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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5731  
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I fitted a small andrerson connector on my last two fridges. That way I know it won’t come loose, or be connected wrongly.
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3rd Feb 2019 10:49pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20457 
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^^^^ I would go for this too. Go for the rubber boots as well while your it for a finishing touch.
And a dust cap for the power supply side should you want or need it disconnected for any time. They are worth it.  No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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4th Feb 2019 12:15am |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1764 
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I'd probably go Anderson. No need for the big sb175 though, an sb50 or probably even a PowerPole would do it!
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4th Feb 2019 12:19am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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A proper Hella is perfectly adequate for a fridge. They're decent connectors. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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4th Feb 2019 8:44am |
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| Sphere Member Since: 26 Apr 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 725 
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Anderson looking like a positive and tbh love them.
Forgive me if a slightly thinking aloud (electrics really get my brain working) Currently have 2 x 21amp feeds to 3x fag sockets in the rear and was going to upgrade these to 50amp wireing as I am suffering a voltage drop noticed when the fridge is connected (making the fridge cut out early) Ok Now thinking running a new cable with Anderson (probably sb50) for the fridge, this would come direct from the aux battery so would need bo be fused somehow (have a spare mega fuse box from a previous install which should work just need to check I can get a fuse small enough) Questions I need to work out I guess Does a sb50 Anderson fit 50amp wire, or do I use and be done with it fit 16mm cable (think that sounds a plan as think I have some 16mm anyway). Equally Will a Anderson fit to the wireing from the fridge, looks around 4mm cable, or do I need to go to power pole therefore striking question 1 as this will need to match. Finally do I stick with the planned upgraded wiring to the rear as I have the cable and was going to reuse the one 21amp feed that’s then redundant for better lighting in the rear and a worklight, or leave the 21amp in place for the fag lighters and run a new smaller cable for this (max draw of the lights just over 1amp got to love LED 👍). I want to keep the feeds for the lighting and fag lighters separate I think so I can isolate the fag sockets easily. Hate planning wiring |
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4th Feb 2019 8:47am |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
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When researching Hella connectors, they're only known as Hella connectors in the 4x4 world.
In the agriculture world they're known as "DIN plugs" which is also a bit misleading as there are lots of different standards of DIN connector, but walk in to a tractor dealer and ask for one that's what you'll get. It's DIN standard 4165 But to go back to the original question, mine is hardwired all the way back to the fuse board. I never got round to fitting a plug and socket, but if I did it would be an Anderson. |
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4th Feb 2019 9:20am |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1764
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Part of my justification comes down to stock! I have a pile of powerpole bits and a set of crimpers, so it's an easy choice to make!
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4th Feb 2019 9:23am |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8582
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SB50 Anderson connectors are rated at 50 amp continuous current capacity.
Now there is at least 2 sizes of terminals for the SB 50, if I remember correctly AWG 10 and 6 which equates to about 6mm2 and 13mm2 cable. Now as a rough rule of thumb for every 1mm2 CSA of cable the current carrying capacity is about 7 - 8 amps. So 6mm2 cable is at the top end of the capacity of SB50 Depending on the fridge the average current draw will be about 1 amp, I am uncertain of current drawing whilst running or the surge current of typical 4x4 fridges. Now is your fridge cutting out due to your fridge having a battery monitoring device built in device? If you go for a SB 50 you could make up an SP50 to 12v socket connector Brendan |
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4th Feb 2019 9:32am |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1764
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SB50 rated for hot connect/disconnect at 50A, Basically it will breeze along at 50A. You can get 6AWG terminals for them, which in my experience will take 16mm cable quite happily.
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4th Feb 2019 11:06am |
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| Sphere Member Since: 26 Apr 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 725
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Think the 50amp rating on the Anderson is OTT as think the max draw for the fridge is somthing like 5-10amps and as Brendon says probably a average draw of 1-2amps. I do however like how secure and neat the Anderson is as do think the fag socket is a little exposed at times if a little OTT. I would also fuse it a lower than 50amp.
Brendon you are correct the 50 amp wire I have is 6mm so spot on there. The problem I have is the internal voltage sensor of the fridge when volts drop below 10v it cuts out until it goes back up to 12v issue I am having is that when it draws it pulls voltage down the volts so causing it to cut out after a few hours, at the moment I have shorter wire run through the cab (approx half the length of my original proper wired solution) this lasts 12-14 hours however on test with a 6” wire it lasts nearly 48 hours on the same battery making me think it’s a voltage drop through the wire (all using the same wire). Can’t quite fathom it myself as we are not talking massive lengths but it’s my only thought? Fridge is a snow master 40ltr if anyone has had similar. Only problem is the job is getting bigger than expected  |
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4th Feb 2019 8:05pm |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8582
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Sphere this is going to be a bit of hand waving/guessing
V=IR . so guess current at 2 amps, 5 metres of 2 mm2 cable with resistance of 0.01 ohms/metre So voltage drop is about 0.1 volt. That is not a massive voltage drop. So my guess would be a resistive connector in the circuit someone. Get a long lead, measure its resistance then measure the resistance of your power circuit. Also I would be testing the battery voltage as well. Check battery voltage, then charge it fully measure voltage. Then retest battery voltage after a day or two. If your battery is getting old/tired it will not get fully charged to 12.6-12.7 volts. The next thing which concerns me is that the low battery level on the fridge is set at 10 volts. That would totally flatten a 12 volt battery. Is that figure correct I am not familiar with the snomaster fridge? Brendan |
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4th Feb 2019 9:06pm |
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| Sphere Member Since: 26 Apr 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 725
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This is getting back to physics at school
 and where my electrics start getting very ropey, and also agree about the drop shouldn’t be to bad over that distance but all pointed to this. Equally it did seam to work on the first trip out but memory making me doubt it. Thinking possibly poor quality wire? Can’t see what the resistance could be as simple aux battery to fag socket via a blue sea terminal mount fuse box.
But totally with you that it doesn’t make sense 
Checked the voltage of the battery several times and kicking out the full 12.7ish volts even after a few days, and the battery is only a couple of years old now. Have also fully charged it and tested it with the fridge and still issues, Will need to work out how to test resistance on my meter (got to learn) to check the drop. Thought it may be the fridge but works ok with sorter lengths. I can change the cut of from 10-12v I have it set low as partly as having the issues and running it off the aux battery anyway so just want as long running time as possible. Have to say love this forum as always helpful even to electrical numptys like me. |
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4th Feb 2019 9:35pm |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8582
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Just had a quick look at the specifications
From Snomaster 40 litre fridge manual 5 amps on high speed, 2.5 amps on low speed Voltage Cut out can be set between 10 & 11.5 From ARB 47 litre manual Rated current 7 amp, average current draw 0.89 amp/hr Cut off voltage . 10v 11.4v 11.8v Restart voltage 11.1v 12.2v 12.6v So 10v is the correct low battery voltage. I would be very concerned on using either of those fridges on the low battery setting as that would completely drain a standard 12 volt battery. In my view not good practise for long battery life. Brendan |
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4th Feb 2019 9:37pm |
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