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Tr90

Member Since: 06 Jan 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 135

Td5 central locking retro fitting

So made the decision to fit cdl to my 2000TD5 CSW.

Progress so far

Purchased the kit from Hawk as it was back in stock and at £20.

There are a load of posts about this but thought I would add my 10p worth.

First stage was to get at the 10AS as I wanted to send this off and get the relay fitted as my one didn’t have it.

Managed to get the steering wheel off. Was definitely a 2 person job as one could pull the wheel, with the nut on, and one to give it a tap with a rubber mallet. Not forgetting to mark centre so I can put it back straight.

Steering wheel free I could undo the instrument cowl and push to one side. Now I can see the 10AS. Can get to right hand screw by removing the 3 switch setup ( fog light, Hazards & heated rear window. Need a stubby screwdriver to get the left one.

Took off the safari door panel as I’m going to split the door lock and ran the wires through.

That where we stopped as the F1 is on.

Updates to follow

Click image to enlarge

19th Jul 2020 1:52pm

Tr90

Member Since: 06 Jan 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 135

Part 2 - The rear door

Stood for a bit of time questioning if I should drill out the rivets on the safari door lock and was I really happy to do so. Then thought if I was going to do the CDL upgrade I should do all the locks so out comes the drill and carefully opened it up expecting a comedy of springs flying out as it came apart.

Click image to enlarge

All was well. The small spring that holds the locking lever had broken and it was all full of crap but after a clean up all was well.

Decided to bend the locking lever inside the mechanism and attach one of the rods to it.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Then drilled the case for the rod to come out

Click image to enlarge

Really please with this approach. tested the lock several times whilst he'd in clamps and then riveted it back together.

Then attached the actuator and back on to the door.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Tested with bench top power supply and works well on the actuator and with the key in the lock.

10AS posted to Technozen Electronics to have the CDL relay installed. Hopefully a quick turn around as off for a couple of days now. Tomorrows job is to fit the drivers and the passenger door. Then wire it all up.

20th Jul 2020 4:31pm

Tr90

Member Since: 06 Jan 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 135

Part three: Driver and passenger door

Took the door cards off and broke several of the clips. Had predicted this and had ordered some so hopefully they will be here tomorrow.

Took some time to work out where to place the actuators. If time was measured in Marlboro’s it took 5.

Click image to enlarge

Loosened the it that holds the window winder mechanism and put a spacer behind it. Bent out the bottom with a pair of pliers. This allows the actuator to sit behind the metal panel whilst the window clears it and the door card still fits.

Drilled a couple of holes and riveted the support bar in place. I brought a riveter especially for this job and I love it. Something very satisfying about it.

Did the passenger door as well.

Click image to enlarge

Now for the wiring.

Needed something long and thin to get the wires from the rear, across the headliner and down to the dash. Cut a old umbrella apart and used the metal spans as a guiding rod. Wire from the back goes up the rear panel and then between the headliner and the roof panel. From there it goes down the windscreen panel and into the instrument cluster

The passenger door goes between the dash and the firewall and into the instrument cluster again using the umbrella metal spans to guide it through. Drivers is more complicated as there are a lot of wires. Depending on if the refurbished 10AS will operate the actuators without using the hawk box I will only use the two needed.

So....l now I have wires to the doors but not in the doors. Need to figure out how to get across the air gap between door and dash. Time for a couple more Marlboro

21st Jul 2020 6:10pm

Tr90

Member Since: 06 Jan 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 135

All finished.

Well except for the door card as they sent me the wrong fixings.

Put a fair bit of flashing tape on to the door panels to stop them sounding so tinny.

Used the pivot holes in the door mechanism to attach the actuator rods. Result.

Fitted the 10AS back but cut out the hole to make it fit the hard to reach bolt better.

Click image to enlarge

Then tidied up the wires.

Click image to enlarge

All done and it works!

26th Jul 2020 12:36pm

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