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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17598 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I have had reasonable results with a good quality (i.e., not B&Q) stud finder, however if you have foil-backed plasterboard they don't work. The only other technique I know is to roughly locate the studs by tapping the wall, then drill a series of tiny holes to locate the edges of the studs and either fill them or make sure that they are behind whatever you're fitting.
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leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8582 ![]() ![]() |
If you have access from above, i.e. attic is not boarded over you may well be able to locate them from above.
You may have more success trying to locate them from adjoining room, tapping, stud finder small drill etc. Brendan |
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ken Member Since: 18 Aug 2009 Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !! Posts: 4328 ![]() ![]() |
Just grip-fill it to the tiles what could possibly go wrong
![]() Workout were you are fitting it Remove one tile , cut board put borescope though hole or flex cable router poke till it hits the stud do this N S E W you get the picture ![]() |
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JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7908 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I'm no expert, but from practice, I've used a stud finder, then drilled a tiny test hole to double check it is the stud. Once you find one the studs are normally on 16" centres. You can sometimes tap the wall with the handle of a screwdriver and listen for studs which sound more solid than the hollow plasterboard. Trial an error
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the gamekeeper Member Since: 01 Jan 2010 Location: Surrey Posts: 96 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Is it a new build?
Center of studs 600mm, en-suite are there pipes and services above or below in the area you want to install the cabinet. The area you planned to install the unit drill in the grout line of the tiles and find you first stud, if it is a new build the bathroom/wet room areas will be fully ply boarded for future grab rails. |
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OsloBlue Member Since: 14 Jul 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 825 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
If it's newbuild then the spreads should have put a Ply leaf infill between studs behind the boards to just in case you wanted to mount stuff in future.
Generally speaking if your walls are double boarded and stud it should be able to hold the weight of a cabinet, just remember to seal any holes with some waterproof mastic to prevent moisture getting behind your boards and warping your stud. I'm on IG: https://www.instagram.com/osloblue42/ Current: TD5 '110 "Lucinda" Thread here: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62562.html ![]() |
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bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2192 ![]() ![]() |
If its oak make sure you pilot drill every hole at least 2mm smaller than the screw. So if a 5mm screw use a 3mm - 4mm bit to pilot. Also use stainless screws or the oak will bleed black muck. Instagram @defender_ventures
Empire Tuning - Agent |
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need4speed Member Since: 23 Nov 2012 Location: Kilmarnock Posts: 746 ![]() |
Some good answers there guys thanks.
The house is 9 years old so not sure what spec the ensuite will be built to? The cabinet is going above the sink so should be away from any pipework as all the pipes come up from below. 4.6 RV8 110HT |
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OsloBlue Member Since: 14 Jul 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 825 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
You still might want to be careful, if you have a water supply going up/down a storey IE water holding tank, they will generally run it through a room with an existing water supply.
For example Georgian Homes built by costains have the Kitchen directly below the bathroom with a water holding tank above that so they could cut down on the amount of pipework. Even more likely as Modern developers like to run the water through the centre of the house through studwork rather than through a cavity wall to prevent heat loss. (And also a sneaky way in order to build "houses" that can later be split into flats or maisonettes.) I'm on IG: https://www.instagram.com/osloblue42/ Current: TD5 '110 "Lucinda" Thread here: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62562.html ![]() |
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Paulv8 Member Since: 09 Jun 2013 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 618 ![]() ![]() |
Unless it's F heavy, just use a good quality plasterboard fixing. there are several types and we use them to fix kitchen units to walls, and even TVs with no problem. The screw in type are OK, and there are a type that have a metal cage that deforms behind the board when you tighten it. search screwfix for self drill plasterboard fixings, or rawplug hollow wall anchors. V8 90...WIP
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need4speed Member Since: 23 Nov 2012 Location: Kilmarnock Posts: 746 ![]() |
Hmm intersting.
I will find out the weight, report back and maybe you could advise if they would be suitable? 4.6 RV8 110HT |
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Paulv8 Member Since: 09 Jun 2013 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 618 ![]() ![]() |
no worries. you could watch this which explains some of the fixings.
&vl=en-GB V8 90...WIP |
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need4speed Member Since: 23 Nov 2012 Location: Kilmarnock Posts: 746 ![]() |
Like the look of the snap toggle / spring toggle fixings.
However I have tiles to contend with. Guess I need to remove some? Also, knowing my luck I’d hit a stud first time and wonder why the fixings aren’t working! 4.6 RV8 110HT |
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Paulv8 Member Since: 09 Jun 2013 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 618 ![]() ![]() |
the weight is important, but also the method of fixing if you know it. i.e, do you just screw through the back of it, or does it have hooks you fit to the wall first?
a bathroom cabinet is mainly a downward load because they are shallow - so even simple fixings will work quite well. If in doubt, use a spring toggle. if the wall is tiled, so you are going through tiles and plasterboard, this makes a difference to the most suitable fixing as some are designed for plasterboard only V8 90...WIP |
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