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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2665

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Hasanyone found an alternate method of reinforcing the mounting? I just went to order the Entreq ones, and the P&P was quoted as something like 50 euros (for a part costing a quarter of that!).

It may be easier just using a short strip of plate (galvanised meccano!) inside the sill (rather than outside like the Entreq one)???

Also it doesn't really need 2 other holes drilled (like the Entreq one) as it's only really preventing the existing mounting from flexing....? If it was inside, the body would stop it from turning...?


Something like this, cut to about 8cm long, with a single hole drilled for the mud flap mount, and mounted inside the sill?
http://www.yourspares.co.uk/parts/ys117064...099FE.aspx Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #90552 22nd Sep 2011 9:38am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17330

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
MartinK wrote:
Hasanyone found an alternate method of reinforcing the mounting?


On my 110 when this happened I fitted a length of extruded aluminium angle approx 5" long to reinforce and repair the broken edge of the body panel. I cleaned the body panel where it fits very thoroughly, bonded it with a silicon adhesive sealant, and reinforced it with two "pop" rivets going upwards though the undamaged section of panel flange and the new angle. The mudflap was then reattached with the machine screw going through the reinforcing angle.

This is completely undiscernable from outside the vehicle and is a lot stronger than the original arrangement. Total cost - about half an hour and under £1 in materials.

The original idea of having the mudflap bracket secured by a single screw into the flange on a thin ally panel is little short of cretinous, no-one in their right mind would expect it to last since the flange will work-harden and break. It is possibly the most moronic bit of "design" on the Defender.

Also, whilst I have the utmost respect for Entreq products, I can't help but think the device shown earlier in this thread is over-engineered. In particular, once the road grot and salt has got inside it and festered against the panel, I would fully expect corrosion issues to become manifest (which is why I bonded the whole join surface between the original panel and repair strip). Not for me, that one!
Post #90577 22nd Sep 2011 12:49pm
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2665

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
blackwolf wrote:
On my 110 when this happened I fitted a length of extruded aluminium angle approx 5" long to reinforce and repair the broken edge of the body panel. I cleaned the body panel where it fits very thoroughly, bonded it with a silicon adhesive sealant, and reinforced it with two "pop" rivets going upwards though the undamaged section of panel flange and the new angle. The mudflap was then reattached with the machine screw going through the reinforcing angle.

This is completely undiscernable from outside the vehicle and is a lot stronger than the original arrangement. Total cost - about half an hour and under £1 in materials.


Thanks Blackwolf - just done this as a preventative measure to my new 110. A 6mm hole in a 4" length of aluminium strip (about 1mm thick - so slightly thicker than the original panel). I'll probably replace the 6mm fastener with Stainless Steel (it's going to collect a lot of road salt, and rust quick I guess), and also a nylock nut to make sure it stays nipped-up.

Job was free, as I found the aluminium strip in the garage.

Lashings of dinitrol on mine. Hopefully this is a problem fixed before it happens Thumbs Up

As a thought - there have been threads here about rear wheelarch liners. Wouldn't it be great if someone built an improved mud flap hangar, with an extended section upwards into the wheelarch? That would stop the mud hitting the rear crossmember... Question Idea Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #95971 24th Oct 2011 2:08pm
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110 UT



Member Since: 10 Nov 2011
Location: Bedford
Posts: 2

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Keswick Green
Could anyone who has had the warranty repair accepted (in the end!) for the bodywork give me some details?

Reference numbers or correspondance - or any info on how you argued it?

Land Rover have kindly refused all liability on mine. The garage is in agreement with them. As a leased vehicle I have to get an approved repair which isn't cheap. It is clearly an inadequate mounting and can't believe that the garage can't at least see it from my point of view.

Similar story to everyone else, offside was swaying in headlights on the way home the other night. Pulled over in the dark pulled it and it snapped the chassis bracket where it had been swaying. It was only the next day I noticed to 25mm piece of bodywork still attached to it. Checked on the other side and sure enough the bodywork was already torn. Phoned LR to get it inspected, by which time the near side one was swaying. Chief mechanic had a look and told me that there was no 'fault' and that LR definately won't cover it. He added that he had not seen this problem before... I'd happily pay for the mud flap which I broke - but I didn't want to admit that up front.

