Home > Maintenance & Modifications > bleeding brakes... would it help to wedge the pedal down? |
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donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841 |
Thanks Roel,
I had another look at it today, nearly broke out the pressure bleeder for a second time but contented myself with separating the master cylinder from the servo and checking all that out for any cracks and leaks. I decided I was good for about 3/4 of a turn outwards of the servo pushrod nut, and reassembled. On my test run there are definitely two pedals. First one is better than it was; second is brilliant! If I could just get to that as standard I'd be a very happy camper. I have left it with the pedal wedged down tonight just for the hell of it! We'll see if that makes a difference tomorrow. Both sets of calipers and pads are relatively new, so I don't think I've much to be gained there. While I was out, I did the 'servo check' again: press the brake pedal a few times to use the vacuum; press the pedal and start the engine. I definitely would not say there was a substantial or significant drop in the pedal as the vacuum built up again. I am still pondering a master cylinder swap..... but on the other hand, I've read so many brake bleeding threads on the web where others have done the same thing and not noticed a difference. Anyway, let's see what tomorrow brings! Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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6th Jun 2020 5:02pm |
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jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8030 |
Hoses are not expanding with pressure. Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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15th Oct 2022 7:07pm |
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donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841 |
Hi James,
I did leave the pedal pressed in overnight but I can’t really recall that it made a huge difference. It’s easy to try anyway. In my case I’m now sure that the issue was actually a loose wheel bearing. As you’ll know this is often suggested when someone asks about brake pedal travel. I was sceptical because I couldn’t feel any play but eventually circumstances dictated that I was away from home and had to have the OSF bearing changed at a garage. They did a poor job which I had to redo myself a couple of days later, and I saw that they hadn’t fitted the hub seal properly = new bearing still loose = wheel wobble + poor first pedal. Since I’ve fixed that (and tightened all three other corners as a precaution) I have a brake system I’m happy with. Do you have a front/rear bias valve fitted? I know it’s not standard on 110s but apparently some did. If so could that be playing up? Might that also explain the lower level of fluid coming through the rear calipers? Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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16th Oct 2022 9:11am |
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jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8030 |
No bias valve Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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16th Oct 2022 1:37pm |
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