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Lionel

Member Since: 12 Aug 2008
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 59

A frame castellated nut - size?

Hi,

I'll soon need to replace the A frame ball joint on my Defender 2004 TD5 Xtreme.

I want to replace the unit complete (with housing), but would like to undo the castellated nut & try to break the taper with the old unit in place before removing it.

Does anyone know the exact size of the spanner needed. There is only room for a ring spanner, unfortunately, & I'll have to buy one.

It is 28-30mm approx. (1 1/8 AF maybe?).

Any information would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Lionel

22nd Jul 2021 1:09am

Oldowner

Member Since: 26 Dec 2018
Location: South west
Posts: 623

2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Aintree Green

30mm. It doesn’t look it but there is room to get a 1/2” drive 30mm socket on there quite easily

22nd Jul 2021 3:48am

dorsetsmith

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

1/2” drive 30mm 6 point socket with mods so it fits

not more 42mm in Hight and with 45 ground off drive end socket

Click image to enlarge

22nd Jul 2021 7:19am

Oldowner

Member Since: 26 Dec 2018
Location: South west
Posts: 623

Elora 30mm 1/2” drive sockets fit straight in with mods

22nd Jul 2021 10:09am

Lionel

Member Since: 12 Aug 2008
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 59

Thanks people,

Quote:
30mm. It doesn’t look it but there is room to get a 1/2” drive 30mm socket on there quite easily

My model doesn't have enough space between the diff casing to allow use of a socket. (Rover diff - not Salisbury). Seems to vary beween models quite a lot.

Quote:
1/2” drive 30mm 6 point socket with mods so it fits

not more 42mm in Hight and with 45 ground off drive end socket

A good suggestion, but I'll try a 30mm ring spanner first, & if it won't loosen I'll probably resort to drilling the nut & a belt with the cold chisel to split it!

Cheers,

Lionel

23rd Jul 2021 3:02am

LandymanStefan

Member Since: 30 Aug 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 881

Ive just done mine and swapped for a gwyn lewis one.

Removed with a 30mm 1/2" socket but has to be done up with a 30mm ring spanner on a 90.

Jack the body high enough so the spanner doesnt foul on the tank.

Will add pictures

23rd Jul 2021 7:42pm

LandymanStefan

Member Since: 30 Aug 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 881

Click image to enlarge

23rd Jul 2021 7:43pm

Lionel

Member Since: 12 Aug 2008
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 59

Thanks LandymanStefan,

My 2004 110 TD5 has a P38 rear diff, & the bracket which the 30mm nut attaches to is welded to the diff casing. (Looks like your 90 is the same). This removes the option of removing the whole thing & working with a vice on the bench. (Grrr!!)

A colleague on another forum has directed me to a Daytona 30mm impact 6 point socket which is 42mm in height & should fit. He has the same setup on his 2005 TD5 as on mine, so hopefully that will work.

Cheers,

Lionel

24th Jul 2021 4:10am

LandymanStefan

Member Since: 30 Aug 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 881

I got my impact socket in to remove it but when I comes to tightening there’s no chance. I bought 2 extra different shaped sockets, standard and and stubby impact one. Neither would go near it.

24th Jul 2021 6:51am

Lionel

Member Since: 12 Aug 2008
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 59

LandymanStefan wrote:
I got my impact socket in to remove it but when I comes to tightening there’s no chance. I bought 2 extra different shaped sockets, standard and and stubby impact one. Neither would go near it.

That's interesting! Why would you be able to undo the nut with a socket, but not be able to tighten the new one?

Was it something to do with the characteristics of the Gwyn Lewis replacement assembly? If so, that is disappointing, as I was thinking of ordering one for mine.

Cheers,

Lionel

24th Jul 2021 7:17am

LandymanStefan

Member Since: 30 Aug 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 881

I think it’s just the position of the nut when it’s at the bottom of the thread. Nearer the bottom of the thread you’re closer to the axle and you can’t squeeze the socket in. When I was undoing it I can’t say I was on it square either just managed to blitz it off.

24th Jul 2021 9:31am

Lionel

Member Since: 12 Aug 2008
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 59

Just a follow up. I did the job last Wednesday & it was not too easy, mainly due to a ferociously tight castellated nut. I had obtained a Daytona 30mm impact socket, & modified it as dorsetsmith suggested, so no problem there. Thanks very much for the info.

My Milwaukee 18V impact driver wouldn't go near undoing the nut, which shocked me rather, as it was the 1st time the Milwaukee had failed to undo anything previously on the Defender! Heating up the nut with a small blow torch got it to undo though.

The next thing was the taper joint which was MOST reluctant to separate. I had the car on axle stands under the chassis to take the weight off the wheels, but I also put a jack under the A frame bracket itself to lift the wheels just off the floor, so the whole weight of the rear axle & wheels was held by the taper joint. Then I used the blow torch again. After about 2 minutes of heating, the taper separated with a very satisfying BANG.

After that it was very straightforward to clean everything up & fit the new bracket assembly. Although there seemed to be very little play in the old one (the boot was split), the car does feel better on the road, so there must have been a little bit of unwanted axle movement.

All good, & thanks to you all for your help.

Cheers,

Lionel

14th Aug 2021 1:31am

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