 | Home > Technical > Heated rear window wiring for windscreen |
 
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| Cubflyer Member Since: 25 Sep 2021 Location: Suffolk Posts: 278   
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Nice thought Chris ... cracking idea
Hopefully comments will come flowing in, personally can't see why it wouldn't work  2010 Defender 90 300Tdi CW (White/1994)
2021 Defender 90 300Tdi SW (Blue/1994) |
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1st Mar 2022 1:14pm |
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| ibexman Member Since: 13 Dec 2008 Location: Essex Posts: 2954
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Hopefully 👍
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1st Mar 2022 1:22pm |
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| Race.it Member Since: 27 Aug 2019 Location: Algeciras Posts: 827  
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is not the front one on a timer? dont think the rear one is? Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.
5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details |
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1st Mar 2022 1:33pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 320 
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It’s possible but you’d want the switch to trigger a timer which in turn powers a relay (big one, 70 amp). The HFS shouldn’t be left on permanently, you will burn out the elements. Mine is on for 7 minutes which is ample. You can easily source a timer for this but they aren’t rated for the current drawn by a HFS, this is why the 12v output from the timer energises the coil of the appropriately large relay.
There’s no reason why you couldn’t leave the HRW wiring in place and piggy back a feed from the white/black wire to the timer. That way you could have both on at the same time. If you don’t want the HRW you can just push the switch again to cancel the HRW. The HFS draws high current so use some appropriately sized cable to cope with the load and the same for the earth. The proper factory solution interacts with the oil pressure switch so you can’t have the HFS without the engine running. If you’re going to use the latching HRW switch you’d need to be careful that you don’t forget it’s ‘on’ when you are starting the engine, then you’ll be trying to crank the engine while the HFS is consuming watts at an alarming rate. |
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1st Mar 2022 1:36pm |
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