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dioliahary



Member Since: 18 Jan 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 668

Scotland 
Rustproofing your Land Rover
When you clean the underside of the truck, do you clean the inside of the chassis rails?
If you do how do you know when all the water has gone and the rails are dry ready for the Dinitrol
Going to be doing mine again soon, đź‘Ť
Post #684352 5th Feb 2018 7:20pm
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Devon-Rover



Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: South Devon
Posts: 914

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Aintree Green
I flush the majority with a hose and the drain cleaner attachment on the pressure washer.

If you have a borescope then you can inspect it but else wise it was dead reckoning. When we had temps in the high 20's I washed it and gave it 2 -3 days before treatment was applied and all seemed well. Also can be found on Fb, Ytube, Insta & Twitter @4WDSouthwest
Post #684358 5th Feb 2018 7:44pm
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dioliahary



Member Since: 18 Jan 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 668

Scotland 
Thanks, wasn’t sure about sticking a bath fullof water into the rails, it sitting there and eventually eating my chassis away.
Don’t have a borescope, may well wait till summer and see if we get a spell of hot weather but as I live Manchester then I won’t hold my breath .


Last edited by dioliahary on 5th Feb 2018 9:52pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #684411 5th Feb 2018 9:38pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
It's best to do it in summer as after a few days in the sun and driven in warm weather the chassis rails will have dried out.

The problem this time of year it takes a while to dry out in the cold and then you end up taking it out in the rain again. I suppose one could warm the bottoms of the chassis rails with a blow torch or something, so long as you don't let the flame dwell in one place for too long it shouldn't harm it.

But it won't do any harm to wait a few months until the weather improves, any further rust you get between now and summer will be minimal.
Post #684412 5th Feb 2018 9:40pm
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dioliahary



Member Since: 18 Jan 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 668

Scotland 
đź‘Ťđź‘Ť is it a good idea to drill a couple of drain holes and then grommet after draining?
Post #684418 5th Feb 2018 9:53pm
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dioliahary



Member Since: 18 Jan 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 668

Scotland 
Ooh errr, got myself a borescope and there is a mountain of crud in there. Have to be patient for warmer weather then I shall attack with cleaner and Dinitrol.
Post #685030 8th Feb 2018 2:57pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
If it's full of silt and filth then some drain holes won't hurt. I wouldn't bother grommeting them afterwards. Just make sure you paint the bare metal left after drilling.
Post #685179 8th Feb 2018 11:40pm
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Crofter



Member Since: 19 Feb 2015
Location: Peterhead
Posts: 169

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Baltic Blue
I had my 110 wax-oiled a few years ago although it looks like it needs doing again.

I managed to steam clean the underneath at a friends yard. It was summer at the time and I had it in his shed over night.
Had it wax-oiled a day or two later.

I have been told I would have been better to put it on say a pair of ramps with a heater blowing air on the chassis to get water out of the box sections. What do you think?

A friend has a borescope but it is quite short is it still ok to see down the box sections?

Any ideas how I can do things better or have I made any mistakes?
Post #688647 24th Feb 2018 7:03pm
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JMG



Member Since: 16 Apr 2014
Location: Surrey
Posts: 222

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Drive it round to Zagato’s house and pick it up a week later.
Boom...job done.
Post #688697 24th Feb 2018 11:16pm
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