 | Home > Technical > Chassis Swap and Rebuild Process |
 
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| RTTDefender Member Since: 28 Aug 2020 Location: Enniskillen Posts: 6  
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Hi,
I have a 2001 TD5 which was a pickup, now a 90 SW base. The chassis is now rotten and I want to replace this. Repair the seals to the steering and anything else mechanical. I have the place to do this. Fork lift and car lift to hand. I can strip most things and rebuild and replace parts but a complete chassis swap and all the bolts, washers and nuts I am not familar with. Is there amyone who can direct me to a guide and parts needed for a complete swap. I would like to replace all bolts etc! Also I have no rear roof liners, alphine windows in the roof which I believe need to be done. She has side seats (7 seater) which I am happy to leave as is. But I do want to have rear wiper setup as this is missing and de-mister! Which is the best chassis to buy as well. She has 130k on the clock and is running really well. Any advise to keep this engine running well let me know too! She peedles rain in through the top of the doors onto the floor! What can the issue be to stop this happening. regards Richard |
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1st Sep 2020 3:52pm |
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| RTTDefender Member Since: 28 Aug 2020 Location: Enniskillen Posts: 6
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 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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1st Sep 2020 4:36pm |
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| CarMan Member Since: 29 Nov 2010 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 1861
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Great looking truck - nice one
 Rob
1993 200tdi 90 hard-top 1998 300tdi 90 soft-top 2016 2.2 XS 90 hard-top (sold) |
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1st Sep 2020 5:28pm |
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| Lwb97 Member Since: 10 Sep 2015 Location: Powys Posts: 75  
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Marsland are a better fitting chassis then the Richards without a doubt. The marsland are a genuine chassis so the fit is spot on every time and also have the correct chassis rails. The Richards are cheaper and fit is okay although the last one I fitted the tub was sitting to high on the chassis causing door alignment issues. Don’t bother with shielder as never heard a good word about them. Can’t comment on an XD chassis but will be trying one very shortly as heard good things.
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1st Sep 2020 7:18pm |
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| strang Member Since: 16 May 2012 Location: Happy Valley Posts: 1380 
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This has just been posted on the Series Two club forum - spot the deliberate mistake. Richards may have some QC issues
Click image to enlarge Euro-Leafing to infinity and beyond..... |
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1st Sep 2020 7:24pm |
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| Oldowner Member Since: 26 Dec 2018 Location: South west Posts: 623 
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I have had ten or so Richards chassis, A couple of series ones had major issues back when they were first starting out - missing body mounts etc, and I had a 110 one for a Hicap five or six years ago which the tub never sat right on it either, the Hicap tub was too high at the back to get it parallel with the rest of the body. All the 90 ones I’ve had have more recently been good however with no alignment issues, and I’m a stickler for correct door shuts and barrel side lines. I bought a Puma 90 chassis from Richards two years ago but have yet to fit it to my Puma (this winters job) My father has a Marslands one on his 2012 90CSW, (was done under insurance as a replacement after a crash) I didn’t fit it, but it seems very good and alignment is bang on as to be expected. |
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1st Sep 2020 7:53pm |
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| RTTDefender Member Since: 28 Aug 2020 Location: Enniskillen Posts: 6
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Well, thats good to know!
Can anyone recommend where I can get good detail of the replacement parts I would need for chassis swap. How best to take it apart either complete lift or remove in bits. It is going to get resprayed as well. regards Richard |
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2nd Sep 2020 8:18am |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039  
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Remember it will double your budget and you need 3 times as much time as you planned, Or was it the other way around.
My first rebuild toke some time. The strip down was done in a day build the rebuild took 3 years. Partly because making and getting my first child and building a house didn't speed things up. Take it apart completely as then you know you don't bend anything. You will see more parts that you want to be replaced if everything is apart. Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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2nd Sep 2020 5:37pm |
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| Nidge Member Since: 27 Jan 2008 Location: Kildare Ireland Posts: 818  
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Richard... Wills web site is a great place for parts reference, prices etc. -https://www.lrworkshop.com.
Get yourself a pile of boxes small bags etc and itemise everything as you take it apart, makes it easier for reference etc when you come to put back together and you just replace the rusty bolts with new ones as you have the old ones for reference. YRM are also great for Galvanize parts but be warned you'll end handing them over loads of cash 
As you have a lift, leave the body as one and lift it clear of the chassis, only if you are going to do a colour change strip it down and paint as parts. Best of luck with the rebuild. Nidge. |
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2nd Sep 2020 7:40pm |
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| RTTDefender Member Since: 28 Aug 2020 Location: Enniskillen Posts: 6
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Here are photos of the bulkhead. I see a few rust holes which is not good. Can a bulkhead be repaired rather than replaced.
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge When ordering the new chassis, would it be good to replace the towers as well. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Last edited by RTTDefender on 6th Sep 2020 6:41am. Edited 1 time in total |
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4th Sep 2020 9:57am |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142
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I think in most cases your better off getting your own bulkhead repaired with the repair sections from YRM and then having it locally galvanised. The ones from ashtree are usually completely knackered ones which have had the same treatment and yours may be in better condition.
Also, go marsland. Doesnt look home made like the richards ones. As for the process, just start pulling it to bits. Its all very straightforward. Once you start putting it back together then decide on what to replace/upgrade as you go; oh and get yourslef a metric  ton of stainless bolts! I had plans to keep it simple and try and not fully dissaemble but one things leads to another, in for a penny etc... Keeping the body intact is a good plan as id say its probably 80% of the work effort, just be aware that it feel like a part job too! |
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5th Sep 2020 7:10pm |
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| zippo87 Member Since: 29 Mar 2019 Location: Moray Posts: 100  
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Get plenty of cutting discs for your angle grinder, and if on battery a second 5ah 😂 . I stripped mine on the drive with the wife, making dolly’s for axles, boxes and engine to drag them away for prepping. I found lots of bits that i hadn’t considered prior to doing it. I’m looking forward to doing the 110 at some point, but it needs to start after the house renovation!!!
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5th Sep 2020 8:46pm |
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| RTTDefender Member Since: 28 Aug 2020 Location: Enniskillen Posts: 6
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The door frames to the two doors are rotten at the bottom so new doors are going to be needed. The subframe holding the bulkhead to the chassis not great either. Sea water is a pain for all the few times I launched the boat into the sea.
Is it hard to take the tub apart, as I am going to go a full respray. Battery tray needs replaced too. |
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6th Sep 2020 6:46am |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142
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Sounds like your in for a big job. Put some pics up so we can see the extent of the rot. Id also consider buying thing like a seat box or tub if yours is truly knackered. The amount of hours and replacement panels mean it can easily be worth just getting a better one.
Is it staying as a CSW? I converted mine to a soft top which was actually warmer than the van top lol. |
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6th Sep 2020 7:04am |
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