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Charlie_79

Member Since: 12 May 2017
Location: england
Posts: 5

Defender TD5 hub nut torque

hi everyone, yesterday i replaced my drivers side swivel ball joint, cv, joint, stub axle, and wheel bearings, when taking it all apart i noticed that the hub nut (i have the new design with only 1 nut not 2) was only just tighter than finger tight at the time i just carried on going with what i had to do but then once i had fitted all the new parts and came to putting a new hub nut back on i could only torque it up to about 60nm without it tightening the wheel bearing far too much and making it not move freely, i looked at my manual and it says it should be something like 240nm i think !, does anyone know whats going wrong and why i can't tighten it up properly ?

any advice would be very helpful

charlie

22nd May 2017 7:03am

miker

Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1764

Has the spacer gone missing? There should be a spacer between the 2 bearings. This takes the torque of the nut, rather than the bearing.

If the spacer is missing, the wrong size, or non genuine bearings have been used with differences in tolerances, that could cause the issue you're having.

The single nut you have, is it a stake nut, with the collar to hammer flat to retain it?

22nd May 2017 7:43am

Charlie_79

Member Since: 12 May 2017
Location: england
Posts: 5

thanks for the reply, the spacer has been put in there, yes its a stake nut with the collar that you push down,

22nd May 2017 7:49am

miker

Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1764

Are you using timken bearings?

Most of the time you can reuse the spacer as the tolerances are close enough, the different size spacers are mostly to take up variances in the original hub casting.

You can either try and source the correct hub spacer, or probably much easier to just get the parts to convert to the 2 nut setup!

22nd May 2017 7:51am

miker

Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1764

I'd also take the time to check the other three with a view to replacing hub nuts there. If someone has left one corner like this then the others may be the same!

22nd May 2017 7:53am

dorsetsmith

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

Click image to enlarge

item 30 shod read Move HUB assembly in and out noting dial gage reading

Click image to enlarge

Last edited by dorsetsmith on 22nd May 2017 8:54am. Edited 1 time in total

22nd May 2017 8:12am

Charlie_79

Member Since: 12 May 2017
Location: england
Posts: 5

i think your right, i may just switch to the old style where i take the spacer in the middle out and just put the bearing back in and use 2 locking nuts. seems like an a lot easier way to do it.

also i am using britpart bearings

22nd May 2017 8:30am

dorsetsmith

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

have used LR timken bearings and timken bearings from them with stake nut and have not problems 70.000 mile and still going strong

used none branded bearings and the only way set then up by using 2 nut setup as the tolerances tuned out to be out

but this is on trailer LR hubs only

22nd May 2017 8:47am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17470

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

If you have to replace the wheel-bearings, the hub, or the stub axle then it is generally easier to convert to the earlier, two-nut-and-no-spacer, arrangement. In your case it is clear that the spacer currently fitted is unsuitable for the bearings and you need a thicker spacer.

If you have replaced the bearings and used OEM bearings (Timken), then there is a reasonable probability that the original spacer will correct, since quality bearings are manufactured to extremely tight tolerance. If you use bearing from a different manufacturer, especially 'cheap' bearings from the far East, then it is most unlikely that the spacer will be correct and indeed you may find that none of the available spacers are correct. In this case then your only option is the two-nut-no-spacer set-up.

The good thing is that there are really no downsides to converting to the earlier set-up.

22nd May 2017 8:55am

MalteseRover

Member Since: 02 Jul 2013
Location: Gozo
Posts: 137

Hello,

Dumb question but do you need to replace the complete stub assembly in order to revert to old two nut assembly or it is just a matter of sourcing two nuts and tab washer?

Thanks.
Joseph

PS: Will a loose wheel bearing likely cause death wobble too? (the play is minimal but can feel it)

25th Sep 2020 5:51pm

bodstruck

Member Since: 09 May 2020
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 933

Just need 2 nuts and a lock washer.

25th Sep 2020 6:34pm

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