 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Side steps/rock sliders -what to do next? |
 
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8582  
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If you like that style of step and want to keep them a long time then the solution will be to remove them, drill some holes in the underside, bead blast paint off, and then hot dip galvanisation.
Choice then is wet paint or powder coated after good surface cleaning. We are Safari Equip rock and tree sliders on our red 110. Been on for well over a decade and extensive used and only rust where I have gouged them so hard on some rocks it has gone through the zinc of the galvanisation. OK they need repainting which is hardly surprising given the abuse they have received. Brendan |
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13th Jul 2018 8:08am |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772  
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You could drill holes in the bottom for drainage then paint the hole, dinotrol the inside thoroughly then stone chip the arms and the bottom half of the step and wax over the stone chip when it’s set. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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13th Jul 2018 8:24am |
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| familymad Member Since: 13 Dec 2011 Location: Bucks Posts: 3481  
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Ditch them would be my suggestion. Poorly made and badly coated. 1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI 1995 90 300TDI |
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13th Jul 2018 8:30am |
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| MR_JAMES Member Since: 10 Oct 2013 Location: ESSEX Posts: 248 
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Mine bubbled up all of a sudden 4 years ago. I attacked the rust with a angle grinder wire wheel, then had them sand blasted and re powdercoated, along with the front bumper.
It depends where you go and how well the metal is before powdercoating.. mine are still ok. 1953 80" 1987 mini city e 2011 90" |
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13th Jul 2018 12:37pm |
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| LandymanStefan Member Since: 30 Aug 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 881 
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Get the new genuine ones under warranty, sell them... then put the money towards the stainless nakatenanga raptor ones and post a picture so I can see how good they look.
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13th Jul 2018 3:40pm |
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| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2665 
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I have the same as you. Mine are now 6 years old, and starting to get tatty. I think all of these OEM ones are like that, and unless you do a thorough job yourself (as Leeds says) they will always look a bit crap after a while.
At some point I will swap mine for some good aftermarket ones, maybe with better protection against side-knocks... Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
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13th Jul 2018 3:52pm |
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| discomog Member Since: 09 May 2015 Location: Notts/Lincs Border Posts: 2532 
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Stefan, I like your idea of selling the genuine ones but not keen on the look of the Raptor ones. I'll definitely go down the stainless route, just a matter of what catches my eye. Defender 90XS SW
Mini Countryman Cooper S Morgan Plus 8 |
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13th Jul 2018 3:55pm |
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| LandymanStefan Member Since: 30 Aug 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 881
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They're similar to oem just less dangley
 Click image to enlarge |
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13th Jul 2018 4:02pm |
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| Sulisuli Member Since: 30 Oct 2016 Location: South west Posts: 4799 
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They are next on my purchase list, stainless steel coated, German made
 2015 HT XS 90
2008 SVX 90 2000 XS TD5 90 |
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13th Jul 2018 5:10pm |
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| LandymanStefan Member Since: 30 Aug 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 881
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They're on my list too along with naka wheel carrier, remap, new suspension etc etc. Spent too much this year on it already with the nas step, headlights, tyres, wheels, and various dinitrol and paint products. Trying to hold back for now, at least until Christmas.
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13th Jul 2018 5:35pm |
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| Sulisuli Member Since: 30 Oct 2016 Location: South west Posts: 4799
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You only live once ha ha do it
2015 HT XS 90
2008 SVX 90 2000 XS TD5 90 |
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13th Jul 2018 8:36pm |
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