 | Home > Td5 > Rough running — possibly only 4 cylinders |
 
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| Setok Member Since: 16 Jan 2009 Location: Helsinki Posts: 422  
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We just got back from doing a Baltic tour (read about it here: http://travellingsalesman.mobi/). However now the Landy is running quite rough. The whole car feels like it is shaking and the sound seems like it might only be running on 4 cylinders.
Initially it appeared after a few moments of running. Then when reaching temperature, turning it off and firing up again seemed to help, at least for a while. Just recently that doesn't seem to be working either. Or the shaking returns very quickly. You can hear it change. Additionally it seems like the fan is constantly running. I looked externally at the ECU plug (as I'm not sure if it's OK to pull it out without removing the battery too), and didn't see any telltale signs of oil. OTOH it could be on the inside of the plug. Though I'm not sure why it would start shaking only after a while, and why the fan would be running. Things which may or may not be related: some of the Latvian roads were very rough with a good bit of shaking. Not anything I would have thought the Landy couldn't handle. Also on Monday it was pouring down with very heavy rain. No leaks inside, though. Any ideas? It's a 2003 TD5.[/url] |
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14th Jun 2011 8:32pm |
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| Zinke Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Scunthorpe Posts: 670  
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Pull the red plug off the ECU and see if there is oil inside, there is a seal in there so it doesnt normally leak out untill its really bad. My betting is there will be oil there. You are safe to unplug the either plug on the ECU as long as the ignition is turned off.
Pete. |
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15th Jun 2011 12:36am |
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| Zinke Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Scunthorpe Posts: 670
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If your not sure then disconnect the battery but in reality there is no need to, but sometimes its better to be safe than sorry. Even if the engine was running at the time then i think all it would do is create some fault codes.
I really cant see what you would gain by removing the whole ECU before disconnecting. At the moment im removing my red plug at least once a day to try a flush out the oil thats in the main loom after replacing the injector loom and i never disconnect the batter and have no problems or faults caused by doing this but as i said before just disconnect the battery if your unsure. Pete. |
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15th Jun 2011 4:58pm |
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| Setok Member Since: 16 Jan 2009 Location: Helsinki Posts: 422
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OK, I removed the connector and it's completely bone dry. I guess that's good. However the vibration continues. It's clearly not firing on all cylinders.
I can't figure out why the fan is running constantly. And why, initially, a reboot seemed to help. Now it runs smoothly for maybe a couple of seconds and then continues to be rough. High revs seem to smooth it out a bit, but that might be just that it's not as easy to spot then. I had a look under the engine noise cover, and I noticed an interesting thing: the component that I think is related to the EGR thingy has a rubber pipe that should presumably go into a metallic bit. At least that's what it looks like in the Haynes manual. However they are not connected and there's a screw inside the rubber pipe. The metal bit is open. Probably not related. Or could it be? |
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15th Jun 2011 8:49pm |
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| Zinke Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Scunthorpe Posts: 670
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Did you remove the white lock plate in the plug and looked behind that? In the early stages there my just be a trace of oil behind it, worth looking as it just pops off.
The pipes to the EGR is just a crude was to blank it off, it will in no way cause the problems you have. By the sounds of it you really need it connecting to a diagnostic computer to see what fault codes if any are there and look at the live fuelling data (cylinder balances would be the main ones to look at). Also a long shot but worth checking would be engine and gearbox mounts as they can often fail and let things move around, prob not this but worth a check. Pete. |
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15th Jun 2011 10:04pm |
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| Setok Member Since: 16 Jan 2009 Location: Helsinki Posts: 422
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OK, no I didn't look behind the white plate. I didn't realise it comes off. I'll have a look.
It's going in to the stealers for a look (the AC needs repairing) next week. I just would have had a use for it today, and more over the weekend. Now I'm quite wary about driving it as I'm concerned of the damage it might do to run it in this condition. My first thoughts were the engine mounts too, but I don't think it's that as you can quite clearly hear it run rough. And you can hear when it suddenly changes from smooth to rough. On the EGR thing, it's normal to blank off only the other pipe? No idea how that works. Any idea why the fan would constantly be running at high speed? |
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16th Jun 2011 4:53am |
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| Zinke Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Scunthorpe Posts: 670
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Yeh its fairly normal to blank or remove the EGR, mine is fitted with a kit that totally removes the valve giving better air flow into the engine. The EGR isnt good for the engine but is good for the emissions.
The fan will turn all the time the engine is running, if it sounds like its working hard all the time it could be the viscous drive thats faulty. Pete. |
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16th Jun 2011 9:06am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Faulty injector perhaps
 They can determine which one is faulty these days but in the past they used to replace the lot  |
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16th Jun 2011 10:32am |
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| Setok Member Since: 16 Jan 2009 Location: Helsinki Posts: 422
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Oh the fan is definitely working hard. You can hear it spin up very shortly after starting. This never happened before so my thinking is it must be related to the rough running, but how?
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16th Jun 2011 12:30pm |
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| JSG Member Since: 12 Jul 2007 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2412 
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How hot is the engine getting? The only time I had a viscous fan coming on all the time was on my old P38. When the rad and intercooler came out to get to the fan they were clogged with weed from the lake at Billing. Cleaning the rad and intercooler out cured the problem.
It may be your engine is overheating and that is causing the problem. John http://www.hampshire4x4response.co.uk 2011 Tdci 110 CSW XS |
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16th Jun 2011 12:36pm |
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| Setok Member Since: 16 Jan 2009 Location: Helsinki Posts: 422
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The guage is sitting at approximately its usual position. It might just be me but I think it's getting there quicker than normal. Then again, I haven't exactly been measuring it before.
Could it also be the other way round? A faulty injector/running that causes the engine to heat up more/quickly because of more intensive vibrations? |
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16th Jun 2011 12:46pm |
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| Setok Member Since: 16 Jan 2009 Location: Helsinki Posts: 422
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OK, looked behind the white bit and interestingly there was a bit of oily residue there. Not very much, and it was kind of yellowy orange in colour, which I thought was odd. But maybe it really was very thin oil. I cleaned that up as well as I could, but alas it made no difference.
Again, it ran smooth for maybe 2–3 seconds on firing up, and then returned to rough. Not understanding ECUs and that kind of stuff, I can't figure why it would run like that. I guess we should've imported a TDI! |
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16th Jun 2011 7:54pm |
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| Setok Member Since: 16 Jan 2009 Location: Helsinki Posts: 422
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And we'd really have a use for it this weekend, so how much damage do you think it might cause to run it like this? Not long trips, but out and about to collect bits and bobs.
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16th Jun 2011 7:57pm |
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| Setok Member Since: 16 Jan 2009 Location: Helsinki Posts: 422
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OK, seems to be sorted. The dealer swapped in a new injector loom and so far everything is good. I still think the fan might be coming on earlier than before, but it might be I have just become more sensitive to it. Plus the radiator is full of insects...
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25th Jun 2011 9:26pm |
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