 | Home > Td5 > Battery dieing over night |
 
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| Clive Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Littleborough Posts: 467   
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First, I'd want to see that there's not a parasitic drain on it when standing, there shouldn't be any more than a few mA drain with everthing off, to reduce it to not starting overnight I'd say it would need an Amp or two.
Failing that it could well be down to a failing battery, if it's charging at 14.5 volts for a decent time it should be fine if in good condition. |
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5th Dec 2017 5:02pm |
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| CamRSA Member Since: 24 Aug 2016 Location: Devon Posts: 66 
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Is that just a case of checking all the fuses with the volt meter?
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5th Dec 2017 6:12pm |
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| Clive Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Littleborough Posts: 467
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That won't really help, you need to get a current meter in series with one of the battery leads to see how much current is flowing, or a safer way, if you can access one, is to use a DC clamp meter on one of the main cables.
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5th Dec 2017 6:18pm |
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| Devon-Rover Member Since: 22 Jan 2015 Location: South Devon Posts: 917 
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Without it in front of me then it seems you could have more than just a battery. With the battery as low as 10V then I would still expect attempted cranking even solenoid chatter at the attempt. I would look at the starter relay to see if it is still ok.
Once it's running you can check the alternator output and then when off again with some charge in the battery see if there is parasitic drain on the battery. |
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5th Dec 2017 6:49pm |
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| CamRSA Member Since: 24 Aug 2016 Location: Devon Posts: 66
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Eish I don't have access to any of that and its currently dead in my work car park. I'm just going to have to jump it again and try go from there.
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6th Dec 2017 8:36am |
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| Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 732  
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Have you got breakdown cover included with your insurance or separately . If you have they have the equipment to get you going and checked out. Failing that , as you say you will need to jump start. Easy enough then to check voltage at battery with engine running. Anything less than 14+v would indicate problem with the alternator rather than the battery. Batteries do fail early on occasions though.
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6th Dec 2017 9:20am |
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| CamRSA Member Since: 24 Aug 2016 Location: Devon Posts: 66
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Ya luckily I'm in the military so popped into the VMs this morning and they are going to give me a hand and will also get me a battery at trade price if it turns out to be that and not the alternator.
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6th Dec 2017 9:24am |
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| Laurie Member Since: 22 Feb 2008 Location: Sussex, England Posts: 2897  
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Disconnect the battery on one terminal and try an ampmeter between the battery and the lead with everything turned off. The reading should be less than 100 mA.
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6th Dec 2017 12:05pm |
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| CamRSA Member Since: 24 Aug 2016 Location: Devon Posts: 66
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Right so reading last night when off and dead was 10.5v, tonight it was 9.5v prior to jump. Jumped it and got 14.5v while running so hoping that indicates its not the alternator. Turned it off after ragging it for 35min and got 12.5-12.8, I've disconnected the earth and I'm going to reconnect tomorrow and see if it fires up.
If it doesn't then I'm off to find a new battery. Hopefully. Rather than going hunting to find what's draining it. |
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6th Dec 2017 5:38pm |
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| SteveK Member Since: 21 Jan 2015 Location: Bromsgrove Posts: 333 
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That is what you need to do! If there is a drain on the battery, then a new one won't help at all!! |
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6th Dec 2017 10:17pm |
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| Clive Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Littleborough Posts: 467
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^ true ^ - however if the battery is disconnected overnight and it still won't start in the morning, it's a fair indication that it's on the way out.
A charging voltage of over 14 volts is a good sign that the alternator is good too. |
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6th Dec 2017 10:25pm |
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| CamRSA Member Since: 24 Aug 2016 Location: Devon Posts: 66
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So I think I did this? Disconnected earth and checked the live on the battery and the other way round. Had 0 both ways. |
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6th Dec 2017 10:35pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20437
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Sounds like a parasitic load, which has manifested in probably draining the battery and possibly knackering it in the process.
However, I would get the battery properly charged outside of the LR then put it back first. A typical culprit for parasitic battery drain is an incorrectly wired Relay coil. Often associated with spotlights etc. Having a permanently live relay coil can show no sign at all, except for parasitic current drain. Typically about 240mA or similar, no immediate battery drain but over one day or two can be enough to bring it down low enough not to crank. Has there been any recent changes in wiring? What accessories are electrically added non standard? Finally, as mentioned test the current draw with a Multimeter. You should have a mA draw of no more than about 40mA normally around 8 - 18mA typically. If it's over about 50mA you've definitely got parasitic drain, keep your batter disconnected and identify the issue as soon as possible. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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6th Dec 2017 10:36pm |
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| CamRSA Member Since: 24 Aug 2016 Location: Devon Posts: 66
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Ya so its got spots, tracker, cut off switch, a tow hitch light, None recent though. The reverse light went bang recently and took the actual bulb housing with it and that is in the same time line for this battery issue. Big melted mess. Haven't resolved that yet.
I will try a few more tests tomorrow. Really don't want to spend £100 on a battery only to have that one drain as well. |
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6th Dec 2017 10:47pm |
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