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lohr500



Member Since: 14 Sep 2014
Location: Skipton
Posts: 1316

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Any joiners or carpenters on the forum?
Looking for some advice please.
I have four oak panel doors where I need to trim a bit off the bottoms to clear new carpet we are having fitted. I'm guessing around 8 to 10 mm max.
Because they are oak, hand sawing will be hard work so I am thinking about using a powered circular saw.

I saw some YouTube videos, where it was suggested to clamp a guide rail higher up the door and run the circular saw against the guide rail after scoring the cut line first and putting masking tape over the wood to stop the saw scratching the surface.

Is a circular saw the best tool for the job and if so what type of saw blade would be best for oak? I am considering buying the base DeWalt 18v cordless circular saw which comes with a 24 tooth TCT blade as standard. I have plenty of DeWalt batteries already.

If not a circular saw, what else should I consider?

Cheers.
Post #838941 22nd Jun 2020 5:08pm
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Joe the Plumber



Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 907

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
I'm sure you'll get some good advice on here, but if not, try the Screwfix Forum (as in the shops). That's similarly friendly to this one.

Just watch circular saws. They're potentially very bad news, just like electric planing machines (he says, looking at the scars....)

Personally, I'd use a decent hand saw these days.
Post #838947 22nd Jun 2020 5:28pm
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Joe the Plumber



Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 907

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
Oh yes, and beware the 18V addiction. It can be VERY expensive once you're hooked.

Makita send me Christmas cards....
Post #838948 22nd Jun 2020 5:29pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17374

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Joe the Plumber wrote:
I'm sure you'll get some good advice on here, but if not, try the Screwfix Forum (as in the shops). That's similarly friendly to this one.

Just watch circular saws. They're potentially very bad news, just like electric planing machines (he says, looking at the scars....)

Personally, I'd use a decent hand saw these days.


You do know you're not supposed to use them on your body, don't you? That could be quite harmful! Rolling with laughter
Post #838953 22nd Jun 2020 5:44pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17374

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I'm not a pro but I would either use a circular saw or a track saw. If the former I'd use a straight cutting guide. I'd use a fairly fine tooth blade (ie not a ripping blade) for a decent cut.

Personally I'm a big fan of the Milwaukee M18 rear handle saw, it's well balanced and the motor is on the right, making it much easier to see what you're doing. It might not be ideal if you're just cutting a sliver though, and it is a tad pricey.
Post #838957 22nd Jun 2020 5:49pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3674

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Tracksaw is the tool for the job, especially on hardwood. A circular saw will cause an ungodly amount of tear out. You should hopefully be able to hire something near by and they will literally do each door in less than a minute. How many do you have to do? I’m about 10 miles north of York if you wanted to come over and borrow my festool for a weekend?

If your thinking of buying a dewalt circular saw, seriously consider that track saw instead. It can do everything the circular can do, plus more and make a much neater job of it.


Last edited by Co1 on 22nd Jun 2020 5:51pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #838958 22nd Jun 2020 5:50pm
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Joe the Plumber



Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 907

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
It was called an electric hand planer....
Post #838959 22nd Jun 2020 5:50pm
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gilarion



Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5110

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green
I am neither a joiner or carpenter; however, I have had experience performing the work you mentioned. 10-12 mm is not that much to remove, about the same amount I had to remove from doors and I found a sharp plane even on oak worked perfectly as long as you keep the blade sharp.

The tool you mention maybe a good tool but depending on the blade size 24 teeth is more a rip blade and could give you a chipped edge. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1
Post #838961 22nd Jun 2020 5:51pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3674

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Had a friend take some doors down with an electric hand plane. Was straddling the door while doing the long edge. Slipped off the door and planed his knee cap! Could have been much worse!!
Post #838962 22nd Jun 2020 5:52pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17374

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Joe the Plumber wrote:
It was called an electric hand planer....


Rolling with laughter
Post #838968 22nd Jun 2020 5:57pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17374

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Co1 wrote:
Had a friend take some doors down with an electric hand plane. Was straddling the door while doing the long edge. Slipped off the door and planed his knee cap! Could have been much worse!!


Without wanting to denigrate your friend, it is important to encourage wannabe Darwin award winners.

Seriously we've all done things that seemed sensible at the time but with hindsight you wonder why on earth you did it. I imagine that that was one such.
Post #838969 22nd Jun 2020 6:00pm
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Chugga90



Member Since: 07 Sep 2014
Location: Bucks
Posts: 208

Plunge saw with an alloy guide.
More teeth the finer the cut.

Much easier to get a neat finish than with a planer.
Thumbs Up
Post #838971 22nd Jun 2020 6:01pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8026

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
a 576xp? Rough edge guaranteed!

On a more serious note would plane it off. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #838974 22nd Jun 2020 6:04pm
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Nidge



Member Since: 27 Jan 2008
Location: Kildare Ireland
Posts: 818

Ireland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HCPU Cairns Blue
This is what you need... don't go near it with a planer or skill saw.....stone age tools Rolling with laughter

Most hire shops will have Makita or Festool and anti split strip will reduce break out, use a med duty blade go too fine on a 2" solid door and it may struggle. You don't need to clamp it either as the none slip strips on the base of the track hold it in place.

Oh and I'm a Cabinetmaker by trade and part time Landrover mechanic !!!

N.



Click image to enlarge
Post #838982 22nd Jun 2020 6:15pm
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lohr500



Member Since: 14 Sep 2014
Location: Skipton
Posts: 1316

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Wow. Thanks for all the quick replies and advice.

From most of the responses it sounds as though a track saw is what I need as I don't fancy hand planing or sawing.
And with a medium duty blade.
I'll start looking around. Hoping a cheaper one will do the trick as it isn't something I will be using day in, day out.

Thanks also for the offer of borrowing your Festool Co1. Very kind. I don't mind buying something though as I'm sure it will come in handy for other jobs in the future. Also, it is probably an hour and twenty minutes from my place to north of York, so close to two 3 hour return journeys to borrow your kit.

If it was down to me, I'd just run the chainsaw along them for that rustic look, but SWMBO is expecting a quality job Rolling Eyes
Post #838993 22nd Jun 2020 6:54pm
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