 | Home > Technical > fuel lift pump - should I feel resistance while priming? |
 
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1846  
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Last of tonight's daft questions...
After working on the spill rail, it was harder to start the car. I assume fuel had drained back to the tank. So, popped the bonnet and tried using the lever underneath the lift pump. It seemed to me to be doing absolutely nothing at all. I was getting a good range of movement on the lever, but no feeling of resistance at all. Should I have felt anything at all? Or would there be nothing at all until some fuel got closer? The car did eventually start - so no great problem - just curious really, and wondering if maybe the lift pump itself has seen better days? Thanks Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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3rd Jan 2019 7:55pm |
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| htb2 Member Since: 02 Nov 2018 Location: Carmarthenshire Posts: 532 
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try turning the crank, lift pump maybe on max lift on cam
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3rd Jan 2019 7:57pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1846
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thanks. But wouldn't that mean I'd get a smaller range of movement with the lever?
I had read about that previously, so was expecting that maybe the lever wouldn't move too much - but it was going nearly 90 degrees, from about horizontal, to about straight down. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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3rd Jan 2019 8:25pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
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3rd Jan 2019 8:28pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1846
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thanks both - I'm now better informed.
Just wondering further about this. If you had a problem 'on the roadside' and needed to move the camshaft, you'd need to get a spanner or socket on the crankshaft pulley? (or move the car a short distance while in gear?) ...and the video mentions putting the lever in the 'stow' position. What would happen if you didn't? I don't actually know if I have or not, but the car hasn't moved more than 10 yards anyway, so no great harm done ... Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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3rd Jan 2019 8:49pm |
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| htb2 Member Since: 02 Nov 2018 Location: Carmarthenshire Posts: 532
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Just rock in gear to turn crank, or pull tug on belts(if needs must).
I know you you should stow the primer lever but never bothered( senility) |
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3rd Jan 2019 9:00pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1846
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  Donald
1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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3rd Jan 2019 9:04pm |
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