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Gasket

Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

2.4 90CSW known 'design flaws'?

Hi folks.

3 months into Defender ownership and loving it. With a background in Series Land Rovers, its been a new experience driving something that's a mixture of old and new.

I've been progressively knocking-off any snags on the list, taking the opportunity to incorporate improvements where possible and am planning the works to come. I'm aiming for an OEM-plus spec on my 90CSW and have been looking to address any known flaws in the original design as part of that. So I was hoping the forum could help me put a list of known issues and fixes together so that I can incorporate them as part of the refurbishment works.

Once I've got a solid baseline, I'll be moving onto expedition prep prior to a few planned trips through Scandinavia and down to N.Africa. But for now, I'm just looking to identify and where possible address the known issues.

The vehicle is a 2010 90 CSW 2.4.

So far, from scouring the forum - this is what I've come up with. If anyone has any additions then I'll keep the list up to date:

1) clutch plate - known issues in Genuine, OEM and alternative plates around springs working loose. FIX: Clutchfix HD kit, LOF Clutch kit or Transit 4x4 kit - all with the later 2.2-spec concentric release bearing.

Status: Done. Cluchfix HD kit fitted.

2) output shaft - lack of adequate lubrication leading to corrosion and fretting. FIX: regular replacement using genuine parts and proper grease, Ashcroft output shaft kit or LOF output shaft kit.

Status: Done. Ashcroft output shaft kit fitted

3) 2-piece rear half shafts. 2 piece factor design fitted to all but late Pumas can be susceptible to fretting and wear - leading to a discernible 'clunk' on taking up drive. FIX: replace with later-spec one-piece halfshafts.

Status: Done. One piece rear halfshafts fitted.

4) multiple skin footwells and additional bracketry spot welded onto footwells leading to moisture traps and corrosion. FIX: either treatment with rust preventative or fully seam seal skins or replace with single-skin footwells.

Status: Done. Footwells stripped to bare metal, brackets reattached using plenty of weld-through primer and fully seam sealed before respray in 2-pack factory paint and bod-coloured stonechip.

5) Inadequate rustproofing from factory. Either inadequate or poorly-maintained rust proofing treatment leading to chassis and bulkhead corrosion. FIX: regular cleaning and treatment with Dinitrol or similar - DIY or Professional.

Status: About to be done - booked in with Zagato for the works inc. factory water ingress/bodywork treatment.

6) Lighter gauge steel used for rear crossmember and design incorporating water traps. Odd bowing to crossmember in some vehicles due to welding distortion from factory. Crossmember prone to corrosion and limited ability to directly affix rear recovery point without additional bracing or use of towing pintle. FIX: regular rustproofing and either adding additional bracing for recovery point/use of modified jate rings or replace whole crossmember with Dixon Fabrications/Black-sheep-type upgraded unit which is stronger with reduced water traps.

Status: Not yet done, but plan to have a Dixon Fabrications HD rear crossmember fitted (the old one is a bit scabby anyway) which will incorporate a pair of recovery points.

7) Lighter gauge steel used for front bumper. Can distort on light impact risking damage to wings. FIX: fit uprated bumper made from thicker steel.

Status: a lower priority, but ordering one from Dixon Fabrications at same time as rear crossmember and will incorporate a pair of recovery eyes at the same time.

8 ) Rear door not staying open. Its annoying and limits its use when fitting a door shelf for cookers/etc. FIX: any simple door stay or a gas-strut kit.

Status: not done - very low priority but plan on fitting a gas strut kit similar to the DA1203 kit (or may make it myself, as it seems expensive for what it is.

9) security. A thread in itself, but the alarm sounder location and bonnet access are key. Not planning to go into this here. FIX: See LRD Security or similar websites and add multiple layers of security.

Status: Done.

I'm sure there's a lot of other things - would anyone care to contribute?

6th Oct 2020 10:14pm

Pacha

Member Since: 23 Feb 2020
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 772

2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey

Axle reinforcement issue:-

https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic60413-540.html

As a starter for (another) 10..

Rgds.

Chris

6th Oct 2020 10:44pm

Zed

Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: In the woods
Posts: 3294

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black

A couple of cheap fixes:
Headlight loom (Boomslang, Landreiziger etc.) to protect switch from melting.
X Trouser door strikers to stop ripping belt loops. WARNING.
This post may contain sarcasm.

6th Oct 2020 11:04pm

Pacha

Member Since: 23 Feb 2020
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 772

Spare wheel carrier. Rgds.

