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TheShrink



Member Since: 25 Apr 2019
Location: Somerset
Posts: 47

United Kingdom 
Ball Bearing Security
Hi All,

I am not ‘mechanical’ so apologies in advance if my query is silly.

I like the idea of inserting ball bearings in the head of bolts to prevent parts being stolen.

Is this easy to do?

In the event you need to take a part off, how is the bb removed?

Thanks

The Shrink
Post #803027 20th Nov 2019 10:33pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
They're easy enough to insert and difficult, although not impossible to lever out again, which is of course the whole point.

As an aside, I recently came across these on eBay, which appear to be a slightly more elegant solution. I suspect removal would require some very careful drilling:


Click image to enlarge


https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/BjQAAOSwm~daaF5i/s-l1600.jpg Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #803029 20th Nov 2019 10:51pm
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bankz5152



Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 2173

2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green
Id buy the bombproof door hinges instead. Serves the same purpose but you havnt got a total ass of a job when you need a door off. Instagram @defender_ventures
Empire Tuning - Agent
Post #803035 21st Nov 2019 5:56am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17414

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Personally I don't think that the bombproof hinge plates offer any security at all as they assume that the hinges are being unbolted in order to gain access to the vehicle. In practice it is so easy to open the door first that the only reason to unbolt the hinges is to steal the doors, and once they are open the hinge plates do nothing.

Ball bearings are very effective but if securely bonded can take a long time to remove, which is exactly what you want.
Post #803037 21st Nov 2019 7:15am
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2301

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I appreciate that for some welding is not an option,

However if I were to weld the bolts to the hinge (from behind the hinge to maintain OE appearance), effectively turning the bolts into studs, then this would render the bolts "tamper proof" externally?

Can anybody see a reason why this would not be advised? > 110 XS Double Cab
Post #803040 21st Nov 2019 7:39am
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TheShrink



Member Since: 25 Apr 2019
Location: Somerset
Posts: 47

United Kingdom 
Would someone PM me to explain how a ball bearing can be extracted?

Also, does putting silicone over the heads of bolts work?

Thanks
Post #803042 21st Nov 2019 7:55am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17414

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
hank wrote:
I appreciate that for some welding is not an option,

However if I were to weld the bolts to the hinge (from behind the hinge to maintain OE appearance), effectively turning the bolts into studs, then this would render the bolts "tamper proof" externally?

Can anybody see a reason why this would not be advised?


It doesn't address the real issue, the screws which go into the captive nuts in the A posts (and B posts on a 110).
Post #803045 21st Nov 2019 8:15am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17414

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
TheShrink wrote:
Would someone PM me to explain how a ball bearing can be extracted?

Also, does putting silicone over the heads of bolts work?

Thanks


Balls can usually be removed with great difficulty and a lot of patience. I replaced my ball-bearinged hinges a while back (110 DC, so 4 doors) and it took a variety of tools and about a day of my time to get enough balls out to get the hinges off.

Filling the socket heads of the fasteners is effective and it is still fairly time-consuming to dig out enough to unscrew them, though not in the same league as balls. If you have pin torx 'security' screws you cannot use balls so silicon or similar filler is an easy alternative.
Post #803047 21st Nov 2019 8:24am
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2301

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
blackwolf wrote:


It doesn't address the real issue, the screws which go into the captive nuts in the A posts (and B posts on a 110).


Sorry, if these were replaces with conventional nuts > 110 XS Double Cab
Post #803048 21st Nov 2019 8:50am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
The problem is that you can't get to the backs of those to use conventional nuts. They're inside the A and B posts. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #803049 21st Nov 2019 9:05am
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2301

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Trying to think back to remember what it's like, am away from my Defender in Saudi Arabia at the moment . Will have to refresh my memory when home over Christmas! > 110 XS Double Cab
Post #803050 21st Nov 2019 9:11am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17414

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
You can actually get to the B post nuts on a 110/130, but you'd have to cut holes in the bulkhead for the A post.
Post #803058 21st Nov 2019 9:59am
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello TheShrink

I agree that the door bolts are a worth while security level and easy enough to implement
and probably take the vehicle to a point that put off the opportunist as it adds time to get round this step.

If all doors (and probably the bonnet too) are removed from a Defender, cutting the loom to the
central locking / electric windows in the process, this can potentially result in the vehicle being written off
(there is a post on D2N that ended this way)

I hadn't seen the Torx infills posted by LandRoverAnorak and I would view these as essentially
a 'sealed for life' security step, may ok... but the ball bearings do give you a reverse option.

I haven't needed to do it on the Defender but have needed to remove a component from a bicycle (Brooks saddle)
by drilling out, basically a small drill bit (I used a Dremel) at 3 of the Torx 'end points' and the metal based resin isopon
'gave way'...with some gentle encouragement.

I replaced all Torx bolts with SS versions (site sponsor) used cycle ball bearings to infill I also painted the end result
body colour here is mid process...


Click image to enlarge


Good Luck SKIP
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Post #803059 21st Nov 2019 10:03am
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
TheShrink wrote:
Would someone PM me to explain how a ball bearing can be extracted?

Also, does putting silicone over the heads of bolts work?

Thanks


I've been thinking about the silicon option but still haven't got round to it' I'm sure it would suffice in slowing removal down sufficiently. Thumbs Up
Post #803061 21st Nov 2019 10:56am
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Paul1275s



Member Since: 21 Apr 2019
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 80

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 SW Belize Green
I’m probably just going to drill the head of the bolts to remove the torx profile once bolts are fitted securely. So basically it’s like having a rounded head. I’ve got enough cobalt drill bits and easy-outs if I ever need to remove the doors. Might back up with a ball bearing. At the end of the day my doors are dented to Censored and a bit crusty at the bottom, they’d almost be doing me a favour... 2003 Defender 110 TD5 SW
2003 Caterham 7
2006 Mini Cooper GP
Post #803066 21st Nov 2019 11:14am
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