 | Home > Technical > Parasitic load I think |
 
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4210   
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Sounds like something wrong with the split charge. It should separate the batteries at something like 12.5 or so volts. The manual should tell you.
I think the National Luna system has the option for a button to combine the batteries for jump starting. Maybe a fault with that circuit if you have it? That being said it still doesn't explain why your batteries are drained so low. Have you got any accessories fitted that could be drawing current? 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS |
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14th Feb 2020 12:58pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20382
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Best to test most suspicious circuits you think it may be. Often you’ll find the culprit.
I once had a permanently energised relay coil drawing about 120mA at rest that did it. It was incorrectly wired from previous owner. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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14th Feb 2020 3:46pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1917  
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I think i have a parasitic load on the main battery and the aux battery is also getting drained from it and maybe the solenoid is sticking open?
what reading am i looking for in mA? no accessories fitted at the moment i have got that far yet. There is a feature on the controller to manually open the solenoid, it self opens after 15 mins i think, i will have too check it shuts down when the engine is turned off  2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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14th Feb 2020 4:38pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20382
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Sorry I missed your post. Did you get this sorted?
I'd say up to 30mA max would typical load at rest, I think mine was around 21mA which seems to ring a bell. That is for factory security systems and radio memory etc. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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24th Feb 2020 7:38pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1917
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Hi Steve
Sorry been working away for a bit, I’ve disconnected the main battery from the split charge and at rest I have 26ma which I understand is correct? What I don't understand is the Nation Luna Solenoid has at rest a draw of 40ma coupled with the controller 20ma. So I have a total of 26+40+20= 86ma Surely I have missed something here? I put it all back together and tested the draw with both connected and I measured 89ma which is why my battery is in the red after a week to 10 days, and that’s both battery’s. 
 Click image to enlarge 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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8th Mar 2020 10:01am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20382
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Yes, that’s definitely too much current draw at rest.
When I had a load about 130mA on a relay coil in the past the battery would be dead in about 3 days max so the current you describe and time period check out. It seems in some way you have something energised permanent live that should be ignition on only as I see it. It definitely seems like you’ve found the culprit. What I would do is study the manuals if you have them or online or ask the manufacturer or both. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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8th Mar 2020 1:47pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1917
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Things have taken a drastic turn for the worst
So i put the defender back together with just the standard electrics and not the split charge because im pretty sure the solenoid is faulty. i took a reading of 11.6v Had a day off work today so cleaned the 110 inside and out 
I started the engine at 2.30 and let it idle for a while and then set off for the 3 mile trip on the school run, sat with the engine running for 20 mins waiting, kids got in and off we went for the 3 mile trip back, just as i set off my daughter said what's that smell? a few mins later a very eggy sulphur smell was present, i thought it was from out side, then took a longer ride home and a zip down the dual carriageway just to give it a blast, but the smell was getting worse, pulled up on the drive checked everything no sign of anything, until i thought what about the battery, i opened the seat box and a waft of sulphur, heat and fizzing noise from battery hit me! I immediately turned the engine off and grabbed the multi meter and found 13v, it was very hot, i then restarted the engine and found the alternator was charging at 14v. i immediately disconnected everything and removed the battery where its still fizzing and hot 20mins later on the drive. What can it be? its a red top Optima which was new (or led to believe its new) maybe a faulty Battery or ???? 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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13th Mar 2020 4:06pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731  
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Sorry about your problems. It seems the alternator is okay (mine charges at over 14v) and the battery is now fooked, maybe due to a very high load/short on it causing it to overheat when you're driving - it would seem to make sense if there is a parasitic load when you're not...
In any event, a few years back my battery kept draining every week or so until I realised the Scangauge was drawing significant current all the time from the OBD (about 80 mA). Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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13th Mar 2020 4:25pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1917
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Thanks for the info, it does sound plausible to have a big load or drain while driving, but how would i go about testing this one?
i might buy an oddesy battery but a bit hesitant to put it on until I've sorted the issue  2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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13th Mar 2020 6:13pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20382
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Sounds like a battery issue.
Are these batteries sealed or vented? If the latter then has the vent cap been removed and breather attached? Standard batteries are vented with a breather to the exterior, the smell you mention is something to be very careful of as it’s explosive in some cases. The battery should read about 12 - 12.4v at rest what is it now? Sounds like you have correct alternator charging voltage. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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13th Mar 2020 6:22pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1917
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I think it’s a battery issue just a hunch all has worked fine before I changed it, I changed because the original was loosing charge not bad for 8 years.
The Optimas are sealed units with no vents, I initially thought thought they were solid but just checked, and they full of sulphuric acid hence the smell, I was a bit worried to say the least taking it out but couldn’t leave it in there. I will check the volts in the morning,  2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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13th Mar 2020 7:02pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20382
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Yes, the chances are it is the battery if that is when it started.
As it has produced an aromatic output so to speak I would say it leaks, and sounds like it's wet cell too. I would be tending to wonder if it may have been dropped prior to purchase. 
Perhaps a hairline crack in the casing but above the acid level. I recently fitted this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yuasa-YBX5019-C...2749.l2649 I have found it to be really good so far, straight swap for the factory fit. Specs are actually an upgrade in AH and CCA specs and a battery condition indicator too. Made in Wales. I would consider contacting Optima Battery direct and see what they say. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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13th Mar 2020 7:33pm |
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| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 623  
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Remove the battery, let it be one day and measure voltage. Good battery should be 12,5V. Your looks like one shorted cell, so probably the voltage will be 10V or lower. With one or more shorted cells in battery the rest is heavilly overcharged, hence the acid smell. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo
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13th Mar 2020 8:03pm |
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| Stripygitface Member Since: 16 Sep 2014 Location: Kent Posts: 78 |
If you still have problems after trying batteries, the disconnect the alternator, and leave overnight, as if the diodes have gone then there will be a constant draw through it.
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14th Mar 2020 8:10am |
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