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MussEd



Member Since: 20 Feb 2013
Location: East Lothian
Posts: 354

Scotland 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Baltic Blue
Tapping into reverse light - how?
Loads of research about reversing cameras has thrown up the need to use the power from the reverse light. Fairy happy with the splicing. My question is how to actually access the back of the reverse light to do this? Car is a MY13 2.2 Puma btw. Thanks for any advice...
Post #787782 19th Aug 2019 8:19pm
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newton-tony



Member Since: 18 Sep 2016
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 122

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Firenze Red
I just removed my reverse light, plus the panel to the left of the rear door and was able to pass the wire through and splice
Post #787787 19th Aug 2019 8:35pm
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seriesonenut



Member Since: 19 Nov 2014
Location: Essex
Posts: 1211

United Kingdom 
That's how I did it as well. I added a fuse at that point so I could be sure the RL would not be impacted by the camera in the future. Thumbs Up 2010 XS USW
1957 Series One 88 diesel
1958 Series One 88 4x2
Post #787788 19th Aug 2019 8:47pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20359

United Kingdom 
You can either remove the reverse light and feed though there and then reach in from under the wheel arch to up behind there to the grommet behind the plastic mud shield.

I'm guessing your issue your asking about is how to thread the signal feed though the panel grommet?
If so I've done this just yesterday.

Use a stiff wire or in my case I used some old surplus pvc tubing, threaded down from behind the speaker panel until you can reach it behind the mud shield also. Ideally long enough to be easily accessible.
Then you can attach the feed you want threaded though to the wire or similar with something like electrical tape and carefully draw it back up though where you want it behind the speaker panel. I terminated mine there with a 1pole Superseal with a capped /sealed plug on that's fiitted for the time being until I want to use it. Then plug and play ready to go and even waterproof too. (With fuse in-line.)

The wire threading is tricky I admit, but easily doable. In my case and the same should apply to you also, you should be able to leave your reverse light alone and do it all from the rear just below the mud shield. Just make sure the Econoseal plugs stay clean especially if temporarily disconnected. (But this depends if you have factory reverse light or LED aftermarket.)
If factory, then you likely will need to remove the reverse light too for better access and easily done?
I can't reach mine in situ due to being after market LED. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #787790 19th Aug 2019 8:55pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1624

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
I'd use the crimp connectors with the heat shrink and glue (not the solder type the dont seem to last) as this area always collects dirt and moisture, id say its one of the most common faults i see on Defenders week in week out- corroded or damaged rear light wiring.
Post #787797 19th Aug 2019 9:08pm
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MussEd



Member Since: 20 Feb 2013
Location: East Lothian
Posts: 354

Scotland 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Baltic Blue
Great stuff folks. Fitted a load of soundproofing and carpet earlier in the summer so that speaker panel will be a right pain to
remove. And that’s before worrying about the wire manoeuvres...maybe just stick to using the NAS step as a parking aid!
Post #787804 19th Aug 2019 9:30pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
When I needed to do this, I used a male and female Econoseal connector to make up a short lead to fit between the existing wiring and lamp that included an extra, loose, wire to the positive terminal. This extra wire was then passed up through the rubber grommet in the wheel box above and taken to where I needed it.

I haven't got a picture, unfortunately, but I have got this of a similar lead that I made up to take feeds from the stop and tail lights, which should give you the idea:


Click image to enlarge


In this general view of the area behind the nearside speaker panel, the yellow wire is the tapped feed from the reverse light and the black connector in the centre is the one shown above that taps the stop and tail lights:


Click image to enlarge
 Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #787834 20th Aug 2019 6:54am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5699

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Pinched mine from the tow bar electrics.
Post #787836 20th Aug 2019 7:08am
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leonvh



Member Since: 31 Dec 2013
Location: Plombières
Posts: 69

Belgium 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Barolo Black
My initial setup with the reversing camera was also using a signal from the reversing light. But when maneuvering backwards and forwards the image would keep switching on and off all the time. Very annoying, so now I use a simple switch to activate the image from the reversing camera on my screen. One extra action is needed, but for me it has only benefits as I can also use the camera when not in reverse...
Post #787851 20th Aug 2019 9:48am
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MussEd



Member Since: 20 Feb 2013
Location: East Lothian
Posts: 354

Scotland 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Baltic Blue
LandRoverAnorak wrote:
When I needed to do this, I used a male and female Econoseal connector to make up a short lead to fit between the existing wiring and lamp that included an extra, loose, wire to the positive terminal. This extra wire was then passed up through the rubber grommet in the wheel box above and taken to where I needed it.

I haven't got a picture, unfortunately, but I have got this of a similar lead that I made up to take feeds from the stop and tail lights, which should give you the idea:


Click image to enlarge


In this general view of the area behind the nearside speaker panel, the yellow wire is the tapped feed from the reverse light and the black connector in the centre is the one shown above that taps the stop and tail lights:


Click image to enlarge


That looks amazing but far too involved for my meagre talents and limited skills!

The tow bar electrics are right next to where I Intend to mount the camera so that option makes sense...
Post #787859 20th Aug 2019 10:54am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20359

United Kingdom 
I did much the same as LRA did too. It works well.
I’d have thought if you wanted a permanent rear cam and reverse feed auto on all you’d need to do is the reverse signal would auto turn on.
If the rear cam is permanently live with ignition on simply select as a source on the HU and it will be on.
If the HU has video source reverse in and a source 1 in or 1 & 2 in additional then just use a video RCA Y splitter.
But yes, you can use a switch if you want as well. Even an On 1 with reverse only / Off / On permanent. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #787969 20th Aug 2019 9:20pm
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jeffersj



Member Since: 23 Jan 2015
Location: Near Preston
Posts: 431

United Kingdom 1996 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Bronze Green
I would like to get that earthing bracket shown on the photos to improve the earth in the 300Tdi, any idea of the part number or is it widely available elsewhere? Jeff
Ex 1968 Series 2A
Ex 90 TD5
Ex D3
Ex D4
Post #797553 10th Oct 2019 12:06pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
That's just an offcut of some aluminium angle that I cut to size, drilled full of holes and bolted to the tub (having first cleaned off a bit of paint to ensure a good contact). Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #797554 10th Oct 2019 12:11pm
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