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lakelander

Member Since: 07 Jan 2017
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 100

2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Orkney Grey

Martin wrote:
Bolt holes on tow sockets are an industry standard so yes.

Bear in mind with the non-genuine kit you need to fit each wire to the correct pin yourself. The genuine kit is a sealed/potted socket.

Assuming the fault lies with the towing socket (and not the plug/socket in the wheelarch), there is an argument that might as well just buy a replacement 12N socket and replace that alone.

i want to relocate my 12n socket from the mounting bracket on the towing plate into the the PTO recess on the crossmember.
( the tow bar and electrics were OE fitted from new ). It will be out of the way and imo looks much neater there. Wiil try to use rivnuts ( this is breaking ground for me!! ) however it is doubtful i will be able to get the nuts off to seperate the socket from the mounting bracket as they are totally rusted up. Don't want to shell out for a new harness so how easy is it to rewire a new socket if i cut the wires and how do i know which wire goes into which pin? looks like the existing socket is wired and sealed up. Will there be any soldering involved.
appreciate any advice before i wreck the existing socket

21st Jul 2020 5:18pm

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

Cut the nuts off of the back of the bracket and just replace the bolts. If it's genuine then the the loom will unplug behind the offside rear lights and can then be threaded through the hole in the crossmember (which isn't for a PTO!). No re-wiring or soldering required. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

21st Jul 2020 9:06pm

lakelander

Member Since: 07 Jan 2017
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 100

thanks for that. didn't realise the wiring wnet up there and unplugged.

btw if not a PTO what is the hole in the crossmemember there for?

22nd Jul 2020 4:00pm

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

Towing electrics

Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

22nd Jul 2020 4:28pm

lakelander

Member Since: 07 Jan 2017
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 100

22nd Jul 2020 4:45pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17365

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

lakelander wrote:
... if not a PTO what is the hole in the crossmemember there for?

As noted above, this:

Click image to enlarge

22nd Jul 2020 5:06pm

DuncanS

Member Since: 06 Dec 2013
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 299

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

Or if you want to, you can also fit a half 13 pin instead at the same time. On my puma 110 and several other TD5 vehicles, the rear grey connector on the 7 pin side already has permanent power and reverse in place. The only bit you won't get from that area is a proper ingition fed charging / fridge live which requires additional wiring.

This is however useful for those with 13 pin trailers or trickle charging the vehicle using the 13 pin socket. North Cumbria Search and Rescue - Team Leader

22nd Jul 2020 5:09pm

lakelander

Member Since: 07 Jan 2017
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 100

LandRoverAnorak wrote:
Cut the nuts off of the back of the bracket and just replace the bolts. If it's genuine then the the loom will unplug behind the offside rear lights and can then be threaded through the hole in the crossmember (which isn't for a PTO!). No re-wiring or soldering required.

an update- found the plug behind the dirt shield near the rear lights as you said. unbolted the mounting plate and removed the complete harness. gave it a go to rethread the plug end through the crossmember hole - it will go through both the square and round hole but there is an sufficient clearance between the member and the fuel tank for the plug to go through. Perhaps this is just a 90 problem?
all not lost because after 2 hours sitting in penetrating oil and a blast of " freeze " fluid, managed to get the socket seperated from the mounting plate. So scraped away the silicone from the wiring at the back of the socket and discovered the connections are simple brass screw-ins. Noted where they fit then disconnected the socket. Now when ready i can recoonect the plug and thread the wiring through before i rewire the socket. there should be enough play to allow this. Just the rivnuts to master now - first step is to order a rivnut tool and practise on my old bumper!

24th Jul 2020 5:05pm

lakelander

Member Since: 07 Jan 2017
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 100

DuncanS wrote:
Or if you want to, you can also fit a half 13 pin instead at the same time. On my puma 110 and several other TD5 vehicles, the rear grey connector on the 7 pin side already has permanent power and reverse in place. The only bit you won't get from that area is a proper ingition fed charging / fridge live which requires additional wiring.

This is however useful for those with 13 pin trailers or trickle charging the vehicle using the 13 pin socket.

Mine is just a 7 pin N socket as fitted with OE towbar. Would be interested in have a trickle charge function - what do i need to change to make this possible

24th Jul 2020 5:10pm

lakelander

Member Since: 07 Jan 2017
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 100

finally got round to moving my socket
all went pretty well. used 4mm rivnuts as the drill holes were a little close to the edges of the square cut-out. then put in M4 45mm panhead phillips machine screws. Original screws are M5 but the M4s hold fine. Bought a cheap rivnut tool ( Silverline ) which could only just get access to the recessed plate but got away with it. There are more expensive ones with better reach.

btw -if i want a 13 pin socket - do i need to get a new harness? what would be involved? i guess i would need more wiring up behind the lights?

5th Aug 2020 10:26am

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