 | Home > Technical > Mud flaps- snapped bolts |
 
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8580  
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They will be rivnuts.on the inside of the crossmember.
If the rivnuts and broken bolt are spinning when you drill them out then you may well have to employ Mr Angry. Brendan |
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25th Sep 2018 6:21pm |
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| isacs Member Since: 28 Aug 2015 Location: Leamington spa Posts: 404
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They are hexagonal shank rivnuts. So either carry on drilling or use a punch to hammer them into the member. Then you need to buy new 1's and a tool to fit them. Though there is a thread on a home made rivet tool somewhere
Greg |
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25th Sep 2018 6:22pm |
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| Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 730  
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^^^ If the heads have snapped off just use a punch to push them into the crossmember. You can retrieve the bits from inside if you have small hands. If the bolts are spinning, then cut off the heads -I used a Dremmel - and then push through.
I used normal aluminium rivnuts to fit the hole and the home made tool. |
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25th Sep 2018 8:38pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
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You don't need a 'tool'. just a suitably sized bolt with a matching nut and washer.
In the factory they just put the whole flap on complete with nutserts loosely on the bolts and buzz them up tight with an air wrench. |
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25th Sep 2018 10:54pm |
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| Bluestu36 Member Since: 05 Jun 2018 Location: Royston Posts: 18 |
Thanks all!
ZSD-Puma - How do I tighten the nuts, as I can't get to them? |
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26th Sep 2018 3:58pm |
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| isacs Member Since: 28 Aug 2015 Location: Leamington spa Posts: 404
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26th Sep 2018 6:25pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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They're nutserts, use a nut and bolt screwed into it then tighten the nut against the nutsert that crimps it up the same as a tool does. Either that or do what the factory do, put the bolts through the mudflap bracket screw the nutserts onto the bolts loosely, then push them into the holes while tightening them up, the bolts and brackets will pull crimp the nutserts up.  |
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26th Sep 2018 6:47pm |
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| GoatRider Member Since: 09 Aug 2020 Location: Herts Bucks Posts: 16 
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 Click image to enlarge Sunday morning quick job on the Landy, or so I thought. Just remove the front mud flaps and reinstate using new stainless steel brackets. One hour, tops. (DeepCreep penetration oil and Kano Aerokroil Penetrating used all week in the build up to help loosen everything) Four hours. Four Hours!!! and finally they are off after using every f*^^%ing tool: Three socket sets. Power impact driver Wire brush. More oil. Ratchet spanners Regular spanners. Some swearing. More oil. Crow bar. Lump hammer. Lactic acid in the arms. A big swear. And finally the grinder. The final solution on a spinning captive nut. Now unusable. I mean really. They are only mud flaps FFS! Next week, the rears. Wish me luck. Nick Last edited by GoatRider on 9th Aug 2020 8:02pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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9th Aug 2020 12:28pm |
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| macfrank Member Since: 05 Nov 2015 Location: somewhere in the north Posts: 1072  
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 And the wife wonders what the hell is he doing again... Seems to have been easier to cut off the outrigger and weld it back on
I was lucky as our Defender came without front mud flaps and I didn't know LR used rivnuts. So I just used nuts and bolts. Involves some proktological skills, though... |
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9th Aug 2020 2:09pm |
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| markb110 Member Since: 22 May 2010 Location: Guildford Posts: 2629  
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Tip, when you replace the rear mud flaps, note the drain hole in the chassis that the mud flap bracket covers up. Drill a hole in the bracket to match. Good luck  |
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9th Aug 2020 5:17pm |
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| GoatRider Member Since: 09 Aug 2020 Location: Herts Bucks Posts: 16
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Yes I spotted Land Rovers clever design trick to prevent my mud escaping the rear cross member. Although I've just sprayed my new ss brackets!! I'll now have to find a cutter to recreate the wide diameter drain hole. What's the best/ cheapest/one use hole cutter for stainless steel?
Last edited by GoatRider on 9th Aug 2020 7:54pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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9th Aug 2020 6:06pm |
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| markb110 Member Since: 22 May 2010 Location: Guildford Posts: 2629
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I used a step drill bit, but that was on the original mud flap bracket and not stainless....
I also used a strip of adhesive backed neoprene to act as a barrier between the chassis and bracket to keep the metals apart. |
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9th Aug 2020 7:46pm |
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| GoatRider Member Since: 09 Aug 2020 Location: Herts Bucks Posts: 16
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I was wondering about that and came up with just brushing on some waxoyl. It's definitely a moisture trap.
Right now, having just discovered rivnuts for the first time, I'm trying to find the right ones. I've ground and tapped out the existing and the hole fits my 9.5mm drill shank perfectly. Is that an M7 rivnut, the sellers online are a bit vague. Again, I'm going to go stainless. Last edited by GoatRider on 9th Aug 2020 8:02pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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9th Aug 2020 7:54pm |
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| Pacha Member Since: 23 Feb 2020 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 772 
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^^^^^
They are originally M6. Rgds. Chris |
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9th Aug 2020 7:59pm |
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