 | Home > Technical > Painting a galvanised chassis |
 
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727   
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Hello folks,
I would like to crack on and get my Richards Chassis galvanised chassis painted. I understood the process to be: (1) Clean up any burrs, and check threads are re-tapped (2) Apply Mordant T-wash using a brush ( https://paintman.co.uk/shop/mordant-t-wash-solution/ ) (3) Wait for T-Wash to dry and wash chassis off with water (4) Apply etch primer within 48 hours of applying the T-wash, using a spray gun ( https://paintman.co.uk/shop/etch-primer/ ) (5) Apply chassis-black paint, either brush or spray ( https://paintman.co.uk/shop/chassis-black-enamel/ ) I was all set up to order this little lot (and a fresh set of appropriate breathing-mask-filters). However after watching a few of the LRTV episodes, Chris was recommending the use of Arc-Rite for paint. They don't seem to do T-Wash - however they do sell a direct-to-galvanised-metal primer: https://www.arc-rite.co.uk/arcforce-etch-g...red-primer Has anyone had any experience with this paint, or Arc-Rite in general? Assuming it works as well as the T-wash in terms of paint adherence, this would be preferable for me as: (a) Less steps (b) No need to wash the chassis with water - which will be troublesome in a garage where I don't know if the water will flow outside (I cannot move the chassis outside to do this) (c) No worries about not getting the primer on within 48 hours of the T-wash. While it is warm this week, it might not be next week when I plan to do it, so I do have a slight concern that 48 hours might not be long enough to fully dry. Cheers! Chris. 2005 Td5 90 XS 1989 V8 110 CSW |
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13th Oct 2018 5:38pm |
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| under_rover Member Since: 02 Apr 2013 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 151 
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Hi there Hufflepuff,
Here's what we did with our Richards chassis. Dry wire wooled chassis Painted with mordant solution Re wirewooled any areas that hadn't turned black and recoated with mordant solution Left to dry for 24 hours Sprayed with universal primer Left 48 hours until no longer tacky Topped off with chassis black from Frost retoration Threads are all cleared prior to dispatch from Richards. 
Have a peek on my rebuild thread if you'd like to see the results Cheers Laurie 90 rebuild thread - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62909.html |
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13th Oct 2018 5:59pm |
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| Romadog Member Since: 07 Jul 2011 Location: Powys Posts: 1750 |
Or...
T-wash if fresh galv, then spray with Buzzweld CIO (chassis in one) See my 90 build here http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic51671.html Gives a lovely genuine finish.....did mine with 6 x small spray cans. |
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13th Oct 2018 7:34pm |
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| Ghound Member Since: 03 Jul 2018 Location: northern ireland Posts: 45  
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Don't let the T Wash dry out, it an acid that will keep eating into the galv, give it 10mins to go black then hose it down with water.
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13th Oct 2018 10:58pm |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727
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Hmm so a variety of different options. I will consider them all, thanks. 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW |
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13th Oct 2018 11:08pm |
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| under_rover Member Since: 02 Apr 2013 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 151
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Here's a link from the horses mouth on the use of T Wash
https://www.galvanizing.org.uk/painting-galvanized-steel/ Cheers Laurie 90 rebuild thread - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62909.html |
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14th Oct 2018 7:32am |
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| Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 733  
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Cannot help with your chassis painting query, but I have used Arc rite for various spray cans and other supplies and found them very helpful and reliable.
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14th Oct 2018 7:38am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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I've only recently discovered T wash and I've found it gives better results than any direct to galv paint that I've previously used. As NickMc says though, no need to etch prime afterwards; regular primer and top coat are the way to go. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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14th Oct 2018 8:44am |
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| NAS90 Member Since: 26 Sep 2018 Location: Norfolk Posts: 45
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With the new chassis for my 50th arriving this coming week (if Richards manage to arrange transportation) I logged on this morning to start a thread asking for advice on the best way to treat the chassis and there it was at the top o the list, so questions largely answered instantly!
One question that does remain after the answers above; while it may not be strictly necessary, is there any down side to using an etch primer after the T Wash? If not I am leaning towards the T Wash, Etch Primer & Chassis paint route. Is there such a thing as too many Defenders?.... NAS90 Soft Top, 50th Anniversary, Spectre 110 Puma, Ex Italian Police 90 with JE V8 Auto |
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14th Oct 2018 9:57am |
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| under_rover Member Since: 02 Apr 2013 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 151
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You shouldn't need etch primer NAS90 the t wash has done the etching bit for you, just make sure there's no shiny galvanising left and you'll be ok priming straight onto the chassis
Cheers
Laurie 90 rebuild thread - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62909.html |
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14th Oct 2018 10:11am |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1654  
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I think this video explains the different types of primers quite well and the common misconceptions.
If you T-wash you don’t etch, if you etch only a thin coat is needed, etch is basically an acid that keys the metal. Be careful of mixing different types of paint especially on something so expensive, you could do more harm than good
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14th Oct 2018 10:34am |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727
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Its great to see an active discussion, thanks for all your input.
Curiously Frost's page on the subject (supplied by the "funrover" folks): https://www.frost.co.uk/how-to-paint-galva...me-coating does indicate using an 2-pack etch primer after the T-wash stage. I've heard from a professional paint spraying friend I used to know that these 2-pack products are property nasty for your health, and really require an air-fed mask which I don't have access to - so I would have preferred to have steered clear of 2-pack if there were comparable alternative solutions. Weighing up the thread responses, I think I am currently leaning towards the following procedure: (1) Clean up any burrs, and check threads are re-tapped (2) Apply Mordant T-wash using a brush (3) After the T-Wash has gone black (~10 minutes after applying) and wash the chassis off with water (4) Apply etch primer within 48 hours of applying the T-wash, using a spray gun (5) Apply chassis-black paint (satin black), with a spray gun So now I just have to pick a retailer for this little lot, from a so far collected list of: https://www.arc-rite.co.uk https://paintman.co.uk https://www.frost.co.uk It seems to make sense to use the same brand primer and paint to reduce the possibility of a unexpected reaction. ... and I thought this would be one of the easier parts of the rebuild. 2005 Td5 90 XS 1989 V8 110 CSW |
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14th Oct 2018 12:15pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1654
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2k will be ok without an air fed if you’re brushing (still need a cartridge mask) it’s when the particles are airborne that’s the real bad bit.
Chromates are what you need to be safety aware of in Etch primers I wouldn’t attempt to spray a Chassis with a standard paint gun at home it’s not practical or cost effective in my eyes, too wide a fan and won’t spray upside down and in the nooks and crannies without say PPS cups or the like £££. Honestly I’d go for something brush-able and industrial. Have you tried your local automotive paint supplier? Or maybe sprayguns direct, chris there would be able to give you trade experienced honest answers. |
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14th Oct 2018 1:03pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2681
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You may need to degrease prior to T-wash/Mordant as contamination on the surface can impede the reaction. It’s obvious though if this occurs as there will be shiny bits still.
I’ve done several and always gone: Degrease Rinse T-wash Rinse Repeat above as necessary until all ‘treated’ Then whatever paint system takes your fancy. I used CIO from Buzzweld/Arc-Rite.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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14th Oct 2018 2:11pm |
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