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familymad



Member Since: 13 Dec 2011
Location: Bucks
Posts: 3481

 2016 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Santorini Black
Dinatrol results 18months later
I know there are lots of comments about Dinatrol versus other treatments. I have had Defenders from 2007 and mostly had Waxoil done. In 2013 began having Dinatrol treatments but most have been sold and I couldn’t really comment with confidence. I thought I would share the results 18months on after treatment on my TDCI 130 chassis. I have done 4K miles mostly on dry dusty Spanish tracks or motorways in those months. The vehicle has 44k miles in total and hasn’t been worked. Since treatment it hasn’t been out in the salt and this is the state of it with a “Professional” full Dinatrol applied:



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There are a few rust bubbles in places and the front end looks the same as the rear. Anyone else had similar? 1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI
1995 90 300TDI
Post #707026 14th May 2018 4:54am
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ibexman



Member Since: 13 Dec 2008
Location: Essex
Posts: 2945

United Kingdom 
That’s not good I would be looking for answers Whistle
Post #707027 14th May 2018 5:16am
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Sulisuli



Member Since: 30 Oct 2016
Location: South west
Posts: 4795

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
Those pictures do show some disappointing results. My Defender was Dinitrolled by the previous owner before I purchased it 18 months ago and the application by an “approved” Dinitrol agent was dire to be honest.

This was confirmed by the Dinitrol approved agent I took it to last May who said they had never seen such shoddy workmanship. I had them redo it and the results are excellent and lasting very well and mine gets driven mot days come rain or shine.

I think it all comes down to preparation of the chassis including allowing sufficient time for it to totally dry out prior to the application.

Have you contacted the original company who applied it? Maybe worth a try if they are reputable? 2015 HT XS 90
2008 SVX 90
2000 XS TD5 90
Post #707028 14th May 2018 5:20am
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2665

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
My 2011 was done (by me) within 3 weeks of being new, and now, 7 years on, it's much better than your photos (I will take some pics later and post if I get chance).

Maybe it was badly applied or something, because I can barely see any dinitrol in your pics.

I hope you get it sorted.

If I were you I would use a wire brush, fertan, and reapply to corroding areas...

Edit.. mine right (pic taken this very morning) now, after 40,000 miles and 7 years...


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


...and that was a DIY job with rattle cans... I re-did the insides with dinitrol cavity wax a couple of weeks ago (now used a compressor and Shultz gun).

Should be almost no rust at all...maybe a few areas need touching-up, but nothing significant. When topping-up I use (1) wire brush (2) fertan (3) reapply dinitrol. I've barely had to touch-up anything since original application (just where I didn't do a great job 1st time) Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)


Last edited by MartinK on 14th May 2018 10:07am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #707039 14th May 2018 7:23am
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Mine's better than that after about 18 months. I've got a bit of abrasion on the rear spring hangers I need to re-treat but that's about all.

It's not the product, but the application I think. I did mine myself.
One thing I did, that yours clearly didn't have done. Is I wire brushed all the rusted welds, on the chassis and axles, before treating them with rust converter and giving the welds a coat of black paint. I think I used some sort of one coat satin hammerite stuff. Then I went over It all with the Dinitrol.
Post #707061 14th May 2018 9:19am
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2665

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Quote:
It's not the product, but the application I think. I did mine myself.


Agree... Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #707070 14th May 2018 10:30am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20359

United Kingdom 
I done mine about 4 years ago now at least, and still isn't quite as bad as that and I also done it myself.
A few abrasion spots, but other than that.

I'm going to 'top' it up this year...

I would say the prep you had wasn't done thorough enough, I completely cleaned my chassis before application.
It's no good Dinitrolling over any oil or diesel spills on anything etc.

So I'd be thinking its down to prep work. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Last edited by custom90 on 14th May 2018 6:19pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #707073 14th May 2018 11:01am
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familymad



Member Since: 13 Dec 2011
Location: Bucks
Posts: 3481

 2016 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Santorini Black
zsd-puma wrote:
Mine's better than that after about 18 months. I've got a bit of abrasion on the rear spring hangers I need to re-treat but that's about all.

It's not the product, but the application I think. I did mine myself.
One thing I did, that yours clearly didn't have done. Is I wire brushed all the rusted welds, on the chassis and axles, before treating them with rust converter and giving the welds a coat of black paint. I think I used some sort of one coat satin hammerite stuff. Then I went over It all with the Dinitrol.


Totally agree. The prep was poor. Interesting to show that blowing it over with Dinatrol doesn’t fix the rust .... 1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI
1995 90 300TDI
Post #707139 14th May 2018 6:06pm
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Sulisuli



Member Since: 30 Oct 2016
Location: South west
Posts: 4795

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
Have you tried contacting the application centre who applied it? Are they a company that only does Dinitrol or do they do other work as well? Maybe worth speaking direct to Dinitrol themselves perhaps? 2015 HT XS 90
2008 SVX 90
2000 XS TD5 90
Post #707146 14th May 2018 6:30pm
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Fabio



Member Since: 05 Aug 2011
Location: Somerset
Posts: 589

Portugal 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
That doesn't look good.
Mine was waxoiled 2 years ago and i don't think it is that bad...

Fabio
Post #707152 14th May 2018 6:49pm
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JimC



Member Since: 22 Jan 2011
Location: NOVA
Posts: 164

United States 2007 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Arles Blue
My untreated 2006 looks better.
Post #707154 14th May 2018 6:57pm
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mick



Member Since: 08 Feb 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 2109

England 2010 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Rimini Red
My 2010 untreated looks similar that’s out nearly every day in all weather and conditions
Post #707174 14th May 2018 8:02pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Quote:
My 2010 untreated looks similar that’s out nearly every day in all weather and conditions


Although it may not look better inside the box sections.
Post #707213 14th May 2018 9:27pm
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BuckBlu110



Member Since: 19 Apr 2014
Location: in the pub
Posts: 712

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel CSW Buckingham Blue
It almost looks like it hasn’t got any on it! At least compared to mine. I had mine done nearly three years ago, and is still clearly visible, it looks as though it was put on a lot thicker than yours. I agree with the above comments that it hasn’t been applied correctly and/or bad prep. The chap who did mine refused to do it unless it had been steam cleaned thoroughly and Completely dry.
Post #707222 14th May 2018 9:50pm
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
so, who is going to ask first ?

(elephant in the room)
Post #707291 15th May 2018 12:08pm
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