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BrunoJ

Member Since: 14 Sep 2019
Location: Stavanger
Posts: 78

2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green

2.2 with overheating problem - still worth to try?

I'm considering to buy the 2012 one-ten from my colleague, who is the first owner. Looks like the car has no luck about the engine (or user treat it too hard on highways?). Original engine was changes after 58kkm, after overhearing story and oil-coolant mixing issue, which couldn't be solve simply by gasket change (replacement on warranty). New engine has an issue at c.a.85kkm - lost of coolant (water pomp leak or so) during "high" speed on highway, resulting the overheat. That was fixed with change of head gasket and peripherals in authorized service. It was about one year ago, 12kkm till now without issues.
Assuming I'll buy it - should I already put on a side the money for new engine? (no warranty any more). Looks like permanent, repeatable issues with cooling, and potentially unknown condition of head. Although I found these issues described here on the forum, I don't see anyone who really killed the engine, twice...
Overall car condition is not bad, although is was not polished every Saturday in the garage

. Some rust protection will be required very soon. Also fact it is coming from first owner and history in known. Except the engine, nothing significant, no heavy offroad usage, no accidents. Ok, some 'smell' service is required as owner was smoking and traveling with dogs, but that is manageable.

Is it any way I can verify current condition of engine/cooling system in more details then just test ride?
Before digging into service history I was mostly afraid about the rust, now I'm really scary about the engine, which can generate dramatic extra cost, plus stop the car for long weeks. Which will kill the fun definitely.

Any hints? suggestions?

16th Sep 2019 8:50pm

NickMc

Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1676

If it's been repaired ok and it's covered that mileage it may be ok now.

For testing the system you can do the following:

You could Pressure test the system?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Festnight-Radiato...lp_pl_dp_7

You could do a "sniff" test:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/COMBUSTION-LEAK-K...B018PM3ZFQ

You can also get a dye that shows up un Ultra violet light that you can put in the coolant.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Torch-Detection-C...B00TU8VCB4

You can get aftermarket ODB II and temperature sensors that you could fit to monitor the engine as well.

16th Sep 2019 9:50pm

BrunoJ

Member Since: 14 Sep 2019
Location: Stavanger
Posts: 78

Thanks for hints. I plan to bring the car into the service for detailed inspection anyway, engine condition will be one of major point.
I’ll read more about odb2, I was also thinking about fitting coolant level sensor, which could give me early warning.

17th Sep 2019 2:30am

Julie

Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: Nantes
Posts: 550

If it ran too often too fast on the motorway it would have DPF problems.
If you carefully read the user manual, you'll find out, that the cleaning process won't be started if you drive faster than 110 km/h

17th Sep 2019 8:23pm

BrunoJ

Member Since: 14 Sep 2019
Location: Stavanger
Posts: 78

Thanks, good to know. As far as I know, can has never the issue with DPF.
Car runs via Europe once a year typically. Regular daily usage in Norway is definitely below 110km/h.
Twice till now air pipe failed - so another "typical' issue, fortunately fixed recently, so should be ok for next few years.

17th Sep 2019 11:12pm

BrunoJ

Member Since: 14 Sep 2019
Location: Stavanger
Posts: 78

After two weeks of various riding conditions I didn't found any issues related to the engine temperature. Looks like it is not the issue, at least at this moment.
If I would have some doubts about the engine noise. I would say it is typical diesel sound, I found in other cars. Kind of bass resonance, within specific range of engine speed. However, in my S-Max (2.0Tdci) it is around 3000rpm, while in Defender is it rather 1600-1800. And this is a problem, because this is quite useful range, e.g. 6 gear with 80km/h for most of Norwegian roads. Most of modern diesels works fine between 1500-2500 (and quite often also below), here I have to keep the engine at 2000 and above to avoid this unpleasant sound. Should I just avoid lower range? or could it be a symptom something is wrong? (engine mounting point? clutch? other?)

Actually I have quite long list of "questions" after trial period, e.g. steering wheel is not straight and car has a tendency to turn right, or occasional noise from rear right schaft (or around) during clutch releasing, while changing gears up (mainly 2nd and 3rd) etc. But I'll inspect the car in dedicated service next week, so I hope to have complete diagnose and list of urgent and less urgent issues to fix. I still like this car

more and more

2nd Oct 2019 9:57pm

Big Harold

Member Since: 09 Jul 2018
Location: nsw
Posts: 71

2015 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Alpine White

I have a 2014 2.2 Defender and have found that when driving you have to keep the revs in the torque band .
It is above 2000rpm if you let the engine fall below this in any gear but especially 6th you loose torque.
I have also found that if I let the engine fall below 2000rpm then come to a slight grade the engine loads up and the EGT temps will rise causing the coolant temp to follow.
Changing back a gear and letting it rev gets the exhaust gas flowing and cools everything down.
I now drive my Defender off the EGT temps.
Mark

2nd Oct 2019 11:51pm

BrunoJ

Member Since: 14 Sep 2019
Location: Stavanger
Posts: 78

Thanks for your explanation, in my case it looks exactly as you described. No issue to keep the engine at 2k and up.

3rd Oct 2019 3:33pm

Big Harold

Member Since: 09 Jul 2018
Location: nsw
Posts: 71

No problems as before 6 speeds engine speed was higher.
I would fit an EGT and better coolant temp gauge.
DO NOT RELY ON THE STANDARD COOLANT TEMP GAUGE ON THE DASH.
Mine doesn't move between 85 - 115 DEg C

3rd Oct 2019 9:50pm

BrunoJ

Member Since: 14 Sep 2019
Location: Stavanger
Posts: 78

Thanks for hints. It can be good catch, I found the coolant temperature moreless staying at 85, doesn't matter how 'aggressive' (big word...) I'm driving. A I assuming it could be ok, considering 6-8 deg (C) outside with 'fresh' wind.
I'm still not the owner, so any eventual changes/upgrade will be done afterwards. Fortunately I don't have much to add inside the car, most of factory options are there already. So main investment focus can be on additional sensors and gauges, why not.

4th Oct 2019 8:15am

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