Chris

6th Oct 2020 11:10pm

williamthedog

Member Since: 29 Dec 2012
Location: south wales
Posts: 3441

Remap.... Shut off egr valve.

7th Oct 2020 3:25am

LR90XS2011

Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3641

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green

front diff is 2 gear type can cause catastrophic loss of control if gives up the ghost unexpectedly,
some prop shafts have difficult to reach or no grease nipples leading to lack of servicing and premature wear
front drive flange splines ungreased leading to wear
some vehicles had a recall for seat belt mounts DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy

7th Oct 2020 5:24am

ozzie1989

Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey

Just a warning on Dixon Fabrication. They are very good with metal work but poor at painting. The front bumper I purchased from them lasted all of 3 months before paint started peeling and rust appeared.

I'd perhaps ask if you can buy the product bare (at a slight discount) and do the coating in a product of your choice. Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)

7th Oct 2020 6:59am

DSC-off

Member Since: 16 Oct 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 1411

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green

A few more,
Corrosion of windscreen frame due to poor painting at the factory.

Corrosion of windscreen to bulkhead blocks, again due to poor painting at the factory.

Inadequate windscreen washer system.

One for 110 owners, rear wings tearing at mud flap mounting points. Thinner material used in later body, with no reinforcements to compensate.

This is quickly becoming "101 things you should know before buying a Puma Defender"

7th Oct 2020 5:35pm

seriesonenut

Member Since: 19 Nov 2014
Location: Essex
Posts: 1211

101 things will not be enough.....

but I still love them all!! 2010 XS USW
1957 Series One 88 diesel
1958 Series One 88 4x2

7th Oct 2020 5:40pm

Clemmo

Member Since: 03 Aug 2012
Location: Mile Oak
Posts: 1218

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey

With regards to point 7

Don’t overkill bumper strength. You want the bumper to give and bend.
If it doesn’t you will transfer the damage to the chassis leg....
Don’t ask me how I know

Clemmo

Make today a little better than yesterday but not so good as tomorrow....
Defender 90 HT............Pangea Green
BMW X3 Msport............Carbon Black
Mini Electric................Grey. (wow!)
MGB Roadster……..........Vermillion 17k miles
Honda Benly CD200....Maroon --------McLouis Fusio........7.4m of fun

7th Oct 2020 7:31pm

MatLandy

Member Since: 11 Sep 2020
Location: Paris
Posts: 184

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver

A few others that I experienced:
- Heater Matrix: when using the heater in winter, mine is blowing much warmer air on the left side than on the right side. To the point that on very cold days there are 2 choices, either I'm cooking and the passenger is ok, or I'm ok and the passenger is freezing. If you have this issue, you may want to search for service bulletin SSM39653 and apply the JLR fix if you happen to drop the dash for some reason and have access to the infamous heater matrix.
- Fuel tank filler hose: mine perished and cracked, spilling fuel after filling up and driving around corners. Just check the state of yours before it gets bad by visual inspection under the wheel arch. As mine is a 110 I got rid of this part and used it as an excuse to install a long range tank in the rear right arch.
- Security : you said you had it done, good. Have you checked that you do have the volumetric sensor installed above the B post (UK driver side)? If not you can retrofit one easily as the wiring loom and connector should normally be there waiting under the headliner. I did that using an old sensor from ebay.
- Turbo/intercooler/inlet manifold hoses : depending on how nicely it was installed and routed at factory in yours, it may be rubbing against bolts or other components in the engine bay, and one day or the other you'll get a hole or cut that will force the car in limp mode. Check your hoses and replace with new proactively if needed.

/Mat

8th Oct 2020 11:11am

Gasket

Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

Thanks guys - this is a superb list. I'll factor in each point as I'm running through the snags and maintenance jobs on the 90.

13th Oct 2020 5:50pm

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2010

If going for a front bumper. Look at uproar 4x4. Superb bumpers, not cheap, but really good . And for belt and braces wax coat rear and underside of the bumper.

Oh and if you want to see in the dark. JW Speaker headlights

13th Oct 2020 6:47pm

Fabio

Member Since: 05 Aug 2011
Location: Somerset
Posts: 589

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black

Nakatanenga fan spacer and a thermostat that opens at 82 degrees and not the 88 that it comes with.
Otherwise you will struggle in hot countries/temperatures.
I have only put on mine the spacer and it is better but the thermostat is also important.

Fabio

14th Oct 2020 5:06am

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