 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Door screws and bolts - going back to original mild steel |
 
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816   
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As per advise from Olaf from Entreq, after years of having had a full set of stainless screws on the SVX, I have decided to go back to original for doors and rear crossmember. Reason can be found in below Entreq thread. Bottom line is that we believe that mild steel standard screws pose less long term risk than stainless for corrosion due to different metals being in direct contact. Various opinions are in below thread.
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic37404-15.html So a few weeks ago I have asked my dealer to get together all the packs of original screws needed for the 5 doors and for the rear crossmember to body connection. Today I have made a start with the replacement, easy come first, so the 10 screws of the rear crossmember. Have added a few pictures, showing the LR part number. I used copious amounts of Weicon paste, and I left the additional plastic washers which Olaf added between metal washer and body also in place. Will update this thread later as I will continue with the door bolts. Might be useful for having the correct part numbers for each of these bolt types. Cross member - Bolt number AYG 100240 - 10 pieces, all individually packed  Click image to enlarge New standard left, old stainless right. Note, I reused the stainless washers, but with plenty Weicon paste between screw and washer faces. My reasoning is that the stainless is separated from the body by the plastic washer anyway, and if there would be future corrosion, it will be the mild steel bolt, not the stainless washer. In which case I just would buy another AYG 100240 bolt again. The most important of the exercise is that there is again a mild steel bolt threaded part that is screwed into the body with ample Weicon paste, which should be less corrosion risk than using stainless bolts. Click image to enlarge To be continued.... Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw Last edited by ericvv on 18th Oct 2015 4:59am. Edited 2 times in total |
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27th Jun 2015 2:49pm |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6678 
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Good move
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27th Jun 2015 3:28pm |
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| wildcamper Member Since: 25 May 2014 Location: Lockerbie Posts: 112  
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I fear a life of pain heading your way no matter how hard you try it will rust, its just going to happen slow it down by all means but you must must must come to terms with the inevitable truth landies RUST
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27th Jun 2015 3:29pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731  
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I always coat the threads in Duralac - no corrosion after 3+ years
p.s. plus it acts like threadlock... Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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27th Jun 2015 3:30pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816
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Maybe so, eventually.... But I believe it much depends on how you treat/use it. After almost 7 years, mine remains rust free. And I like to do everything I can to keep it that way.
If you have minor issues, like I have had with one pop rivet in the back which started showing some rust, get it taken care of, replace it, and treat the entire area properly to try to solve such problem once and for all. I guess that is how Defenders can be looked after for the next generation. 
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw Last edited by ericvv on 27th Jun 2015 4:14pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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27th Jun 2015 4:01pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816
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I know that Duralac hardens up, but not really as hard as threadlock though. I have been using Duralac too, and it turns into a yellowish hard compound, but can be easily undone again, chip what is left sticking on screws off with a screwdriver or so. I am happy that I found the Weicon paste (via Olaf), it also is a anti-seize installation paste, especially recommended where 2 different metals touch, but it does not harden up. So if in the future I have to replace a mild steel screw again, should be easy peasy.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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27th Jun 2015 4:08pm |
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| wildcamper Member Since: 25 May 2014 Location: Lockerbie Posts: 112
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Only joking Eric i would love to be as careful with mine but I'm not ,more shame on me
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27th Jun 2015 4:13pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
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always put any bolt in with waxoyl and never had a problem
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27th Jun 2015 4:28pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347 
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I wouldn't worry about them rusting, they will take years and years to rust to the point of breaking.
I have loads of original steel nuts and bolts and studs all over my 110 which have been untouched since fitting in 1991 and are still fine with only surface rust. There is so much fuss about stainless fittings and it baffles me as they are so much more of an issue than steel ones. They grip and gaul up when fitting and removing, they cause corrosion issues - plus if it not 316 stainless it will corrode in salt faster than steel! I use stainless fittings at work all day and they are a pain in the proverbial! Give me a standard steel bolt which you can undo with an impact wrench or a gas axe any day. Another brilliant update to a fantastic truck Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197
Self confessed mileage hunter  |
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27th Jun 2015 4:33pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816
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Have tackled the rear door screws today. All went well, all replaced, until I got to the last two screws which are holding the bottom hinge onto the body work.
