 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Removing Battery Negative |
 
|
|
|
| Sockpuppet Member Since: 17 Sep 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 479  
|
I need to remove my battery negative however the nut is 4 letter tight so when I try to remove it it just moves the terminal around the battery slightly.
Before I get medieval on it just checking they're not one time bolts or left hand thread. I can't just pull it off and wack it on again as I want to use the nut/bolt as a ground for the cable end for some accessories I'm putting in. |
||
12th Feb 2018 8:07pm |
|
| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512 
|
Nope, not one time or left hand thread...
If you do can pull it off, and can loosen the other end also, you can put it in a vice and persuade it to come loose... Cheers, Vincent 1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
||
|
12th Feb 2018 8:22pm |
|
| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
|
Post a photo - yours might not be a standard setup?
|
||
|
13th Feb 2018 11:01am |
|
| Sockpuppet Member Since: 17 Sep 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 479
|
Will post one when I get home. I've had it since new so likely to be a standard fit for a 2013 defender.
|
||
|
13th Feb 2018 11:13am |
|
| Sockpuppet Member Since: 17 Sep 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 479
|
Stole this photo from another thread. But these are the ones I have. I think I'll contact an auto sparky about getting a new terminal fitted.
 Click image to enlarge |
||
|
13th Feb 2018 1:07pm |
|
| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
|
poke the wires for you accessory through the rubber grommet and connect them to the chassis earth.
To remove the battery terminal jamb a spanner behind it to stop it rotating while you crack the nut undone |
||
|
13th Feb 2018 8:15pm |
|
| Sammyboy Member Since: 28 Feb 2017 Location: Hampshire Posts: 121 
|
Why don't you wedge a piece of wood into the 90° recess of the battery casing to stop terminal turning and then try and undo nut with a spanner. Once nut is loose use a flat point screwdriver to open the gap on the terminal then put the flat screwdriver head under terminal and twist to try and lift terminal away from battery post.
Worth a punt if nothing else works!! Discovery 4 HSE Defender 2.2 110 USW XS Ford Kuga AWD Discovery 3 Range Rover P38 Discovery - 300 TDI Discovery - 200TDI |
||
|
13th Feb 2018 8:28pm |
|
| ChrisCM Member Since: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Cornwall uk Posts: 572 
|
Before I had the courage to start cutting off that ‘orrible terminal I actually connected a cable to the gearbox earth and brought it back.through the grommet to a negative busbar in the battery box to use for the various accessories, got round to snipping of the terminal when I fitted a winch and wanted a direct path to the battery -. Wonder why LR went with that design? The on one the + is so much better! 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black. |
||
|
14th Feb 2018 10:17am |
|
| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
|
Connecting to the earth on the chassis is the same as direct to the battery, it's about 30cm of battery cable difference.
|
||
|
14th Feb 2018 12:07pm |
|
| Sockpuppet Member Since: 17 Sep 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 479
|
Thanks all. I've run some 16mm cable to the rear load area under the car. It's sleeved in conduit and sealed at each end with 32mm panel sockets.
I'ts powering a number of items on the rear load in the van for work so chunky cable, hence I want to go to the battery as if i was to exit it the conduit would not longer be water tight. I've also run a number of smaller 2mm wires through for later use. Will go and see an auto electrician today and see what the cost to change to something more substantial. |
||
|
14th Feb 2018 12:28pm |
|
| BogMonster Member Since: 05 Feb 2008 Location: Stanley Posts: 400  
|
Get rid of that terminal, they are rubbish, and fit one with a proper clamp bolt.
If you are drawing a large load it's better to run cable back to the battery than earth via the chassis, if all the connections are sound it is OK to earth elsewhere but it doesn't take much resistance in a corroded connection to create a significant voltage drop under high current conditions. It's the reason virtually every electric winch you will find is wired right back to the battery on both + and - to maximise the voltage at the end of the line. --- 2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi |
||
|
15th Feb 2018 12:04am |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17443 
|
They are useless and hateful things, those terminals, and I have never understood why LR fitted them (I expect they were cheap). Even when they work perfectly they don't clamp the post very well.
You may be able to to undo the terminal if you hold the body with something like slip-joint pliers (what used to be known as water-pump pliers) to stop it turning. |
||
|
15th Feb 2018 8:47am |
|
| Sockpuppet Member Since: 17 Sep 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 479
|
Got the impact wrench on it last night and that shifted it
 |
||
|
15th Feb 2018 2:01pm |
|
| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
|
Did you manage to get a price for the swap? |
||
|
16th Feb 2018 11:27am |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
