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1978



Member Since: 04 Aug 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 519

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 HT Belize Green
Fitting a New Rear Tub Floor into my Defender
I'm hoping to tackle this in my Defender, I want renew the aluminium tub floor before I soundproof and carpet the rear load area. I'm planning to purchase the parts from YRM but thought I'd ask if anyone has tacked this and if there are any issues or tips that I should be aware of.

Many thanks in advance....
Post #553406 3rd Aug 2016 1:30pm
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1763

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
Depending on the age there will either be lots of rivets, or spot welds and huck bolts. Either way expect a lot of drilling. Worth getting a spot weld drill bit, and prepare for the fact that some of the tub floor supports may need replacing.

It's a simple job, just quite time consuming.
Post #553438 3rd Aug 2016 3:58pm
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nmrg60



Member Since: 07 Feb 2016
Location: Bristol
Posts: 2

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Stornoway Grey
in the middle of this right now. I say in the middle because having spent ages drilling out aforementioned rivets and spot welds - we found a few issues with the chassis so now its having a new rear quarter chassis/rear cross member fitted by a garage.

very happy with the kit from YRM though.

/Nick
Post #553440 3rd Aug 2016 4:05pm
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1978



Member Since: 04 Aug 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 519

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 HT Belize Green
Thanks very much chaps that's reassuring. I was planning to replace the supports with galv items whilst I'm down there, hopefully there won't be any chassis issues Shocked How would I reattach the new floor, with rivets? I was considering putting a new fuel pump in too....
Post #553477 3rd Aug 2016 6:10pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1841

 
A bit of a thread resurrection.... but it's exactly the topic I was looking for.

There's no doubt that the tub floor on my '94 car is past its best. Looking in from the wheel arch, you can see it's slightly bowed; if I kneel up/down in the back I can hear it knocking somewhere; and the seat belt mountings must be questionable for an MOT (I'll find out tomorrow!).

So I've looked at the YRM site, and it seems to me that I'll get what I need for ca. £280 or so.

Anyway, I was hoping for a thread where someone had done this, and came up with any dos and don'ts... but there's something above that's made me wonder..... What's the benefit of a spot weld drill bit? Given that it's in aluminium isn't it just easy enough to drill it out with a standard 6mm HSS bit?

Ta Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #736737 25th Oct 2018 6:27pm
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