I had removed the right hand interior rear trim to be able to replace the two screws holding the middle and the top hinges to the body which worked very well, but with the trim removed I saw that the bottom hinge screws are going into an unreachable/invisible part of the lower body. So thought they would simply screw into something behind the body which would retain those two screws. When I first started to undo the upper one of those two screws, the screw came loose without too much of a problem, but now turns without removing itself from the body. So could it be that whatever retains it back there started to turn with the screw, making me getting nowhere? It is the screw in the upper right position in the picture. Anybody know what to do here? (Except take it to the dealer for this, which I would prefer to avoid if possible.  )
Thanks, Eric Click image to enlarge Good order sake, here is a picture of the correct LR part number for the screws connecting the rear door hinges to the door itself. The screws in the bag look different than the standard mild steel, but picture was taken after the switch, so they are the recuperated stainless version covered in Dinitrol (proof that the truck was Dinitrolled properly all the way to the upper parts of the body. Click image to enlarge You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw Last edited by ericvv on 1st Aug 2015 5:18am. Edited 1 time in total |
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31st Jul 2015 3:46pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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Eric as you know I replaced my hinges for stainless ones a while ago. The lowest hinge was the hardest. The bolts have nuts on the rear that are not captive but are accessible with a bit of effort and a torch to see exactly where they are. You may have to get down and dirty for once and at arms length lying on your back you can get a ring spanner on them at the rear quarter whilst somebody else undoes the bolts. Alternatively get them to do the spannering and you will stay nice and clean.
Click image to enlarge If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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31st Jul 2015 4:14pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816
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Thanks Mal,
That is the last place where I would have expected normal nuts being used. But good to hear that what happened is just normal.
Don't feel like doing this tonight, will be the perfect job for tomorrow Aug 1, the Swiss National holiday. If I succeed, I will have earned tomorrow evenings saucisses and frites, swiss cheeses, with the necessary glasses of chasselas served by our village council.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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31st Jul 2015 4:22pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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Croatian Lamb for me tonight in Opatija washed down with copious amounts of Karlovacko.
If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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31st Jul 2015 5:07pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20663
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Carful Eric, Mal will be offering to show you his stainless nuts soon.
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31st Jul 2015 5:13pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816
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National holiday here, but it rains.
 Now we should not complain too much as it is one of the few rain days we have had since middle of June, and this will help turn our grass from dry yellow to green again. As of tomorrow it is going to turn sunny and gradually really hot again. 
Will probably make a start today with some of the side door screws, but for now I am not going to do anything further about the screws fixing the lower rear door hinge to the body, which as per earlier post is turning idle. I have a question about these screws. As said my dealer looked up the full set of required original bolts for the rear cross member and for all 5 doors. The strange thing was that all screws packages in mild steel look the same and as I expected, the known a bit rough surfaced dull grey, except for the packs with the bolts fixing the 3 rear door hinges to the body. Those 6 screws are in mild steel, but are a more polished finish, and are having a blue-ish tint. I asked my dealer's parts department about it, and they said that they had posed the same question to Land Rover, but Land Rover confirmed that those are the right bolts for this purpose. I have my doubts as I think that all original bolts on a Defender are the same dull grey finish. Now I already put these 4 screws for the top and middle hinge in, could not continue yesterday when the first stainless screw of the bottom hinge started turning idle. (Mal provided the solution. )
I then took a look at those screws and they are exactly the same length as the 10 screws fixing the rear cross member to the body. So question is, is the dealer right and is there ex factory a different appearance between these screws for the hinges to rear body connection and all other mild steel screws? If not, I think I should order 6 additional rear crossmember screws and use those for the hinges to body connection, as they are the very same size and shape. Anybody in the know? Here are some pictures of what I am talking about. These are the rear cross member bolts and correct part number Click image to enlarge And these are the individually packaged bolts dealer sold me as original for the rear door hinges to body connection. Same size as above, but different quality mild steel and different look. Click image to enlarge Interested to hear if I could order 6 additional AYG100240 bolts for the rear hinges to body connection. Or, but I doubt it, are LR correct? Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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1st Aug 2015 5:13am |
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