Any help much appreciated.
Colin
Post #99110 10th Nov 2011 10:37am
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
blackwolf wrote:
Also, whilst I have the utmost respect for Entreq products, I can't help but think the device shown earlier in this thread is over-engineered. In particular, once the road grot and salt has got inside it and festered against the panel, I would fully expect corrosion issues to become manifest

Don't know if this is useful but I just fitted the Entreq ones (one wing is already torn on a 6-month-old vehicle!) and I'm very impressed. They are stainless and each come with two tough rubber (silicone?) gaskets to isolate the bracket from the bodywork and ceramic paste for all the bolts (which are also stainless). Probably are over-engineered (I prefer this to the alternatives) and pricey (yes, quite) but I am happy to trade my laziness for expensive quality Whistle Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #99111 10th Nov 2011 10:49am
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T1G UP



Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 3101

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
ZeDefender wrote:
blackwolf wrote:
Also, whilst I have the utmost respect for Entreq products, I can't help but think the device shown earlier in this thread is over-engineered. In particular, once the road grot and salt has got inside it and festered against the panel, I would fully expect corrosion issues to become manifest

Don't know if this is useful but I just fitted the Entreq ones (one wing is already torn on a 6-month-old vehicle!) and I'm very impressed. They are stainless and each come with two tough rubber (silicone?) gaskets to isolate the bracket from the bodywork and ceramic paste for all the bolts (which are also stainless). Probably are over-engineered (I prefer this to the alternatives) and pricey (yes, quite) but I am happy to trade my laziness for expensive quality Whistle


entreq do some sexy SS bits for the defender.....i'll get my order in with a few others to keep postage costs down
Post #99133 10th Nov 2011 1:15pm
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Glynparry25



Member Since: 16 Feb 2009
Location: Miserable Midlands
Posts: 3015

Wales 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Tonga Green
I have just come across this thread. I fixed mine 2 weeks ago. I took some 1mm alloy sheet. cut it into correct length strips, folded it over (so just like the entreq), drilled, painted and then bolted to the rear panel....... cost....... 0 pence and only took about 1hr of my own time.

I would say this is a problem due to the mud flaps being soo rigid.

Glyn Dog Sheep
Post #99177 10th Nov 2011 5:50pm
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Zagato
Site Supporter


Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5012

United Kingdom 
The mudflaps are fine, the problem is bolting the bracket to the wing, the wing clearly shouldn't be used as a structural fixing point for the bracket, it obvious it will chew the thin ali away in no time at all. A proper bracket should have been designed that does not utilise the wing but then it's easier to just bolt the bracket onto the wing lip Rolling Eyes

I'm sure the same happened to my Td5 Confused
Post #99187 10th Nov 2011 6:47pm
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
Glynparry25 wrote:
I have just come across this thread. I fixed mine 2 weeks ago. I took some 1mm alloy sheet. cut it into correct length strips, folded it over (so just like the entreq), drilled, painted and then bolted to the rear panel....... cost....... 0 pence and only took about 1hr of my own time.

I would say this is a problem due to the mud flaps being soo rigid.

Glyn Dog Sheep

Show off Wink Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #99188 10th Nov 2011 6:48pm
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T1G UP



Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 3101

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
so they'd be better off mounted off the rear x member then?
Post #99218 10th Nov 2011 8:32pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
Except that on a 110 they'd probably be too far away from the wheels to be effective. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #99270 10th Nov 2011 10:10pm
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RFT



Member Since: 13 Nov 2010
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 678

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Zermatt Silver
My dealer replaced all mine when the paint flaked off them. LR seem to think black paint can be thrown at steel from 80 paces, but fortunately there are some honest good dealers who are not scared of LR HQ...... The design is rubbish but on a 130 HCPU they are not subject to as much battering and bending moment as on other models.
BTW I use Hillendale in Nelson Lancs. I can not fault them, even the coffee is excellent. 130 Puma HCPU with an Artica 240LR Demountable Camper
Post #99297 11th Nov 2011 1:00am
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Happyoldgit



Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
T1G UP wrote:
so they'd be better off mounted off the rear x member then?


That's where they all were fitted on the Series 109's I've had, they were flexible rubber too and not hard plastic. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.
Post #99315 11th Nov 2011 7:50am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
They'd definitely been re-located by late-Series III production - my '82 Stage 1 had them in the same place as my 110. Perhaps it was a vain attempt to preserve the rear crossmember, although I guess there could be some C&U regulation about positioning? Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #99333 11th Nov 2011 8:56am
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110 UT



Member Since: 10 Nov 2011
Location: Bedford
Posts: 2

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Keswick Green
I've had the pleasure of talking with Land Rover customer services with regards to my damaged bodywork. They have been in touch with the warranty department who have accused me of causing the damage to the vehicle myself. They can see no fault in the fixings...

Thank you LR, the dealership 'involved' has washed their hands of it having informed me of LR decision - leaving me to phone up customer services for an explanation - thank you local stealership, very helpful.


[b]So you may want to be fixing this non-existant fault before you damage your vehicle![/b]



If anyone can share any info on successful warranty claims I would be very grateful!
Post #101771 22nd Nov 2011 9:54pm
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