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Moneypit



Member Since: 27 Feb 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 271

2004 Defender 110 300 Tdi HT Fuji White
Updated headlamp loom
Has anyone fitted an updated head lamp loom, and did it make any difference? I've fitted crystal units but would love to hear people's views. Thanks
Post #699247 7th Apr 2018 6:58pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
They make a massive difference. If you measure the voltage at the headlight as standard mine was about 11v so with a full 14 going to the light it's much brighter. Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html
Post #699253 7th Apr 2018 7:09pm
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Post #699255 7th Apr 2018 7:11pm
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Vitesse



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Sussex
Posts: 381

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Totally agree. I made my own and it improved the lights no end. Definitely worth it 2015 90 XS Santorini Black
Post #699314 8th Apr 2018 12:11am
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Tdi4



Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Houten
Posts: 513

Netherlands 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
That’s Just a small benefit. The main reason is that the amps are not running through the light switch. Which is notouriously weak. a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover
Post #699326 8th Apr 2018 7:29am
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
To add. I obviously have the genuine Wipac Cristal H4 halogens on the SVX. Having added the Landreiziger loom plus the uprated H4 bulbs sold as accessories by LR themselves (not sure which brand these are), my halogen low beam is way better than the halogens of a family members new Eewok. Big difference really. In addition to taking away the load from the switch, added benefit of my halogens is that they will better melt the snow than any LED headlights.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw
Post #699328 8th Apr 2018 8:10am
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Moneypit



Member Since: 27 Feb 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 271

2004 Defender 110 300 Tdi HT Fuji White
Thanks guys, you're views and recommendations have convinced me too put my hand in my pocket.
Post #699464 8th Apr 2018 7:58pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20314

United Kingdom 
+1 For the Land Reiziger loom, wired to the alternator. Thumbs Up ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #699495 8th Apr 2018 9:40pm
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lohr500



Member Since: 14 Sep 2014
Location: Skipton
Posts: 1316

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
I went ahead and bought a really cheap loom upgrade kit from a Hong Kong seller off ebay earlier this month.

I paid the princely sum of £6.25 using a "Best Offer" bid. Ordered on the 7th April, arrived today.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H4-9003-Ceramic...2749.l2649

I also replaced the standard H4 bulbs with some Ring Xtreme Blue +50% bulbs whilst I had the headlights out.

I took a live feed from the alternator stud as suggested above. The live connection on the loom was quite short so I ended up extending it. There was just enough cable to get to the headlights, mounting the twin relay block in front of the air cleaner box and running the cabling behind the grille to the passenger side headlamp, cable tied to the air con condenser mounting frame.

It could have done with a couple more inches of wiring on both headlamp feeds, but it was possible to fit without modifying.
Each headlamp plug came with its own earth lead and ring connector. These were long enough to attach to the horn mounting bolts on each side of the vehicle.

In true Chinese style , when I extended the live feed, I noticed that whilst the cable appeared to be quite heavy gauge, it was in fact mostly insulation, with quite a thin copper core.

I've no idea if it will prove reliable in the long run, but it works fine and should at least avoid burn out on the column stalk.
Post #702165 21st Apr 2018 3:08pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20314

United Kingdom 
So long as it’s sppropriately fused it should be safe enough too. 👍🏻 ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #702166 21st Apr 2018 3:11pm
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lohr500



Member Since: 14 Sep 2014
Location: Skipton
Posts: 1316

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Yep. Inline fuse was built into the loom and I've got it as close to the alternator stud as practical so should be OK.
Price was so cheap it got me thinking that the relays might be dummies and that all I had bought was an extension lead! But no, they are real Smile
Post #702169 21st Apr 2018 4:01pm
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ChrisCM



Member Since: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Cornwall uk
Posts: 572

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
I fitted a Boomslanger loom and would not recommend it. I had problems with the main supply fuse holder, it was not correctly crimped so had to be replaced. One of the ceramic headlamp bulb connectors cracked and failed so that the dip feed kept coming out of the connector body when pushed on to the bulb. The cable lengths from the relays to the bulb connectors is very short, an extra 100mm would have made it so much easier to instal and, in fact I had to extend the ns cabling to enable me to get the ns headlamp bulb connected (I had to use pliers to push the spade connector onto the headlamp because of the cracked connector). If I was doing it again I’d make my own loom up with heavier cable. 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black.
Post #702314 22nd Apr 2018 9:49am
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sloderby1



Member Since: 08 Feb 2018
Location: Derby
Posts: 20

I worry that the Boomslang loom only has a single wire & fuse in the power feed.
The whole point of a fuse is that it's the weak link.
So one single weak link in the whole of the headlamp circuit.
If the fuse should blow, for example if there's a surge in one of the bulb filaments as it fails, then you have no headlights at all.
As this is a single fuse it has to be large enough for all 4 filaments to be active (flash with dip beam on) so is twice as large as it should be for 'normal' use (dip or main beam).
If I were fitting it I'd at lest remove the main feed bridge between the 2 relays & add an additional fused feed in place of the bridge then use 2 fuses at 20 amp each.
At least that way if one fuse blows you'd have the other beam available.
Post #702349 22nd Apr 2018 1:38pm
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ChrisCM



Member Since: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Cornwall uk
Posts: 572

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
Good points, if (when?) it fails I’ll replace it with a loom I’ve built myself. 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black.
Post #702356 22nd Apr 2018 2:04pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20314

United Kingdom 
The Land Reiziger loom is good. 👍🏻 ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #702357 22nd Apr 2018 2:05pm
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