Jeebs wrote:

Rears most definitely need done.

Will the TD5 callipers just be a bolt on part, not a mammoth task? I intend on replacing mud shields at the same time as these have also seen better days.

I have done disks and pads previously on a puma, which didn’t need “end float” set.

That’s the only part that is really of any concern to me, rebuilding the hub and setting endfloat.

Yeah just bolt on, you can get a kit for about 150 quid or so on ebay  Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back

Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it!

Procta wrote:

i wouldn't really waste your money on braided hoses, i don't really think they are as good as some people say they are.

The only thing I will say here is if your brake pipes are as old as the vehicle, replacing them with braided will make a good difference as the rubber ones have probably lost some capability. I remember swapping my old 200tdi pipes to braided and it was like night and day, much more responsive to pedal pressure. But as said if your pipes are fairly new there probably wont be much difference.

The other things to check are in good fettle are the vacuum pumps, vacuum pipes, connections and servos. These all perish with age. My biggest leak on the 200tdi was from the rubber grommet that the one way valve sits in on the servo. Used to Hisssssssssssssssssss....

Less trouble are the biasing valves, but check it for weeping of excessive corrosion.

Calipers, go for stainless steel right from the offset if you can afford it, save you a lot of effort repeating the process in the future.

One thing I wish I had done was paint my calipers before fitting as they look awful now, not for looks sake but as an anti corrosion thing.

The Britpart performance discs are actually really good and did a grand job stopping my 110 for 5 years or so. Now have EBC discs on the front and to be honest I cannot tell the difference.

Wouldn't touch Mintrex pads with a barge pole after the last set I had, screeched like a banshee. Have been EBC pads ever since and haven't looked back.

The job of swapping over the discs is not a particularly difficult one just a bit dirty perhaps. Make sure you fit new hub nuts and locking washers and it would be worth having a set of bearings on stand by just in case you need to replace a set or two. If your old bearings are OK then clean them with brake cleaner and use good clean grease to pack the bearings. Also have some fine wet and dry on stand by to remove and ridges on teh stub axles.

This is a really enjoyable DIY job to do, just take your time and have plenty of coffee and hob-nobs to hand

Mo Murphy wrote:

Why is it the best ? Because it has a higher boiling point ? Are you likely to boil the brake fluid ?
It's up to the OP of course, but I'm inclined to use the appropriate fluid for the job rather than one that has a higher number so it must be better.
Perhaps you're thinking of DOT 5 fluid which is silicone based. It's great because it doesn't absorb water like standard brake fluid but alas rots all the rubber seals.
Hope that offers some clarification
Mo

Huh funny you should mention boiling brake fluid... I did a month or so ago coming down a massively steep hill near Conwy. The brake pedal was remarkably spongy, had to stand with both feet on the pedal to slow down before the T-Junction at the bottom of the road. First time I have ever had this happen. The wife was moderately alarmed when I told her the brakes weren't working very well...

I suspect though the system just needs a damn good bleed.