 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Fitting a bulkhead removal bar |
 
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| grafty99 Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: North Devon Posts: 4785   
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Depends if you are doing a full bulkhead removal or just the lowering bar.
Both allow for more leg room and seat recline. The full bulkhead removal is a very involved job, plan a couple of days and full interior removal to do properly. The drop bar is much easier and can be done in a morning (easier if the front seats are removed) Choose your garage wisely if you decide to go that route, cutting the rear tub needs to be done accurately.  2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200 Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton |
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24th Jun 2018 9:21am |
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| mark13 Member Since: 16 Apr 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 56 
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I was think of using this type of one, I guess this is the harder one!
 Just to visualise me starting this Click image to enlarge |
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24th Jun 2018 9:41am |
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| ssg Member Since: 01 Mar 2018 Location: North East Posts: 65
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Hi,
I did a full bulkhead removal and it wasn't bad at all. Took about 4 or 5 hours from start to finish on a 90 van. Seats and cubby removed, boot mat removed, sheet up anything else with decorating sheets just to stop the dust getting everywhere. The only parts that send sparks around are the steel reinforcing sections but most of those can be removed by drilling the pop rivets. Then use a grinder and slitting disc to do the main cuts. Ant intricate work is done by hand with a hacksaw blade. I finished off the cut edges with a file, painted and then covered with plastic U edging strip. If you are fairly handy and have the tools and half a day its and easy job. The Land Rover bar I bought of ebay (about 145 quid) came with instructions which was helpful. Take your time and give it a go! The results are brilliant, so much more space and feels much roomier. Unfortunately I am away from home or I would send some picture. |
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24th Jun 2018 9:57am |
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| mark13 Member Since: 16 Apr 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 56
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Thanks grafty99 and SSG for the advice.
A mate is helping me install a mezzanine in my barn who is a metal professional metal fabricator (ex aerospace) . I could ask him to bring a plasma cutter with him and as long as I mark it all out and remove the seats, matting etc is should be quite quick shouldn’t it? Being new to this stuff, would a pro on a plasma cutter be better than me with a grinder and jigsaw? I thought it would be cleaner and more accurate. |
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24th Jun 2018 10:58am |
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| Tdi4 Member Since: 24 Oct 2014 Location: Houten Posts: 513  
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I would say a pro with a grinder
I wouldn't use a plasma cutter inside the car and with a plasma cutter you have to grind/smoothen the edges. a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover |
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24th Jun 2018 11:03am |
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| ssg Member Since: 01 Mar 2018 Location: North East Posts: 65
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Agree, slitting disc goes like a hot knife through butter. I did a half removal with a jigsaw years ago and got ali dust everywhere.
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24th Jun 2018 11:07am |
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| mark13 Member Since: 16 Apr 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 56
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Doesn't the grinder produce dust aswell? If not I will definitely do that, I can do it myself (technical by trade) but lack the faith, I think I will abuse my friendships and get Nic to do the actual cutting.
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24th Jun 2018 11:23am |
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| Tdi4 Member Since: 24 Oct 2014 Location: Houten Posts: 513
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no dust, just a lot of sparks
A grinder is a very handy tool but I too was intimidated in the beginning. And now I'am using it quite a lot. Just start practising on something simple and get the confidence with it. And removing the bulkhead wouldn't be my first choice to start practising a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover |
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24th Jun 2018 11:38am |
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| Vitesse Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Sussex Posts: 381 
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&feature=share 2015 90 XS Santorini Black
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24th Jun 2018 12:59pm |
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| ssg Member Since: 01 Mar 2018 Location: North East Posts: 65
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No sparks from the Aluminium, just some dust but no where near as much as a jigsaw. Its only the capings which are steel and produce sparks but this is minimal as the capings can be removed by drilling the rivets.
Honestly its an easy job, just take your time. |
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24th Jun 2018 2:00pm |
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| ssg Member Since: 01 Mar 2018 Location: North East Posts: 65
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No need to remove the roof or side panels!
The video makes a meal of it! |
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24th Jun 2018 2:04pm |
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| Moneypit Member Since: 27 Feb 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 271 
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Did a full removal on mine but it was in bits so wasn't to bad to do. Found making up Ally angle pieces to reinforce the wheel wells and reshaping the capping far harder than cutting it out with a thin cutting disc in a grinder. There's a good picture guide on the web if you Google it.
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2nd Jul 2018 7:34pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
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I fitted the Mud one in mine, it's not a full removal but I still wanted most of the bulkhead left there.
That was pretty simple. |
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2nd Jul 2018 9:11pm |
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| Tazman Member Since: 07 Jul 2018 Location: Cork Posts: 2  
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Hello All
I am New to the forum but not new to Landrovers. I am also looking at doing the bulk head removal but not sure which way to go yes I know one way is harder than the other, the question is how much difference in space do you get in the front between the MUD version against the full bar version? It looks like in the mud version the seats still hit the bulkhead. All info much appreciated Thanks for your help  |
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8th Jul 2018 7:35pm |
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