 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Gearbox and clutch change |
 
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) and I have changed gearboxes/clutches on series 2's/3s before so my toolkit is comprehensive enough for doing those, but may be missing any special tools for this high-tech modern machine 
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17442   
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You shouldn't need any special tools for this job (other than a clutch alignment tool, which you have). You amy find that you need a new spigot bearing in the back of the crankshaft, these however can be very difficult to extract on a Puma. You will need to drain and refill the transfer box, so make sure that you have the gear oil for that. It;s a good opportunity to drain and refill the main gearbox (noting that it doesn't have level plug and relies on a measured quantity of oil). Make sure that you have a suitable grease for the output adaptor shaft coupling, the best being molybdenum disulphide CV joint grease (unless you are using an Ashcroft Transmissions modified shaft, in which case use gearbox oil, but I assume that you're not as you mention LOF).
Be careful lowering the transfer box and the gearbox, they are both quite heavy enough to cause life-changing injuries if they land on part you, and the NHS is rather busy just now! |
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14th Apr 2020 7:10pm |
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| Shepherd Member Since: 21 Apr 2014 Location: Devon Posts: 22 
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Above covers most of it
The proper tool for the prop shaft bolts saves rounding them off and makes it heaps quicker The top bell housing bolts are awkward Decent rattle gun and some hydraulic pullers for the output shaft The clutch takes a bit of patience to bleed the reservoir is tiny The spigot bearings can be horribly tight. Last one I had to weld a bolt inside and wind it out. Once you have started you are obv committed to getting it out! Those would be the only tricky points. The rest is pretty straight forward. |
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14th Apr 2020 10:22pm |
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| PumaPhil Member Since: 26 Oct 2014 Location: Bridgend Posts: 201  
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Thank-you both, it looks like the only tool I may be missing is a hydraulic puller for the output shaft.
I plan on splitting the gearbox and transfer box in situ and dropping them separately. This should help to reduce the weight and danger of injury. Will update this thread once I have done it  |
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15th Apr 2020 7:40am |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1763 
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I've literally just finished reinstalling the gearbox and transfer box on the back of my td5. Obviously different gearbox but same transfer case!
I ended up making an lt230 jacking adapter from scrap wood, as I can't easily get to my welding kit. Made a big difference. I also ended up making a jacking adapter for the gearbox, as my trolley jack doesn't have enough height otherwise. It's a bit slow and painful on your own, but not too horrendous. I also strapped both lumps down onto the trolley jack when I lowered them to reduce the risk further of a visit to a&e |
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15th Apr 2020 8:27am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17442
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This, IMO, is the only sensible option on a TDCi, since (a) you'll want to split them to inspect the output shaft, and (b) there is no readily available jacking adaptor that suits the combined gearbox/transferbox assembly. On a TD5 it is easy enough to remove the R380 and LT230 as a single lump since there is a jacking adaptor to suit a transmission jack available. There is one special tools that helps with the output shaft change, as shown in the picture below. This holds the female part of the coupling (on the gearbox) to allow the centre nut to be loosened and tightened, but sadly it is rather expensive and not easy to obtain. Most people put the box in gear while it is still on the engine, and used an impact wrench, personally I wouldn't do this since I don't like the thought of the shock load it applies to the gearbox internals - I prefer the correct tool.  |
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15th Apr 2020 8:56am |
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| PumaPhil Member Since: 26 Oct 2014 Location: Bridgend Posts: 201
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Good point on the cradle for lowering the boxes, I think I have enough off-cuts of steel in the garage to make something. When I last did a series gearbox I lifted it in through the door as one assembly with the seatbox removed. I'm trying to preserve my back a little more now though...
I agree, I am not keen on loading the gearbox internals unnecessarily to undo the bolt. I don't have a impact gun, but thanks for the photo of the special locking tool, i'll see if I can construct/adapt something to do the job. |
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16th Apr 2020 8:48pm |
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| Finchy13 Member Since: 07 Apr 2019 Location: North East Posts: 20 
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This video might be of some use to you if you. Tho it does require an engine hoist...
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16th Apr 2020 8:59pm |
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| Big Harold Member Since: 09 Jul 2018 Location: nsw Posts: 71  
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No sure why everybody is worried about loading up the gearbox? You do know they transmit drive from the engine to the diffs don't you. How much load do you think the backlash in a Defender drive train loads up the gearbox? I used the centre from the old pressure plate and welded it to a piece of flat bar that bolts through the bellhousing. Mark |
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16th Apr 2020 10:24pm |
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| PumaPhil Member Since: 26 Oct 2014 Location: Bridgend Posts: 201
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That is a useful video Finchy, especially when you skip the engine hoist advertising...
Gearbox and transfer box came out yesterday. I split them and lowered each to the floor on a trolley jack. I have the car on four small ramps to gain a little extra height. Nothing too challenging, just time consuming. The hardest part is the exhaust with DPF. I disconnected this at the turbo and wriggled it out of the way as much as possible, This meant I had to drop the gearbox slightly and roll it backwards past the exhaust before lowering to the floor. If the DPF was easier to remover from the car the job would be a lot easier! I removed the centre silencer completely, same with the propshafts. I left the seatbox in but removed the seats and floorboards. Will tackle the output shaft and clutch later on today. I had the same thought about making something from the old clutch plate Harold, so will see what I can come up with later on. The output shaft was well on it's way to failure. Well worn with lots of rust and looked to have been bone dry from new. |
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19th Apr 2020 11:09am |
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| PumaPhil Member Since: 26 Oct 2014 Location: Bridgend Posts: 201
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Just to update this thread - the Landy is all back together now. Similar to Harold's idea I welded a piece of angle steel onto the old clutch plate, the ends of which bolted to the bellhousing bolt holes. With the gearbox in gear this stopped it rotating and the nut on the output shaft came off easily then. The cup itself just came off using a standard cheap two leg puller that I have, so need for a hydraulic puller in this case.
My problem now is that the bite point on the clutch is very low. I have bled it several times and there seems to be no air in the fluid. I also checked and adjusted the pedal so that it sits 140mm from the floor (it was about 155mm) by moving the lock nuts on the master cylinder pushrod. The pedal moves the first 40mm with no resistance and the bite point is about 10-15mm from the floor. [/i] |
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24th Apr 2020 12:14pm |
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