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kmac



Member Since: 07 Oct 2009
Location: Middlesex
Posts: 1309

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Sharpening tools
Okay so I have a number of tools that require sharpening:

1) rotary mower blade
2) Various HSS drill bits
3) Various garden tools - shears, secateurs and loppers
4) Chisels

What do people here generally use? Is there one solution to cover all of the above?
Won't need this too frequently so not looking for an expensive professional use solution, but alternatively don't want tat either.

I already have an angle grinder (Blue Bosch corded) so could get a grinding disc for that.
Post #835839 7th Jun 2020 9:44pm
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tyrannosauROSS



Member Since: 24 Jun 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 136

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Chawton White
I have a collection of sharpening tools,

But look at the Work Sharp brand. They are pretty well made tools. The Ken Onion Editions are great.
Post #835847 7th Jun 2020 10:05pm
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vulcanfreak



Member Since: 05 Sep 2010
Location: suffolk
Posts: 77

2006 Defender 90 Td5 Silver LE Zambezi Silver
The mower and the shears you could do with a grinder if you are careful, the rest could be done with a bench grinder but i would suggest some tuition, its not something you can learn overnight. If you want professional results look up Tormek whetstone sharpening systems.
Post #835848 7th Jun 2020 10:05pm
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kmac



Member Since: 07 Oct 2009
Location: Middlesex
Posts: 1309

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Thanks

Worksharp looks interesting - will look into that.

Tormek is way out of the price range - cheaper for a domestic user to just replace blades.
Post #835854 7th Jun 2020 10:20pm
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Roger



Member Since: 26 Apr 2018
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 71

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Java Black
Bladetech make some good little sharpeners that will put a new edge on garden tools and knives etc. It will only do half of your list but for about £10 it is worth having one in the kitchen drawer. Thumbs Up
Post #835856 7th Jun 2020 10:34pm
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
For all of those except the drill bits, I'd go hand tools - you really don't need the power, speed or heat of powered tools in a home environment, especially if you adopt the little and often approach and try not to use the tools inappropriately.

An ordinary fine steel file, a marker pen to mark the edge and show progress and then if you really want a few of these to put a really fine edge on:


Click image to enlarge

https://uk.knivesandtools.eu/en/pt/-eze-la...-yEALw_wcB

I have a selection of Japanese wet stones - but to be honest never use them now. You don't want to have to go off and get a bucket of water, soak them for 5 mins and then sharpen and then tidy up afterwards...
Post #835889 8th Jun 2020 8:18am
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1218

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
I assume that the mower is a push one? I sharpen the blades on my mower with a flap disc on a grinder but then it's a 48" wide ride on. By hand would take far too long when it hits sticks, stones and earth fairly regularly. Plus the deck ain't that straight anyway.

Drill bits I tend to simply replace.

Garden tools including machetes and knives tend to be with a scythe sharpening stone. It's aggressive but doesn't half leave an edge on the bigger blades.

Knives for the kitchen and stalking I tend to keep keen on, I think it's called a Warthog 2 thingy, two spring loaded diamond pads to maintain the correct angle. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #835892 8th Jun 2020 8:24am
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1841

 
I have some Japanese water stones, for bushcraft/camping knives ( I run some sessions for kids through work) but as has been said, they are a bit of a faff. Good results though, when you take the time to do it properly.

But the main reason I wanted to reply was on the point about drill bits (pardon the pun...). I did just used to replace these, but when you're in the middle of a job, and you want that hole drilled... it's a pain to break off and go and get some more - even if you do have somewhere relatively close by and open. Over the years, I ended up with boxes and boxes of so-so drill bits.

I thought there must be a better way, so recently I bought a cheap-ish bench grinder. Two stone wheels, and one of them has the angled rest for drill bits. I have to say it's been fantastic - worth buying the grinder for that alone. I watched a couple of youtube videos to get an idea of the technique, and it's saved me time and money. The difference between using a newly sharpened bit, and the one that's getting old is chalk and cheese - quicker, cleaner and easier on the drill and user! Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #835903 8th Jun 2020 9:56am
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4206

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
I sharpen drill bits on the bench grinder. With a bit of practise you can do it by eye with no guide, but you need to know the geometry you are aiming for. I was taught how to do it, but I'm sure there'll be videos on the 'net. I also was shown how to regrind masonry bits to cut hardened steel, which is handy. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #835911 8th Jun 2020 10:27am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17362

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
If you lack the skill to grind the correct angles for a twist drill by hand, traditional sharpening jigs are not expensive.

This sort of thing:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-44351-Dril...B0012Q8US0
Post #835924 8th Jun 2020 11:41am
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kmac



Member Since: 07 Oct 2009
Location: Middlesex
Posts: 1309

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Will hand sharpen using a file for most tools.

Will get a jig for drill bits with built in sharpening wheel like MultiSharp 2001
Post #836091 9th Jun 2020 9:10am
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ARC99



Member Since: 19 Feb 2013
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1831

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Cairns Blue
Hand sharpening drill bits is an art that not everyone can get right. It took me years of practice to get it right. If you have a bench grinder and a large nut you can make a reasonable job of sharpening the drills as the angles on a nut are roughly what you need for a drill bit but then you have to judge how much you have taken from one edge and take the same off the second.

Drill bits are now relatively cheap to replace even imperial sizes up to 1/2" , I regularly just replace them buying 5 of so at a time when my stock is depleted. Don't make old people mad.
We don't like being old in the first place,
so it doesn't take much to Censored us off.

Richard
Post #836294 10th Jun 2020 9:01am
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kmac



Member Since: 07 Oct 2009
Location: Middlesex
Posts: 1309

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Thanks ARC, I must also look after them, i.e. not drill a hole in my HD Devon front bumper without cutting oil.
To date i have just replaced them.
Post #836305 10th Jun 2020 10:15am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17362

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
What's the diameter of this hole?
Post #836330 10th Jun 2020 1:47pm
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kmac



Member Since: 07 Oct 2009
Location: Middlesex
Posts: 1309

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
6mm just for bolts to fix the number plate as the `Halfords double sided tape finally gave up
Post #836475 11th Jun 2020 7:41am
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