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TechnoTurkey



Member Since: 25 Jul 2016
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 88

2005 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Zambezi Silver
Snapped crossmember bolt
Hi all,

I'm in the process of replacing the rear ladder on my 110 but have managed to snap one if the cross member bolts, any tips on how to extract the rest of it?

There is about 5mm of thread protruding past the bodywork if that helps!

Many thanks
Post #729758 18th Sep 2018 1:15pm
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AndrewS



Member Since: 10 Apr 2007
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3707

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 SW Rimini Red
Drill it out 130's have feeling's as well you know Smile
Post #729761 18th Sep 2018 1:34pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
which bolt exactly?
Post #729766 18th Sep 2018 2:01pm
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TechnoTurkey



Member Since: 25 Jul 2016
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 88

2005 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Zambezi Silver
The cross member bolt at the bottom of the factory ladder.
Post #729769 18th Sep 2018 2:05pm
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TechnoTurkey



Member Since: 25 Jul 2016
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 88

2005 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Zambezi Silver
Bolt as per this pic:
Post #729770 18th Sep 2018 2:06pm
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Hufflepuff



Member Since: 25 Oct 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 727

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Tonga Green
If you soak it in penetrating fluid, you might find that 5mm is enough to grab on with using a set of good quality mole grips? 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW
Post #729790 18th Sep 2018 4:02pm
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AndrewS



Member Since: 10 Apr 2007
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3707

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 SW Rimini Red
Is this a bolt that goes into a captive nut that fixed onto the crossmember? if so:-
Option 1 file the remains flat, get a centre punch and punch the exact center of the bolt, drill a 5mm hole into the remains of the bolt. At this point you may be lucky and find that the drilling process may have weakened the bolt enough to unscrew it with some molegrips. If not then drill a bigger hole that matches the internal diameter of the thread of the bolt. Then tap the hole out to clean the existing thread in the captive nut.
Option 2 drill the bolt out over size and replace with a bolt over size. (if you can get your fingers in behind the crossmember)
Option 3 Drill the bolt out over size to suit a rivnut and fit a rivnut to match the existing.
Option 4 replace the chassis (PS i'll take your old one off your hands) Thumbs Up 130's have feeling's as well you know Smile
Post #729791 18th Sep 2018 4:07pm
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NormanD



Member Since: 12 Aug 2011
Location: Bristol
Posts: 285

England 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
Climb underneath, clean the threads of the remainder of the Bolt with a wire brush, yes I know its awkward, use lots of penetrating oil, use mole grips on the broken head end to jiggle the remainder in and out, it you will probably be able to remove it. Best of luck. NormanD WE191

2015 110 XS Utility
2014 VW Caravelle 180 Executive
Post #729794 18th Sep 2018 4:35pm
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3639

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
clean up the rear as previously suggested, then drill a hole the same size as the bolt in a bit of scrap strip steel, arc weld the strip to the bolt, unscrew using the strip, the heat from the welding will most likely release the bolt from the thread DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #729797 18th Sep 2018 5:34pm
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trickster5000



Member Since: 12 Dec 2015
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 502

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Arles Blue
As above but you could use a nut instead of a metal strip. Remember to disconnect the battery before welding anything on the chassis to protect your electrical equipment. Matt.

'89 90 CSW with a 3.5 V8 conversion (WIP) - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic46809.html
Post #729798 18th Sep 2018 5:46pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
TechnoTurkey wrote:
Bolt as per this pic:


Ok so the rear tub mounting bolt.

I think if you move the plastic shield in the back of the wheel arch you can get at the back of that bolt. so you can give it a good soaking with release fluid. Ordinary WD-40 or Diesel will do, but proper penetrating oil will be better. Halfords even do a WD-40 branded 'penetrating fluid'.

Once you've done that centre punch the middle of the bolt and drill into it, chances are the heat from drilling will be enough to free it off. 5mm is probably not quite enough to get a good grip on it with mole grips without them slipping and damaging paint.
Post #729807 18th Sep 2018 6:59pm
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1215

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
Puddle weld another nut on top. Whistle Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #729816 18th Sep 2018 7:20pm
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apt100



Member Since: 05 Mar 2015
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 1547

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
You could also try the drilling options above using a left hand drill bit. It might just unscrew it at some point - if you are lucky.
Post #729830 18th Sep 2018 8:16pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1620

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
You should be able to get at the back of that from the wheel arch.

Heat and vise grips - I don’t use drilling or extractors if I can avoid it.

You might be able to heat it and instead of spinning it out the bodywork side bring the clean threads out the back on through the hole if that makes sense?

You can also try and shock it with heat then cold water.
Post #729839 18th Sep 2018 8:55pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
my concern with using heat on that is paintwork damage.
Post #729846 18th Sep 2018 9:30pm
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