![]() | Home > Off Topic > Ramps / lifts 2 or 4 post? |
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ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1849 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Hope someone can advise - I thought I was looking for something like a Bradbury (?) 4 post lift with a set of wheel free bars probably because in the past - 20 years plus - that is what I've used.
These I'm now advised are old hat and what I really need is a two post ramp. I've seen all sorts of youtube vids with cars falling off and breaking in half on a two post, but there again there are vids of cars & people falling into pits which must be the simplest and safest version of servicing technology going. I want to service & repair my 110, looking to restore another possibly 90 in the future, what do people use? Cheers Keith |
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Joe the Plumber Member Since: 18 Dec 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 921 ![]() ![]() |
I've used a two post four-ton one many times and it's happily lifted my 110 in safety.
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rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2238 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
What type of floor do you have? Two post needs much more substantial anchoring than a four post one. I believe some two post ramps have a brace/bridge over the top but they will limit height for a defender too much.
Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17698 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Chassis rails.
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ajac8 Member Since: 23 Jun 2016 Location: In the middle Posts: 30 ![]() |
I brought one of these last year. Great bit of kit.
https://sm-t.co.uk/product/montford-mid-rise-scissor-lift/ I regularly lift my RRClassic and 322. All 4 wheels can be removed and access to underneath is perfectly fine despite the cross member. Well worth looking at. ![]() 2010 TDV8 Vogue SE Range Rover 1994 Hard Dash Classic (was once in in bits) |
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TJ101 Member Since: 30 May 2007 Location: Taunton Somerset Posts: 3750 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
As said,, the ground you intent to fit the lift will make a difference ??
Personally I would go for a good old Bradbury , bar for replacing the cable and odd roller, the one i have is best part of 25 year old, maybe more 2 Post lifts, are easier for general service work, no messing with the beams to get wheel free etc, OK they are in used everyday, but if they last 4/6 years, it good going, without spending thousands on them, don't seem to make any difference if a good or cheap make . Last one was a Stenhoj , in 4 years have spend more repairing the thing,than it cost when new ![]() Main Brian James Trailer Dealer for South West UK |
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ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1849 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks all!
Interesting to know about 2 post repair costs, I've not long laid the floor 200mm of concrete over a compacted sub base with two layers of 100mm reinforcing mesh. I think I'll carry on looking for the 4 post with wheel free - old technology that'll suit the user and the car! Cheers again Keith |
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Joe the Plumber Member Since: 18 Dec 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 921 ![]() ![]() |
My floor is 4" concrete. The chap who installed the lift said it really needed to be at least 6" to take four tons, but it would be fine for the 110. It's been in for ten years and no problems so far.
If you've got a 200mm floor, you're laughing. I can't post a link to mine as it's no longer made, but it is Chinese with modifications to bring it up to EU standards. It's single phase and has no top crossbar. I use the chassis rails for lifting. |
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grafty99 Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: North Devon Posts: 4800 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
With regards to working height, I have a 2 post lift at home and my defender will go all the way up on the ramp and I can stand up underneath it (I'm 6'4")
Another advantage to 2 posters is that there is so much more to free space underneath ![]() ![]() Click image to enlarge Our ramp is a rotary model and is rated for 3.2T (takes an L322 no problem) 2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon 1990 Vogue SE Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200 Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton |
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ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1849 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
OK I've bought a Bradbury 4 post with wheel free on the E of Bay, it might be a bit of a squeeze but confident I can get it in the barn.
I have to disassemble it to get it on the trailer and ferry, does anyone have any info or experience in taking one apart? I've tried youtube etc without luck. Cheers Keith |
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discomog Member Since: 09 May 2015 Location: Notts/Lincs Border Posts: 2535 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I think you've done the right thing buying a wheel free Bradbury four poster and yes they may be old technology but they're extremely reliable. My best friend's father bought one in 1969 for his small garage business. His father has long since died and he has retired from the business. I called at the garage the other day and the Bradbury was up in the air with a van on it and still earning its keep some 51 years later
![]() Have you tried this website for a manual to assist in dismantling and re-installing? http://garageequipmentshop.com/index.php?l=product_list&c=38 Defender 90XS SW Mini Countryman Cooper S Morgan Plus 8 |
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v8bob Member Since: 14 Mar 2018 Location: Midlands Posts: 331 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I picked up, no I didn’t pick it up, I collected 2 of these on different occasions.
They are really big and heavy. They are pretty simple. Just slot together once you drop the cables out. But they are really heavy. And they have oil in, it will make a mess. If it the same as mine - 3.5t capacity early round post type. You have 2 really heavy 18 foot long lumps of metal for driving on. These will need a fork lift to move/load. These are held to the cross beams by pins that just drop in. If you have the wheel free beams, then 2 of these and the front and rear cross beams 3 corner posts and a heavy hydraulic ram. Look after the pins and the rollers that just fall off when taken apart. Plus the motor/pump. Takes a bit of time to remove the cables, but easy enough. I am happy to help with any info if it is like mine. Bob |
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ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1849 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Discomog - many thanks, looks like its the correct one and it will give me the correct cable runs etc when reassembling. I tried printing it but the quality is poor - will look on ebay for an original copy as all the other links appear to be dead ends.
V8bob - again many thanks, I was looking at what actually held / guided the ramp and wheel frees. Its been a long time since I looked at one with any interest and from DM's link it appears that very little stops the wheel runs from swinging in the breeze - how are the wheel free ends guided in place or once the cables are undone and the pillars unbolted does it all just lift away? As for a forklift, I've got a tirfor, hi lift and a Garry at the loading end and tirfgor hi lift and gravity at the other, I'll let you know how we get on! Cheers Keith |
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v8bob Member Since: 14 Mar 2018 Location: Midlands Posts: 331 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
It is not easy to find any pictures like my one.
This is very similar to mine: ![]() This shows the wheel free in action The yellow bits are the wheel free only bits. The long front to back Yellow beams slide on little rollers across the width of the yellow cross beam at each end. When you have lined them up you push in the little lever just by the post. Then lower the platforms out of the way and leave the vehicle up in the air on the yellow beams. To take apart; The yellow front to back beams just lift off. Once the cables are off, you pop the little pins out and then the ends can be pulled off leaving the 2 separate platforms. The ends will be two sets of cross beams, one for main ramp and one for wheel free. Mine had lights so wiring also needs cutting for these. If you have any pictures I can say if yours is the same as mine or not. |
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