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| LandymanStefan Member Since: 30 Aug 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 881   
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Is the op amp buffer an IC chip that can be replaced? Given this has happened I wouldn’t mind having a spare ecu that works. I’m just so lucky that it died on my drive and not when I was driving the salt road and camping in the alps last year.
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25th Mar 2020 1:58pm |
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| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 623  
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Both times op amp was ok, but some resistor around was bad - once it was just bad solder joint, the other was broken SMS resistor.
Both ECUs were working, but they needed "the right" output voltage from CPS to work correctly, so in real life it was not good for long time use. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo  |
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25th Mar 2020 2:40pm |
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| LandymanStefan Member Since: 30 Aug 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 881
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Interesting.
Out of curiosity are you an electrical wizard or is checking this circuit in the ecu something I may be able to do and repair so I can keep it as a spare? |
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25th Mar 2020 6:21pm |
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| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 623
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Wizard? No, I have just a master degree from electrotechnics, and 15 years of experience in R&D. Land Rover is just a hobby, but I have lot of friends with Land Rovers, and they need some help with cables. And this was just the first step from LR owner to mechanic, and to a part time job. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo
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25th Mar 2020 8:58pm |
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| LandymanStefan Member Since: 30 Aug 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 881
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So I thought I’d update the thread. My new wiring loom from Martin came today so I have a separate loom dedicated for my crank sensor. The old wiring was slightly damaged, copper was visible and I hated the angle of how the original wiring gets bent straight out of the plug. I asked Martin for a 3m one which is slightly too long but that’s much easier to resolve than too short. I’ve run the cable out of the plug in the direction of the plug, put a nice gradual bent in it to go towards the back of the vehicle. Cable tied it to a bracket which comes off the footwell and does nothing as far as I can see. (Perhaps something’s fallen off) then sent it down the top of the chassis rail on top of the fuel lines. As it’s a bit too long I’ve tied it as far back further than it needs to be towards the fuel filter then given it a smooth bend up to the seat box and in through the original rubber bung. As it was supplied with the pins ready for the red plug I’ve fitted it in and it looks almost stock.
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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4th Apr 2020 9:36pm |
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