 | Home > In Car Electronics > BlueSea fuse box installs |
 
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| Vogler Member Since: 02 Nov 2014 Location: Brussels Posts: 309   
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I've got one with some basic extra's: spotlights on the roof rack, extra light in the loading area and an extra 12V socket. More stuff will follow (fridge, heater...)
It's located in the back of the battery compartment of our Td5. I should tidy it up, and it's not really worthwile showing pics, but make sure to check the flickr page of landreiziger where they show their proje ts: https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/landreiziger/ Their installments are always very neat and tidy, wish I could reach that level. Joris |
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7th Jan 2017 8:56pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20359 
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Thanks for the link, it's good to see others installs and gives some good ideas for locating things.
As you say, you can add to the circuits when you need to at a later date. So you can future-proof so to speak.  $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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7th Jan 2017 9:01pm |
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| RoddyK05 Member Since: 08 Apr 2015 Location: Inverclyde Posts: 633  
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I'm not sure exactly how these fuse boxes are set up, but I purchased a cheaper version from Amazon which has two bus bars in it. You can have one side permanent live and one side switched if you wish. It's 12 way so plenty room for expansion. On the permanent live side I have the likes or a rear work light and a line to my battery charging connector. The ignition switched side does my heated seats, heated mirrors etc. You mention buying two - one for permanent live one switched, this version might fit the bill, or indeed the blue sea one might have this feature?
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7th Jan 2017 9:24pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20359
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They do indeed have that feature.
Reason I mentioned separate is because I'd like one in the drivers seatbox. (Ignition switched live.) And a permanent live one in the passenger seatbox with the battery. If it wasn't for that I'd go for a split like you suggest. I've already got cables ran to each location for each purpose so makes sense to split into the two locations. As well as there is an ignition switched live in the drivers seat fuse box I can take a switching tap from.
I've not long found this: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/prod...use-holder Which would be ideal to split each load individually and I was going to give each fuse box capacity for 100A which is the Blue Sea fuse box max capacity. I won't need all of that but it's there if I need it. Not worried about cable routing, there are holes and grommets already present to utilise as standard so no need to worry about that. At the moment I've got a tap in the back of the lighter socket for sat nav, a plug in it for something else. As well as permanent feeds direct to battery box. And as I'm about to add some more things on a temp basis, I think soon will be a good time to tidy things up and centralise everything. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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7th Jan 2017 9:36pm |
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| Likeomg Member Since: 29 Jun 2012 Location: Lake District / Newcastle Posts: 2640 
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watching this...
need to sort the wiring out as i've got a lot of auxiliary's now off the battery - 2 led bars, 2 big amps, drl bumper etc.. my only concern is, will i be able to attach safely the amplifier's wiring to the box? i.e. are connections big enough... |
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8th Jan 2017 11:12am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20359
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Likeomg - Probably not, it's better in this one instance to run an Amp directly off the battery.
That way you can use gold ring terminals and have the best power transfer. I have an in-line ANL fuse holder, those AGU ones are best avoided. But for everything else the BlueSea boxes are an ideal solution, this is just the way I prefer it. There is as you are probably aware a bolt on the positive battery post nearest the trans tunnel right on the top. There is also a pre-threadded hole the opposite side I have found a lot of suitable. size for that too. But yes, personally Audio feeds and power feeds for all other supplies is the only exception that I'll still keep separate. Not quite sure as to when I'll proceed with this yet, hopefully in a couple of months as I've already doesn't rather a lot. 
I'll be sure to take pics when I do though. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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8th Jan 2017 12:11pm |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 
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I have a bluesea, 12 way 100Amp box, and ran a 20amp light bar thru it with no problems, together with a webasto heater, rigid fog lights, cruise control, additional 12v sockets, fridge socket. Bluesea works as expected.
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8th Jan 2017 1:03pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20359
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Steve (BPman) - Did you get the one with negative bus too? $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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8th Jan 2017 1:50pm |
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| Toxic_Avenger Member Since: 07 Jan 2017 Location: New South Wales Posts: 6  
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I've installed a few extra power units in my 90, trying to make use of every spare square cm of space I can muster.
