 | Home > Technical > Rear Central Door Locks stopped working |
 
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| alantd Member Since: 14 Dec 2008 Location: Northamptonshire Posts: 1513   
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It appears that my rear doors no longer operate with the central locking (puma 110 ‘07). Fronts work fine.
I figured that an actuator had packed in but both have gone at the same time - suspicious. I’ve taken the door apart to test that I’m getting power to the actuator. Only then did I realise that the door contains an extension that connects to the main harness in the A-pillar. 🤭 Putting a voltmeter to the harness connector whilst I trigger the CDL (note: take the alarm sounder fuse out first) seems to indicate something’s happening - temporarily overwhelms the voltmeter and then disconnects as if a pulse has been sent. Any ideas? I found it suspicious that both actuators would go at about the same time. Have I missed something obvious? One that started out as a 2.4 TDCi 110 XS + New Defender 110 First Edition |
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19th Nov 2017 3:39pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772  
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If both sides of rear door are used regularly it will be a break in the wires in the rubber boot between the door and pillar. One may have not been locking for a long while and you've just not noticed. Even on the wife's my15 double cab one wire door loom has been replaced already due to snapped wires in the rubber boot
 Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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19th Nov 2017 4:40pm |
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| alantd Member Since: 14 Dec 2008 Location: Northamptonshire Posts: 1513
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Genius!
Especially @mk1collector. Testing the conductivity along the extension harness shows that 1 wire on each side was broken! Parts ordered from Paddocks (many thanks to their very helpful assistant for tracking down the part number). I'll install at the weekend.  One that started out as a 2.4 TDCi 110 XS
+ New Defender 110 First Edition |
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22nd Nov 2017 12:47pm |
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| annette Member Since: 24 Nov 2017 Location: Tilarán, Costa Rica Posts: 68 
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I wrap then into an old bicylcle inner tube.. cheaper than ordering parts and more reliable
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27th Nov 2017 6:09pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772
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glad it's sorted Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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27th Nov 2017 6:17pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
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Yep i had the same. I just repaired the wiring, as the door harnesses are expensive for what they are. It's funny though on my mini i once had both reversing lights pack up. Being both at the same time i assumed it must obviously be a fuse or the reverse switch. Got the test meter out, check everything only to find both bulbs had blown.  |
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27th Nov 2017 6:27pm |
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| Dean Watson Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Derby Posts: 260 
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Got the same fault on mine,does any one have the part number please
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29th Nov 2017 5:02pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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Just cut the broken wire and splice in a new bit with duraseal butt connectors.
But if you really want to spend about £40 a side, for two bits of wire, and a couple of connectors. LR0163439 is the part number you want, fits both sides. If you want to see just how little you get, this link has a pic. http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/1590...e_defender The rubber conduit can simply be reused, if you repair the harness. It's literally just two wires. |
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29th Nov 2017 6:44pm |
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| NormanD Member Since: 12 Aug 2011 Location: Bristol Posts: 286
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What are the connectors used in this application, also is it possible to increase the wire size?
Any members making their own replacements? NormanD WE191 2015 110 XS Utility 2014 VW Caravelle 180 Executive |
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29th Nov 2017 7:01pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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Just reuse the existing connectors, it's only the wires inside the rubber conduit that break. so chop them off either side of the rubber conduit and spice in a heavier bit of cable. (don't forget to slide the rubber bit back on before joining the cables back together.
Yes i used a slightly heavier gauge of cable for the repair section, it should make it more robust. |
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29th Nov 2017 11:38pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17544 
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The reason that these wretched things fail so frequently is because every time the rear doors are opened and closed the wires are straightened and then folded back into a sharp bend at exactly the same point every time (compare with the front doors, and you'll immediately see why the rears fail so much more often). The wires 'work harden' and fail.
Fitting a thicker wire will not per se increase the life of the wires, but using a more flexible type of wire will help (instrument wire - the kind used for decent quality test leads - works well and will last longer). Last time I replaced mine I installed a length of convoluted nylon tube down the inside of the rubber trunk in the hope that the relative inflexibility of the convoluted tube will stop the wire bending quite so tightly. Whatever you do, expect to replace these wires every so often. Unless you reroute the cable run completely to reduce wire flex, it is likely that these will periodically fail. |
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30th Nov 2017 2:17pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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I think a slightly thicker bit in the problem area would make it last longer before it failed. More flexible wire normally just means the insulation is softer, which might make the wire strands inside it actually fail more quickly.
I thought about fitting some sort of spring loaded contact, like you find on the boot lids of many cars. It's not as if you need the lock actuators to work when the door isn't closed. |
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30th Nov 2017 4:57pm |
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| Doc P Member Since: 03 Apr 2016 Location: Midlands Posts: 565 
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I used some wires from the flex of an old drill and joined them all up using small Wago connectors
Just built in plenty of slack by using longer lengths. |
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30th Nov 2017 5:13pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772
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Fit connectors like on old mondeo or it might have been escort tailgates with pins on one side and a contact on the other so it only works when the door is shut but no wires to break. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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30th Nov 2017 7:05pm |
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