rotherham Posts: 76
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Audio Upgrades:
Besides the previous issues, I have installed an Alpine PWD-5X 4 channel amp and Sub behind the rear seats - I was looking at the focal 2.1 but I managed to get a deal on the Alpine, along with a set of alpine 10cm speakers for the front and a set of 6.5" speakers for the rear headlining I can highly recommend the alpine unit, sounds excellent. I've also bought a new head unit, it's a 9" Teyes unit that came highly recommended, Android based but supports wireless CarPlay etc. Also bought the TPMS unit and front and rear cameras that work with it. Was about £380 all in but its a good unit, perfect size to fit in the defender - there is a 10" version also, but glad I didn't go for that. Click image to enlarge Unfortunately it came with no bracket for a double din, so I ended up making my own, 3D printed in ABS plastic. Took a couple of attempts but fits nicely now Click image to enlarge The MUD console I have seems to be a slightly smaller size than a standard DIN cage so I 3d printed one to fit, snaps into place. Unfortunately it requires taking the dash out to get behind but its only a 10 minute job to do anyway so I figured its not an issue [/img] |
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9th May 2023 2:25pm |
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