 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Rear diff failure |
 
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1850  
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My question is about a different diff, but to do with this point above. If you just want to replace the pinion oil seal, is it not just a case of removing the bolt/nut, pulling out the flange, replacing the seal and torquing back up again? Do you need to get involved in "setting up" the diff again? Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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22nd Feb 2019 7:36am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17526  
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To replace the pinion oil seal you do not need to make any adjustments nor carry out any setting up of the diff. You would only need to do any of the latter if you were replacing bearings or other parts (e.g., crownwheel & pinion), or adjusting the diff to allow for wear on bearings or other running surfaces. |
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22nd Feb 2019 8:04am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8145 
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Jim - they do a slighly thinner drive member for use with alloys Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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22nd Feb 2019 8:28am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1850
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 Thanks BW. Donald
1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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22nd Feb 2019 9:40am |
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| mata Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Manchester Posts: 153
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Oof! That could have been a spanner in the works! |
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22nd Feb 2019 10:20am |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2675 
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On Rover diffs one can remove the flange and refit without having to set anything up, do the nut/bolt (depending on year) up to torque and job done.
Salisbury diffs are different and require a bit more thought due to the way the pinion bearings are preloaded. |
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22nd Feb 2019 10:20pm |
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| mata Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Manchester Posts: 153
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Installed the new diff, half shafts and drive flanges yesterday. I took my time given the significant cost of all the parts and having never done it before; spending a long time cleaning up the mating face on the axle and around the studs and double checking everything I was doing
I took some advice off a guy who runs a local specialist garage when I was picking up some new nuts and bolts and have left the half shaft oil seal in the stub axle, despite Ashcroft’s advice to remove them. The guy from the garage thought that diff oil would end up washing out the grease in the wheel bearings which would then end up finding its way out onto the wheels. Instead I’ve greased the drive flanges and half shaft splines with a special anti-fretting grease from SKF. Would be interested to hear people’s opinion on this as I may we’ll be taking it apart again soon to replace the rear discs and pads and possibly overhaul the callipers. Back together and off the axle stands there was a definite twang as I pulled off but I’m pretty sure this was the suspension settling. I pootled around at very low speeds for a good five minutes giving plenty of chance for the oil to get around and inside the diff center and nothing appeared untoward. I did some tight circles in both directions and thought I could hear the diff working/whirring away with the windows down, but could have been mistaken. The biggest difference and something i was hoping for is that my transmission slack is all but gone! The cars done 140k miles and had 105k on it when I bought it and the transmission slack has always been significant. I improved it a year or two ago when I replaced the intermediate shaft with an upgraded one, again from Ashcroft, along with new OEM rear drive flanges but now it feels great. I’m glad I made the additional investment in the upgrades and look forward to doo g some miles today. |
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24th Feb 2019 9:02am |
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| mata Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Manchester Posts: 153
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Money pit and landy andy - I spoke with Nigel at excess4x4 and he was very helpful and generous with his time on the phone. His diffs are rebuilt with components to the very highest specification so were looking a bit more expensive than ashcroft. Given my vehicle is almost all road use I felt i was already over speccing with what I’ve ultimately fitted so decided against going with one of his diffs. There was also a small element of Ashcrofts more mainstream reputation should the time come to sell the landy.
BogMonster - David Ashcroft and Nigel Barker both said independently of one another that its very unlucky for the flange bolt to shear off like it did, especially given the light duties of the vehicle. They also said it was lucky it didn’t happen on the motorway, something that doesn’t bear thinking about! They both suggested it could have been overtightened from factory! I think I’m going to have there front diff inspected and have a new bolt and oil seal for peace of mind. jst - im not sure what a low pinion diff is ? I decided against an air locker due to the fact i don’t really need it. The ATB seemed like a good compromise and will probably been more useful in snow and other low grip situations. mactheknife - sounds familiar!! |
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24th Feb 2019 9:31am |
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| Bluericky Member Since: 26 Jun 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 647 
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Well done , it’s so satisfying doing it yourself and then the added bonus of it all being better than before !
I changed my front diff , half shafts and flanges along with the rear at 135k miles and what a difference, it feels like new . I then changed all the suspension components and upgraded the shocks and bushes and yet again an enormous difference in handling , potholes etc . Also removed inlet manifold and EGR and cleaned them out , again what a difference to engine response . I feel that the engine isn’t too far off a rebuild though but that will have to wait ! Pic of the dif failure  Click image to enlarge https://www.instagram.com/hustynminepark/ |
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24th Feb 2019 2:14pm |
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| BogMonster Member Since: 05 Feb 2008 Location: Stanley Posts: 400  
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Fairly standard failure, the pin breaks, the two ends clack back and forth making the holes in the cage bigger and bigger until something can fall out, bang, fail to proceed. I had one of them out of my old front diff the other week! Here's what they look like shortly before the bang, note the chipped teeth! The two ends of the pin are held in with the crownwheel, so when you take that off the diff centre it all just falls out...
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge --- 2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi |
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24th Feb 2019 4:53pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8145
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Good work on this. its always nice to improve a vehicle yourself to suit your needs. i removed the seals and have done since i first started using ashcroft shafts in 2005ish. i havent had a problem with CV grease or migration of the oil out of the DM, prior to running Ashcroft DMs that was. with the latter they are sealed anyway. i went rear air locker for off road use in those wet grassy fields towing! ATB for one road is perfect choice. The low pinion hypoid diff came from Dave, they had a few for an experiment i think on producing a stronger rear diff with a P38 pattern. Don't think they made that many. Having had a rear diff go on a previous 110 Puma it made sense to take the option at the time wanting to go air locker to. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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28th Feb 2019 12:44pm |
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