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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5878
France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
Folk knowledgeable about petrol lawnmowers
Just in the process of giving my petrol lawnmower a service and blade change. I’ve noticed the mower has been harder to start recently and finds any kind of resistance in the grass tough going. The blade turns (relatively) freely for four turns then gets hard to turn. Is this normal or should it turn freely? If freely, what would the cause of the jarring be? Note that I’ve engaged the handle to release the small brake pad off the Counter-weight brake surface.

Thanks in advance Thumbs Up Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #831786 18th May 2020 1:23pm
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lohr500



Member Since: 14 Sep 2014
Location: Skipton
Posts: 1330
United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Is it a traditional cylinder mower with a chain guard on the side, or one with a rotary blade attached directly to the engine crankshaft?
After four turns and it then getting hard to turn, does it then free off again for another four turns?

If it is a cylinder mower, I would take off the chain guard and observe the gears rotating whilst you rotate the blades. I can't remember how cylinder mower blades are geared but it could be that the chain is partially binding on a chain wheel at some point or there is a problem within the engine.

I might be teaching you how to suck eggs, but just make sure you detach the spark plug lead before turning over the blades to be sure it doesn't accidentally start!! You could also take the plug out and see if the tightness when rotating the blade corresponds to the piston being in a particular position. If the blade was running at twice engine speed, then I guess the engine could have a tight valve which would be seen on every second crank rotation. (Assuming it's not a 2 stroke).

Bit of a shot in the dark, but I would start investigating along those lines, starting with any chain drive and working back from there towards the engine.
Post #831789 18th May 2020 1:39pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4230
United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
If it's a 4 stroke, every second turn should feel resistance as compression builds in the cylinder. After the piston reaches top dead centre you should suddenly feel the resistance go.

Note that this is only the case if the spark plug is fitted. If it is, be careful turning it over, you don't want it starting by accident Shocked

For you running problems, start with the basics. Check the plug gap, check the sir filter is clean. Squirt some carb cleaner in the throttle. Make sure the fuel is fresh and stick a dose of fuel system cleaner in like Redex.. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #831790 18th May 2020 1:43pm
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r500sac



Member Since: 28 Mar 2014
Location: Monmouth
Posts: 36
United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Zambezi Silver
Search for Mustie1 on YouTube, he'll teach you all there is to know about petrol mowers!
Post #831800 18th May 2020 2:58pm
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5878
France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
Thank you all. Thumbs Up

It is direct to motor with belt driven rear wheels. I’ve given it a good dig out, cleaned and balanced the spark plug, checked filter (clean as a whistle) and adjusted the carb a little (we live at altitude). I’ve given everything a good grease. I’ll replace and adjust the started cord.

Re the turn, yes, it gets progressively harder, then releases and then goes through the process again, so I can only assume it is compression as mentioned by Bluest.

I’ll check out Mustie 1 just to be sure. Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #831806 18th May 2020 3:28pm
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Romadog



Member Since: 07 Jul 2011
Location: Powys
Posts: 1750
If it's. Struggling then that would be a fuel issue.
I sugest remove carb and make sure the bowl is clean an also the jets as these block easily especially with stale fuel Thumbs Up
Post #831836 18th May 2020 6:10pm
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Chopperone



Member Since: 13 Nov 2016
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 396
United Kingdom 
You want to try running a fuel stabiliser or additive that cleans through the system.
I use one ( can’t remember the name but will go & look ).
Basically you use it instead of petrol at the end of the season.
Run your tank dry & then add this & run your engine.
It protects seals etc & allows the engine to be started at a later date much more readily.
They are not cheap;about£15 a gallon
Guy May your life be like toilet paper ; long & useful.
Post #831914 19th May 2020 5:37am
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Chopperone



Member Since: 13 Nov 2016
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 396
United Kingdom 
Aspen 2 ( for 2 stroke engines) & Viking make one called Motorplus.
I am sure there are plenty of others
Guy May your life be like toilet paper ; long & useful.
Post #831915 19th May 2020 5:57am
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5878
France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
Thank you again. Will check the carb. Heading to the DIY store today, will look for some cleaner and at the end of the season, some of the additive mentioned. Ta. Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #831916 19th May 2020 6:08am
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ARC99



Member Since: 19 Feb 2013
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1831
United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Cairns Blue
Grenadier wrote:
Thank you all. Thumbs Up

It is direct to motor with belt driven rear wheels. I’ve given it a good dig out, cleaned and balanced the spark plug, checked filter (clean as a whistle) and adjusted the carb a little (we live at altitude). I’ve given everything a good grease. I’ll replace and adjust the started cord.

Re the turn, yes, it gets progressively harder, then releases and then goes through the process again, so I can only assume it is compression as mentioned by Bluest.

I’ll check out Mustie 1 just to be sure.


Have you tried turning by hand with the spark plug removed ?

Mine had the same symptoms, I was concerned while turning the blades by hand until I removed the spark plug and it turned freely and I realised it was just the compression. Don't make old people mad.
We don't like being old in the first place,
so it doesn't take much to Censored us off.

Richard
Post #831930 19th May 2020 7:46am
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