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steve E



Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Tenby
Posts: 2073

Wales 
C pillar replacement at body shop
Hi all
I need to replace the 45 degree C pillars on my rear seats tub
Has anyone had it done by a body shop or should I go YouTube and have a go.
Just would like to know prices paid for this work.
Many thanks
Steve
Post #849613 12th Aug 2020 7:06pm
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Mdm



Member Since: 11 Sep 2013
Location: Sunny Lancashire
Posts: 1589

United Kingdom 
its not a 5 min job you need to remove a fair bit and its structural so needs welding.

doesn't need a body shop unless they know land rovers but most good lr workshops would take it on.
Post #849615 12th Aug 2020 7:11pm
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steve E



Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Tenby
Posts: 2073

Wales 
Thanks Mdm
Just wondering what the average price was.
Going to get it done and the rear seat belt brackets replaced while it’s being done.
If it’s like 3k or something stupid I’d buy the gear and go all in myself lol.
Post #849621 12th Aug 2020 7:43pm
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Mdm



Member Since: 11 Sep 2013
Location: Sunny Lancashire
Posts: 1589

United Kingdom 
to be fair it all depends on how bad the rest of it is on this one we had to do the cross member as well and pact the holes in the tub where the seats bolt thru the alloy

yrm panels have some good how to videos as well as parts


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


here how we went
Post #849635 12th Aug 2020 8:35pm
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Mdm



Member Since: 11 Sep 2013
Location: Sunny Lancashire
Posts: 1589

United Kingdom 
all new yrm bits and new end caps plus a few fabricated repair panels
Post #849637 12th Aug 2020 8:36pm
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steve E



Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Tenby
Posts: 2073

Wales 
That’s looks awesome.
Wish I had the skill set.
My floor panel and surrounds look ok.
Seat and seat belt bracket need replacing.
Post #849645 12th Aug 2020 9:10pm
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Will@LRW



Member Since: 04 May 2019
Location: UK
Posts: 177

 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
I did the whole B/C post frame on both sides recently. It's a very involved job. Although doing the C posts alone wouldn't be so hard if you know how to weld

 LR Workshop
Find a Defender's history and spec: https://defender.lrworkshop.com
Post #849647 12th Aug 2020 9:11pm
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steve E



Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Tenby
Posts: 2073

Wales 
Great video.
With the non alignment issues I think I’ll need to get this done by a professional as I’ll be there forever trying to do it.
Thumbs Up
Post #849682 13th Aug 2020 8:20am
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Jim_Bean



Member Since: 10 May 2011
Location: Staffordshire / Shropshire border
Posts: 613

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
I had mine recently done by Alpine Restorations in Halifax.

Used galvanised replacement parts from YRM. Mine is a MY2013 and the B and C pillars were rusted through.

Alpine did an awesome job. Thumbs Up



Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge
Post #849914 14th Aug 2020 9:47am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17344

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I can't help but think it would be handy if someone (YRM?) produced a version with the B and C posts bolted to the sill, rather than welded. It would be easier to fit and more adjustable, and could be made just as strong as the original.

I hadn't realised until watching Will's videos that there is no sealing of any kind between the side of the rear seat box and the bottom of the C post (below the little bracket that rusts first).
Post #849920 14th Aug 2020 11:25am
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steve E



Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Tenby
Posts: 2073

Wales 
It does look a bit beyond my normal tinkering abilities.
A good bolt on bolt off part would be great Blackwolf 👍
Post #849975 14th Aug 2020 4:58pm
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familymad



Member Since: 13 Dec 2011
Location: Bucks
Posts: 3481

 2016 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Santorini Black
Jim_Bean wrote:
I had mine recently done by Alpine Restorations in Halifax.

Used galvanised replacement parts from YRM. Mine is a MY2013 and the B and C pillars were rusted through.

Alpine did an awesome job. Thumbs Up



Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge


Bonkers the amount of rot on a 2013 vehicle 1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI
1995 90 300TDI
Post #850004 14th Aug 2020 7:25pm
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VVS210



Member Since: 12 Nov 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 953

United Kingdom 
Not used them myself, no longer have a Defender (replaced it with a V8 Discovery 2 Very Happy ), but a friend of mine used Alpine recently to fit a galvanised bulkhead to his 110 & was very impressed with them & particularly the way they took time & effort to sort things out properly rather than just bodge it so it looked right. He said their communication was great, explaining the issues they'd found & how long it'd take to sort them out, & is going to use them for other work in the future as & when needed, e.g. galvanised chassis replacement. That's no small undertaking given he lives down in Weymouth which isn't exactly close to them!

As far as the replacement goes, I'd definitely say go with a pair of galvanised units. While they're doing it it's probably worth getting the cross member that's under there replaced with a galvanised one too.
Post #853081 30th Aug 2020 10:11am
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familymad



Member Since: 13 Dec 2011
Location: Bucks
Posts: 3481

 2016 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Santorini Black
Reminds you why it’s best to close your eyes and assume the hedgehog 🦔 shape when an impending side impact about to occur .... 1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI
1995 90 300TDI
Post #853083 30th Aug 2020 10:15am
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familymad



Member Since: 13 Dec 2011
Location: Bucks
Posts: 3481

 2016 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Santorini Black
Jim_Bean wrote:
I had mine recently done by Alpine Restorations in Halifax.

Used galvanised replacement parts from YRM. Mine is a MY2013 and the B and C pillars were rusted through.

Alpine did an awesome job. Thumbs Up



Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge


How much did they charge all in? 1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI
1995 90 300TDI
Post #855576 12th Sep 2020 5:43am
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