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karlp606 Member Since: 19 Aug 2021 Location: Hull Posts: 298 |
When you press the unlock/lock button can you hear anything trying to work in the door?
Will the door lock - lock and unlock manually Can you take the door card off? |
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30th Sep 2021 2:39pm |
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sjc501 Member Since: 05 Feb 2018 Location: Glasgow Posts: 148 |
Hi Thanks for reply . I think its pretty much dead at the back .I used to be able to manually push them down and it would lock but now they won't push down .Thanks
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30th Sep 2021 2:50pm |
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karlp606 Member Since: 19 Aug 2021 Location: Hull Posts: 298 |
It should still manually press down.
Take door card off and check the actuator make sure the rod hasnt come off or got caught that is on the locking unit in the door card. Also give everything a good spray with wd40, same thing happend to another forum member a few weeks ago and it the actuator just needed a good old lube! Bit like the wife Sorry couldnt resist!! |
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30th Sep 2021 2:57pm |
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HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 735 |
The pink wire is cut?
If it's both doors though, maybe the fuse is kaputt? |
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1st Oct 2021 4:02am |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372 |
It is almost certain that it will be one or more broken wires in the rubber trunk from the B-post to the door, these fail with monotonous regularity on 110s due to the crass routing of the trunking. Mine used to fail about once a year until I rerouted the trunk to avoid the excessive flexing.
It is also quite possible for both sides to fail at about the same time if both doors get about equal use. |
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1st Oct 2021 7:42am |
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dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
central locking 2.4 07 to 2011 rear side doors
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1st Oct 2021 8:16am |
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sjc501 Member Since: 05 Feb 2018 Location: Glasgow Posts: 148 |
Thanks for Help I will try all of the above .
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1st Oct 2021 9:24am |
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Tdi4 Member Since: 24 Oct 2014 Location: Houten Posts: 513 |
Landrover have used wires that are to stiff so when you repair the broken wire:
a. use (more) flexibele wire, to prevent future problems b. do not just fix the broken wire but replace old wire in the rubber gasket (about 20 cm). So that you have new more flexibel wire in the rubber gasket. a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover |
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1st Oct 2021 10:58am |
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hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2299 |
What did you do here? > 110 XS Double Cab |
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1st Oct 2021 11:30am |
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J1990 Member Since: 24 Aug 2021 Location: South West Posts: 39 |
Complete electrical noob here but wanting to do this fix as my rear offside has stopped working and might as well do both at the same time. Any suggestions on what wire to use as a replacement? I have no idea with regards to what rating of wire I need to be using or what makes for good flexibility - Gotta learn somewhere |
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8th Oct 2021 8:47am |
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karlp606 Member Since: 19 Aug 2021 Location: Hull Posts: 298 |
Could swap the actuators around from a door thats working, then you can check if its wiring or the actuator unit.
Also a good lesson to learn how to unscrew/unclip everything |
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8th Oct 2021 9:03am |
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Tdi4 Member Since: 24 Oct 2014 Location: Houten Posts: 513 |
Most important is that the wire has the same inner diameter. I never use smaller only bigger, that's preventing overheating.
Almost all the wire you can buy is more flexible than what Land Rover is using I just ordered from a quality car webshop about 7 different diameters, all a metre long. a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover |
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8th Oct 2021 9:13am |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372 |
After noting that the rear door wires failed about four or five times more frequently than the fronts, I deduced that the fact that the front door trunk has its ends at different heights and so bends in a relatively gentle "Z" bend whilst the rear door trunk has its ends at the same height and so bends in a sharp "U" bend every time, I rerouted the harness in the rear doors so that the shape mimics that of the fronts. Since then, zero failures in the rear door harnesses. All four of my doors have already had the wire replaced several times, and currently use a high-flexibility test lead wire. Before re-reouting however the rears would still fail with this. I have also modified the harnesses to facilitate repairs if necessary, so that there is spare length in the door allowing me to pull spare length through from the door to the A-post or B-post and re-terminate in the event of a break, avoiding the need to dismantle the door every few months. That being said, since altering the rear doors the incidence of rear door harness failures (remembering that I use the vehicle a lot) has dropped from about 6 to 12 months MTBF to several years. The photo below clearly shows the old and new egress points for the trunk. The rear door wiring on the 4-door and 5-door Defender is another example of such stunningly bad design engineering that you really have to wonder what was going on at Landrover at the time. It beggars belief that something that was so clearly doomed to failure (and so unnecessarily shoddy) could make it into production, when one simple design review involving a grown-up would have identified the fundamental flaw. Simply staggering, and very, very sad. Click image to enlarge |
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8th Oct 2021 10:56am |
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Tdi4 Member Since: 24 Oct 2014 Location: Houten Posts: 513 |
Blackwolf
Haven't thought of that. a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover |
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8th Oct 2021 11:53am |
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