Blue sea systems 12 fuse block- behind LHS rear speaker panel in load space 
Blue se systems safety hub 150 block in LHS front seat box- crammed behind the dual optima / devon 4x4 tray
Also installed a cubby box mod what the expedition centre (Mulgo) in Australia calls his 'Ex-Box'. Within this, I built a platform to hold 2x 6 fuse Blue fuse blocks as well. 1 fuse block is IGN switched, and its feed is run off a 150A relay linked into the fuse block (which was relocated from under RHS seat to within this box). Below the platform is all the other tomfoolery to go with the setup.
I've run all fuse blocks direct back to the batteries, via connection direct to the battery posts, or via a 600A AUX power bus bar within the cubby box mod. For battery connections, winch power, I have a bit of a fetish for 50mm2 cable (0 gauge). Fusing is Bussman resetable / switchable breakers. |
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8th Jan 2017 8:19pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20359
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Thanks for the pics, just what I was looking for for ideas.
Was looking at 0 gauge the other day, I liked atolead sproflex but sadly it seems to have disappeared off the market. 
A lot of this CCA rubbish cable about now instead of pure OFC. Tending to lean towards Durite for many an item now. Does anyone know of an area to tap for an ignition live feed from the underseat fuse box? (Haven't done any testing yet.) I'm hoping to use something there as a switching trigger for a 100a or their abouts relay. I was going to go from battery with 210a cable to midi / mini fuse box near the battery. Fused @ 200A With branch feeds fused @ 100a each from the same unit. Then take 2x feeds with 110a cable from there, 1x permanent live (battery box BlueSea fuse box.) 1x permanent live to the drivers seatbox. (Where OE undserseat fuse box is located.) To supply a feed for an ignition switched BlueSea fuse box. Fit a 100a / 120a or similar relay triggered from somewhere ignition switched from the underseat fuse box. This will give me a 100a supply of ignition switch feeds from a second BlueSea fuse box. With this I can then get rid on the tap on the lighter socket I have for sat nav, and take out the lighter plug all the time I run for my EL wire inverter and put these straight to the ignition switched BlueSea fuse box in the drivers seatbox with ignition switched BlueSea fuse box. The perm live fuse box in the battery box I can use then as well rather than loads of in-line fuses and ring terminals directly affixed to battery + post. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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8th Jan 2017 8:41pm |
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| Toxic_Avenger Member Since: 07 Jan 2017 Location: New South Wales Posts: 6
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That's the idea bud!
I use welding cable, it's heat and UV rated, carries a heap of current (in all the good beefy sizes), is very flexible, and usually available off the spool by the meter at a welding supply shop. I can't remember where I got my IGN switched signal from, but it was back-tapped off a wire on the factory fuse block. Just probe wires until you find one with +12V when the IGN is ON. Simples. The relay draws mA, so not normally a risk for interfering with the circuit it is tapped into. I'm still to put a fuse block under the hood, but will likely try to put something near the heater box on the LHS of vehicle. It will be a simple setup with a few unfused terminals for attaching basic accessories or jerry-rigging anything as needed. More likely than not run some headlight relays and LED light bars on the roof rack. Power feed will utilise 16mm2 cable, and I have these parts in waiting for this task:
Click image to enlarge |
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9th Jan 2017 9:20am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20359
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Large relays draw on switching coil only around 300mA, so not any load really at all.
$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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9th Jan 2017 11:27am |
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| Chopperone Member Since: 13 Nov 2016 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 396
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I have decided to go at least one better than a Blue sea system.
In the next month I intend to fit a logic board to handle my additional electrics. Using an ignition sensing split charge relay to charge an additional battery. Then with a programmable logic board I can instantly tell if either a relay OR a fuse has died by way of flashing leds. Because the board is programmable I can then ask it to say put main beam on followed by whatever delay I want before my led spotlights kick in thus not overloading the alternator. The board is also ignition sensing as required. Just need to think of a few trick things to programme into it next. Guy May your life be like toilet paper ; long & useful. |
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14th Jan 2017 11:47pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20359
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How is it ignition sensing purely by voltage cut in and cut off?
If so doesn't that mean the engine has to be running and isn't purely ignition switched its self? (Alternator charging current, only with engine running.) Or am I missing something? This was the issue I found with the VSR at least. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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14th Jan 2017 11:51pm |
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