 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > window block bolt removal - any suggestions? |
 
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1845  
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Hi,
As usual, tried a wee search, and nothing came up in the first couple of pages. I tried removing my window blocks today, to fit new ones bought from Huttopia here. On the first one (ns) the two lower bolts through the bulkead came off fine; the top one, through the aluminium window frame just sheared. On the other side, I was expecting the worse, but they all came out OK. So I'm left with one bolt that seems very solidly stuck into the windscreen frame. Good, old alu/steel corrosion again. It won't budge with a punch and hammer. I gave it some hefty thumps, but any harder and i'm worried I'll do more damage. I don't think I can get any heat in there without melting other stuff..... I've left it with some plusgas soaking in, but the only thing I can think to do is to drill it out; starting small, then progressively bigger drills. Has anyone else tackled this (i assume so) and what other options might I have? Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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22nd Mar 2019 8:17pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3645  
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i think I would try what you suggest and drill it out bit by bit DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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23rd Mar 2019 7:51am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1845
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Thanks,
It also occurred to me that this could be the moment to buy a 'proper' stud extractor set. I have some cheapies, but one of them broke - split into two - the first time I tried to use it. An Irwin set is about £30 and I'd always found excuses to get something else, but I might give that a go first. If it works, it'll be £30 very well spent. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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23rd Mar 2019 9:07am |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5729 
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Drill it out would be my choice. You’ve just got to start very small, and get the first hole spot on central and accurate then the rest is easy.
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23rd Mar 2019 10:13am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1845
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Well, I did get a better set of bolt/stud extractors, but there just wasn't enough of it left to get a grip on, so drilling it out was the only option. 3mm > 4mm > 6mm.
I obviously didn't get it completely centered, but not too bad.  Click image to enlarge Even at this stage I needed to use a long thin punch to drive it out. Aaand, it's not a pretty sight underneath. Click image to enlarge I'll tidy it up, and see if I can get a reasonably level surface for painting/sealing. I might also see if I can pick up a spare for future use in needed. At least a windscreen frame is easier to replace than a bulkhead. Thanks again for the advice. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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23rd Mar 2019 7:49pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3645
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well done mate, lots of Wax when you reassemble DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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23rd Mar 2019 7:53pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1845
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Thanks!
I know I'll need to do something to keep the metals apart on re-assembly. I was thinking duralac - which I use quite regularly - or maybe even wrapping the bolts in plumbers PTFE tape. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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23rd Mar 2019 8:05pm |
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| PCM Member Since: 25 Jan 2019 Location: North East Posts: 874
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You can add a gasket as shown bu Powerful as an extra barrier.
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23rd Mar 2019 8:22pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1845
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Thanks. Yeah, I bought the window blocks from Huttopia on here. He supplied a good gasket set.
But actually I think there are two problems. The first is the thread in the block itself, where a steel bolt is threaded into an aluminium thread; second is the hole in the window frame that the bolt passes through. In the one above, I think the corrosion had happened in both of these places. I'm sure that keeping the water out in the first place will reduce the amount of bi-metal corrosion, but it probably needs a little more than that in the long run? Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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23rd Mar 2019 8:29pm |
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| Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 732  
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Glad you managed to get it out in the end.
You should be able to rub down the corrosion and get a decent finish. When I replaced my widow blocks I used clear Dinitrol wax as a sealant/ protectant both on the gaskets, in the back of the window blocks and in the hole in the frame. Only time will tell if this is sucessful but it has to be better than the original LR solution. Stephen |
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23rd Mar 2019 9:26pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8058 
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Left hand drill bits work well for drilling out stuck studs. Start small normal drill bit, then get a large oversized lh drill bit to bite into the end. The heat from the initial small bit helps heat the bolt and often the large lh bit will bite and then unscrew the bolt.
How ever in the case shown I don't think that bolt was ever likely to come out. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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23rd Mar 2019 10:08pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816  
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Duralac hardens quickly. This here is much better. Learned this from a German Defender wizzard, I use it for years now on standard mild steel door bolts, and it never hardens and zero rust. Also use it to lubricate other things like for instance the bonnet catch mechanism, just works perfectly and doesn’t harden. Apply liberally. Eric Click image to enlarge If you don’t find the above which is a more recent formula, the version below which is the actual one on my door bolts is equally good. Click image to enlarge You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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24th Mar 2019 5:02am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17450 
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Another vote for Weicon paste, excellent stuff albeit pricey (also messy). Available via Amazon.
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24th Mar 2019 8:55am |
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| Fat Cog Member Since: 19 Mar 2012 Location: Oxfordshire & Devon Posts: 502 
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Before you refit them smear ACF50 corrosion block grease on the gaskets, in the holes etc...great stuff.
http://www.acf-50.co.uk/corrosion_block.htm And Huttopias blocks are top notch... Since 1973...S1, Air Portable's, Defender's, but only my Wolf TUL HS GS remains |
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24th Mar 2019 8:59am |
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