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macfrank

Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 1083

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green

Matt110 wrote:

So in terms of obstructions... if I managed to park the 110 up at enough of an angle that all the chassis angles ran downwards towards the front, would water run out of the chassis if i put the lance in at the rear and wandered it around a bit down the drain cleaner?

Particularly interested if we reckon there is internal bracing around the front spring mounts.
[/img]

I'd also be interested in an "x-ray" view of the chassis.

If you take the bumper off and look inside the front, you see this:

Click image to enlarge

27th Oct 2020 9:21pm

Jon w

Member Since: 22 Dec 2015
Location: North East Wales
Posts: 214

My Previous Chassis lasted 27 years with no welding. I used POR 15 on the outside a couple of times. Waxoil was used once inside but was horrible. Not sure if we ever got round to giving it bilthamer s50 or not. Chassis wasn't in bad nick when I swapped it out, it needed rear crossmember, a frame crossmember and rear outriggers. This was a 1991 chassis and had 17 years of being dunked and a fair bit of sand from Slindon was inside it. After off roading we did wash it off and ran the hose through the chassis holes and jet wash in the holes that fitted, poked a few holes that were blocked with mud. This was a 1990 TDI era chassis so metal does seem better than the TD5 era chassis, however it did as Ed said have holes in the bottom/lowest parts of the chassis so it could drain.

After washing park on a slope and go for a clean but faster drive with a few corners it tends to dry the chassis out again. Daily use I think are less likely to rot out than a weekend toy which sits wet on the drive.

My new Richards galvanised chassis I washed the other weekend and flushed with water, it was pretty clean as haven't sunk it in any bogs just river crossings. This still had water in a week later, so took it out for a drive and it soon dried out. Interestingly this only has holes in the sides at the bottom and none on the bottom faces of the chassis. So I have now put Builthamer s50 in all the cavities with the drain cleaner attachment that comes with the aersols. It shouldn't really need this being galv but I thought while it was clean I might as well. Just hope muck isn't more inclined to stick to it. May think about a few holes in the bottom but don't want to drill the galv too much.

Other things I have see is a hole drilled in the rear tub or rear tub trimmed so a hose can wash out the rear cross member. Also someone had put a threaded hose attachment into a chassis to plug the garden hose into allowing the chassis to be washed through after off roading without the faff of getting sprayed in the face etc

28th Oct 2020 8:38am

sellma

Member Since: 18 Jan 2022
Location: herts
Posts: 2

1998 Defender 110 2.5 TD CSW Chawton White

Re: Chassis modification to allow cleaning inside.

Mossberg wrote:
Has anyone ever modified the ends of the chassis so that it was open to allow a pressure washer inside?

My thoughts are if a a removable plate was added it may allow access for a pressure washer lance. This would also allow for access for treatment, though this is not the primary reason.

Are there any obstructions or items within the chassis that would limit the insertion of a flexible lance, or anything that could be damaged by a pressure washer.

The ends could be played to retain strength.

By the way, I am talking about a 90.

Thanks for any replies.

Regards

Mick

Hi. I had the exact same thought as i need to get the rust out from my chassis. Did you ever do this or how did you go about it?
Thanks

18th Jan 2022 11:07am

Mossberg

Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green

No I have not done this yet but I think there may be issues with the cross member construction - I will have to have another look.

I have also considered the side access through the tub, but don't want to cut into the tub. I did think of cutting into the angled edges, but this would interfere with the mud flap supports. Perhaps a modified mudflap bracket could be manufactured, but it would need to be easy to remove.

18th Jan 2022 3:42pm

sellma

Member Since: 18 Jan 2022
Location: herts
Posts: 2

Hi. From my experience before i had the original rear cross member replaced, I knocked out some holes in the rusty cross member at the ends of the chassis. Before i had it replaced i got a henry hover tube down it and sucked out most of the dirt and rust. It went in a couple of meters if i remember. Unfortunately i didn't complete the job before the welding took place. I'm just not comfortable making holes in new metal, feels sacrilegious. But it seems to be the best way to prep and clean it before treatment.

18th Jan 2022 4:14pm

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